supercut469
ArboristSite Lurker
Hello everyone. I've been browsing this forum for a while but just signed up. I'm a casual chainsaw user. My dad owns some property around his cottage that we try to keep clean (i.e. cut up windfall for firewood and cut down dead trees). I am also thinking that sometime in the next five years I will be a first time house buyer and plan to heat with and cut my own wood from my grandfather's woodlot (mixed hardwood and softwood).
My last saw was a 20 or so year old Husky 454 which my dad got for free from a coworker and it served us well but was finally retired. It needed a piston and ring and bar/chain/drive sprocket and pull cord and I decided it was just time to buy something newer instead of fixing all that so I sold it (not running) at a yard sale for a few bucks.
I saw an MTD homeowner saw at Canadian Tire for 179$ and said to myself "how bad could that be, it must work. Most of the user problems with these homeowner box store saws are probably user problems anyway and I'm half handy with tools" so I bought it. Oops.
First off this saw came with an 18 inch bar but could only pull about 6 inches of the bar through our maples we have at the cottage. I was a little disappointed but realized that for the price difference between this and a real great saw (I had recently borrowed a husky 353 from my friend's dad for the weekend.... oh man talk about a perfect saw!!!) I guess that was understandable.
Next off after 4 hours of cutting the saw died and wouldn't restart. It had spark and the same amount of compression as before but it seemed starved for fuel as the primer bulb would not fill with fuel no matter how many times I pressed it (NOT a leak fuel cap though as the tank would still release a pressurized hiss sound when I opened it). I bet it was just a plugged filter (which is still odd... I was using clean fresh fuel mix in a clean jerry can which I also use for our trimmer with no problems) but since the saw was brand new I took it back and they replaced it with a new one.
Next time out I had the chain pop off on me although I had just tightened it about 10 minutes ago. The drive sprocket bent a few of the drive links so the chain wouldn't go back into the bar. I realize that all I needed was a new chain but since the saw was so new I went back to crappy tire. luckily the manager on duty that day was a friend of our family and she knows my dad and I both buy a lot of stuff from their store so she offered me a full cash refund which I graciously accepted (big thanks to her for this... this was an exception to store policy and she did not have to do that!).
So now I'm daydreaming of investing some money in a saw I will have for a long time (10+ years). My criteria are:
-Will probably be used about 25 hours most years
-95% of cutting is hardwood (maple) 8 inch diameter and less
-5% is cutting up bigger (2 foot diameter) maples
-Want to be able to do maintainance myself to save money. I am comfortable filing chain, changing spark plug, cleaning air filter, changing fuel filter, and am dedicated to only running fresh fuel mix (less than a month old) and would drain the tank and run the carb dry for lay ups lasting longer than 4 weeks.
-Price is negotiable. I'm just finishing college and ain't rich but also don't mind paying for a quality product.
I have dreams at night about my friend's Husky 353 but to be honest I think that's probably a little out of my price range. Maybe a used 353 if it still had lots of compression? Here's a question for you guys - I often read that the husky 353 is better than the 350 with one of the main reasons being the magnesium crankcase.... isn't this only a factor to someone who will put enough miles on a saw (i.e. use nearly every day) to need to rebuilt the bottom end?
I am planning on checking my 2 local stihl dealers and 2 local husky shops as well as the 1 Jonsered dealer in this neck of the woods as well as a couple small engine shops who sell used equipment but are not dealers. Any other shops are too far away to really consider. I would consider a brand new or used saw. If I could find something that would pull a 14 inch bar through hardwood I'm sure it would do what I want it to. What engine displacement do you think I'm looking at? I used the 353 husky to cut through a 2 foot maple and I would say I can actually tolerate a slower saw with less power if I can save money that way.
Offhand it seems tempting to buy a Stihl ms170 or the husky 137 off the shelf. I'm a sucker for a deal and if someone wanted to throw in an extra chain and some files I'ld be happy as a pig in poop. I'ld also prefer non-safety chain, it just seems more efficient to me and I think I understand what causes kickback and how to avoid it.
thoughts?
My last saw was a 20 or so year old Husky 454 which my dad got for free from a coworker and it served us well but was finally retired. It needed a piston and ring and bar/chain/drive sprocket and pull cord and I decided it was just time to buy something newer instead of fixing all that so I sold it (not running) at a yard sale for a few bucks.
I saw an MTD homeowner saw at Canadian Tire for 179$ and said to myself "how bad could that be, it must work. Most of the user problems with these homeowner box store saws are probably user problems anyway and I'm half handy with tools" so I bought it. Oops.
First off this saw came with an 18 inch bar but could only pull about 6 inches of the bar through our maples we have at the cottage. I was a little disappointed but realized that for the price difference between this and a real great saw (I had recently borrowed a husky 353 from my friend's dad for the weekend.... oh man talk about a perfect saw!!!) I guess that was understandable.
Next off after 4 hours of cutting the saw died and wouldn't restart. It had spark and the same amount of compression as before but it seemed starved for fuel as the primer bulb would not fill with fuel no matter how many times I pressed it (NOT a leak fuel cap though as the tank would still release a pressurized hiss sound when I opened it). I bet it was just a plugged filter (which is still odd... I was using clean fresh fuel mix in a clean jerry can which I also use for our trimmer with no problems) but since the saw was brand new I took it back and they replaced it with a new one.
Next time out I had the chain pop off on me although I had just tightened it about 10 minutes ago. The drive sprocket bent a few of the drive links so the chain wouldn't go back into the bar. I realize that all I needed was a new chain but since the saw was so new I went back to crappy tire. luckily the manager on duty that day was a friend of our family and she knows my dad and I both buy a lot of stuff from their store so she offered me a full cash refund which I graciously accepted (big thanks to her for this... this was an exception to store policy and she did not have to do that!).
So now I'm daydreaming of investing some money in a saw I will have for a long time (10+ years). My criteria are:
-Will probably be used about 25 hours most years
-95% of cutting is hardwood (maple) 8 inch diameter and less
-5% is cutting up bigger (2 foot diameter) maples
-Want to be able to do maintainance myself to save money. I am comfortable filing chain, changing spark plug, cleaning air filter, changing fuel filter, and am dedicated to only running fresh fuel mix (less than a month old) and would drain the tank and run the carb dry for lay ups lasting longer than 4 weeks.
-Price is negotiable. I'm just finishing college and ain't rich but also don't mind paying for a quality product.
I have dreams at night about my friend's Husky 353 but to be honest I think that's probably a little out of my price range. Maybe a used 353 if it still had lots of compression? Here's a question for you guys - I often read that the husky 353 is better than the 350 with one of the main reasons being the magnesium crankcase.... isn't this only a factor to someone who will put enough miles on a saw (i.e. use nearly every day) to need to rebuilt the bottom end?
I am planning on checking my 2 local stihl dealers and 2 local husky shops as well as the 1 Jonsered dealer in this neck of the woods as well as a couple small engine shops who sell used equipment but are not dealers. Any other shops are too far away to really consider. I would consider a brand new or used saw. If I could find something that would pull a 14 inch bar through hardwood I'm sure it would do what I want it to. What engine displacement do you think I'm looking at? I used the 353 husky to cut through a 2 foot maple and I would say I can actually tolerate a slower saw with less power if I can save money that way.
Offhand it seems tempting to buy a Stihl ms170 or the husky 137 off the shelf. I'm a sucker for a deal and if someone wanted to throw in an extra chain and some files I'ld be happy as a pig in poop. I'ld also prefer non-safety chain, it just seems more efficient to me and I think I understand what causes kickback and how to avoid it.
thoughts?