How big a Stihl to run a 36" bar?

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Stationed in Chicopee or Westfield?

I grew up close to the Pitt and it is is going under with political corruption, drugs, gangs , and social program leaches. Still nice up in the nearby hills though.
Chicopee, I was I&I staff with MG platoon, formerly 25th Mar. TOW platoon. Pissfield is a dump to be sure, but man the woods around there. Lot like Maine, western mass, that's why I dug it. THe towns are all run down former mill towns full of oxy and ugly, but three feet in any direction outside "city" limits and its woods and farms. We just have a little more room and a little less commie up here (Amherst is in the west and it's gawdawful).

Well I guess I will scrap ALL of my bars over 25" since said experts have deemed them useless. I can just use a Wildthing with 16" bar for any firewood I encounter. When I do encounter a 50 or 60 inch tree, I will just plan to spend a month or more cutting it rather than a few days. After all, I only need a 20" bar right? Maybe the PNW saw shops should all be sued for selling longer bars than the east coast wood cutters say we need.

Now as for your tirade. First these comments in this thread are intended for and addressed to a guy on the east coast and his needs (as opined by other east coasters, many of whom also cut a lit of wood up here). Your Mileage may Vary out there (although I doubt every square inch of residential area in the PNW is covered nut to butt with 8' diameter trees). And for most homeowners a Wild Thing really will suffice, and outside of the chainsaw nut realm, most of them would agree. If they or you or the OP WANT a better, bigger, faster saws go nuts. Whatcha getting all fired up for? We can all be friends here.
 
I have two bars for bigger saws, 25"/28" for everyday power and ease of cutting, then a big bar if needed.
28" and 36" ES light bars are a good combo for a ported 90cc

We tend to run 20" on 70cc and 25"-30" on 90cc stock saws for aussie trees
 
Nah...let the short bar guys have their fun. They like to cut and they have all the time in the world. On level ground they can get away with a short bar and doing the Swedish Stump Dance. If they'd rather jump around the tree, going from side to side and trying to match their cuts, and taking twice as long to get the tree on the ground as it should really take, let 'em. They're having a good time and getting some exercise playing at what we do for a living. No harm in that.

A long bar is good for limbing, too. Much less stooping and strain on my back. Is the saw nose heavy? Of course. It's supposed to be nose heavy. I want that bar tip down there where the work is. Also the weight difference between a 20" bar and a 36" bar shouldn't worry a guy who's in any kind of shape to begin with.

Me, I'd rather stand in one place when I'm falling. I can face it, back it up, drop it, and go on to the next tree. That takes a longer bar, at least where I cut wood.
It's just a personal choice dictated by real world conditions. No point in running around the tree like a monkey trying to **** a football if you don't have to.
i never did think foot balls were all that cute :D
 
Now as for your tirade. First these comments in this thread are intended for and addressed to a guy on the east coast and his needs (as opined by other east coasters, many of whom also cut a lit of wood up here). Your Mileage may Vary out there (although I doubt every square inch of residential area in the PNW is covered nut to butt with 8' diameter trees). And for most homeowners a Wild Thing really will suffice, and outside of the chainsaw nut realm, most of them would agree. If they or you or the OP WANT a better, bigger, faster saws go nuts. Whatcha getting all fired up for? We can all be friends here.
OP didint ask about what saw he needs in general he asked about saws to run a big bar on
 
Now as for your tirade. First these comments in this thread are intended for and addressed to a guy on the east coast and his needs (as opined by other east coasters, many of whom also cut a lit of wood up here). Your Mileage may Vary out there (although I doubt every square inch of residential area in the PNW is covered nut to butt with 8' diameter trees). And for most homeowners a Wild Thing really will suffice, and outside of the chainsaw nut realm, most of them would agree. If they or you or the OP WANT a better, bigger, faster saws go nuts. Whatcha getting all fired up for? We can all be friends here.

You've been here since Tuesday and you're already lecturing people? There are things on AS that most of us will never agree on...long bar, short bar...what saw is best, what oil to use....the list goes on forever.
We disagree with each other a lot but that's okay. Really, it is. Better learn to deal with it.
 
Well you know, come to think of it, a 20" bar on a 90cc saw might be ok if its running 1/2" or 9/16 pitch chain. I bought a couple of 090g's set up for 1/2 running 25" bars but I find .404 on 60 + inch bars to be of more use on such a saw.
 
Well fellas, good news for you, bad for me. Since I mainly cut firewood and don't live in the PNW, I apparently have no need for a saw with a bar larger than a 20". So I will be selling my 090, 088, 076, 066, 064, and 2 046's. And to Kent, all of these saws will pull a 32", but you may not buy any of them because you are a weekend warrior who cuts firewood, and you don't live on the west coast.
:rolleyes: :buttkick:
 
image.jpg
Nah...let the short bar guys have their fun. They like to cut and they have all the time in the world. On level ground they can get away with a short bar and doing the Swedish Stump Dance. If they'd rather jump around the tree, going from side to side and trying to match their cuts, and taking twice as long to get the tree on the ground as it should really take, let 'em. They're having a good time and getting some exercise playing at what we do for a living. No harm in that.

A long bar is good for limbing, too. Much less stooping and strain on my back. Is the saw nose heavy? Of course. It's supposed to be nose heavy. I want that bar tip down there where the work is. Also the weight difference between a 20" bar and a 36" bar shouldn't worry a guy who's in any kind of shape to begin with.

Me, I'd rather stand in one place when I'm falling. I can face it, back it up, drop it, and go on to the next tree. That takes a longer bar, at least where I cut wood.
It's just a personal choice dictated by real world conditions. No point in running around the tree like a monkey trying to **** a football if you don't have to.
Anybody can sit back and mouth the words Bob, but all we've seen from you is a lot of BS.

 
Ok, let me ask the short bar only proponents this. If you come across a snag, bear trap, serious leaner, pre tension/stressed tree, or log suspended on its side, and you expect it could snap back and bite you, would you not prefer a bar with an extra foot, or more, of length so as to keep you back from the hazard thereby buying you distance in the name of safety? This is common in our PNW woods with dense undergrowth and steep hills. A fair amount of blowdowns and fenceposting, all in a days fun.
 
Yes it is Bob, when I wake up in the morning I'm sober, but when you wake up in the morning your still fat, short and ugly. Lol


Hey, I got a falling job for you if you're interested. A friend of mine is looking for cutters who can hustle and get some wood on the ground. Burn salvage, real steep, rocky and timber too big for the feller-bunchers. Heavy emphasis on saving out everything possible. Bring your own tools including jacks, run your own numbers, and provide your own insurance and transportation. They'll need references from your former employers...you know, guys that you've actually cut big wood for.

But, got to warn, they'll expect you to produce. They're more interested in how you cut than how you run your mouth. They'll also want you to stay "til the job is over. Oh, one other thing...you have to show up every day. On time. Sober.
 

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