How do I dry and prepare a round to make a table

[jdhacker]

Not to get off topic, but I am wondering for my self. If you cut cookies from stumps, in to say two inches thick then cut in to 6,8 or 10 inch boards sealed on the ends would that help.

 

[BobL]

Not to get off topic, but I am wondering for my self. If you cut cookies from stumps, in to say two inches thick then cut in to 6,8 or 10 inch boards sealed on the ends would that help.

It's not clear how you can cut a cookie that is 2" thick into "6,8 or 10 inch boards"

 

[jdhacker]

sorry 2 in thick 6,8,10 in wide

 

[betterbuilt]

Not to get off topic, but I am wondering for my self. If you cut cookies from stumps, in to say two inches thick then cut in to 6,8 or 10 inch boards sealed on the ends would that help.

I saw this earlier and didn't understand either. Are you saying cut a round(cookie) and then cut the cookie into smaller pieces. If that's what your saying it seems like it defeats the purpose of cutting a round in the first place. I'm still thinking I'm not understanding. A picture would help a lot.

 

[jdhacker]

Yes that is what im saying, I know cookies check bad. But some times the wood in them is just amazing. Im saying cut a 2in thick round then rip in to short boards, dry it then rejoin.

 

[jpj6780]

Yes that is what im saying, I know cookies check bad. But some times the wood in them is just amazing. Im saying cut a 2in thick round then rip in to short boards, dry it then rejoin.

I don't think you could ever get them back together without jointing the glue faces and then the rings wouldn't line up. They would certainly warp- that's why they split.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

 

[waldtricki]

Sounds like a ton of work. And Jp is right that they will likely warp even more.

Now i am assuming you want to use these as nicely finished pieces for furniture or decoration (ie plant stands, small table tops clocks etc)

Things that will increase the chance of success of cutting cookies w/o cracking
1. Saw Log into 1.5-2 foot lengths (this is not static, just what i did that worked could be longer or slightly shorter)
2. Paint / seal the ends as soon as possible. Use multiple coats if using regular paint. As log dries if it begins to show cracks-fill em w/sealer or paint (repeat)
3. Store Wood out of direct sunlight
4. Patience
5. Keep Diameter of log under 10" (again not set in stone, just my experience)
6. Try to forget about log (see #4) - which is just code for an excuse to do some more MILLING!
7. Wait 3-5 years to Cut cookies. Cut them sooner and i haven't had much luck.
8. Some species just wont work well or may need bark removed to keep wood from getting punky
9. Cut cookies no thinner than 2.5 inches at your own risk (I've take them down to 1.5" final thickness with deodar cedar and other stable woods)
10. Seal and finish them as soon as possible after cutting . This is critical *minimizing surface cracks though very very small ones are acceptable. End grain soaks up a lot of finish - More solvent when applying the first coat will penetrate deeper and i will decrease solvent as my coats progress - oil/varnish/ turp or spirits mixture
11. Luck
12. Don't do final sawing/ planing in warm weather or in a heated shop especially if they air dried outside 50 deg f is probably safe.

Chime in if you have things to add to list. There may already be a running list on this topic but I am not certain.

-Ben

 

[BobL]

Just a reminder that the the op is referring to " . . . . rounds including the 60 inch butt cut." and wants to make a table.

 

[Dave Boyt]

Not to get off topic, but I am wondering for my self. If you cut cookies from stumps, in to say two inches thick then cut in to 6,8 or 10 inch boards sealed on the ends would that help.

Problem with your scheme is that you are making parallel cuts, and the cracks are radial, so the "board" that contains the pith would still likely crack. Plus the eye will pick up the straight lines in the finished piece, no matter how careful you are. Cutting it into four pie-shaped pieces and re-gluing them when dry would work much better. Each piece will have slightly less than a 90 degree angle, so it will be a real challenge to get a perfect fit. How good are you?

 

[KTM640]

About 4 years ago I took a ~42inch diameter cookie from an Ash tree stump. 5-6 inches thick and used latex paint on both sides. So far one check in the form of a semi circle about 4 inches long. I'm hoping that the latex allowed a more uniform drying across the entire round thus minimizing checking. My 2cents.

 

[Mike Van]

I've got a maple log here, about 5 ft diameter. I'm going to cut some 4" disks off it soon. There's a hollow right in the center, about 6 to 8 inches diameter, I don't know if this will help with the checks or not. Will let you know..................

 

[4x4American]

Alls you gotta do is take a ratchet strap put it tight around the circumference of the cookie, then call it good. just make the ratchet strap part of it, maybe give it a coat of brown, or use a camouflage one. Maybe throw on some anchorseal.

 

[shootingarts]

Replying to a thread getting a little age on it but shrinkage is something I have to battle a lot lathe turning. Working with a full round, radial shrinkage is about ten percent. Means that 60" oak "cookie" is trying to open up a five to six inch crack to releave stress at the outside edge. More likely multiple cracks to releave stress more evenly but when you measure them all they will total close to six inches, maybe more. There are things to buy to try to stabilize the wood but they would cost a fortune and would still be of dubious value. I might have a line on some PEG pretty cheap if an acquaintance has enough for this job, he has had it forever since turners got away from it long ago for the most part. I suspect he would part with what he has considerably below market. Doubt it works but might be the cheapest magic goop to lay hands on. I think it is in blocks that you melt or dissolve in something else, never used it myself and decided I wasn't interested after doing some research. I don't remember now but aside from general issues finishing and something the size you are working with probably cracking anyway I think there are some health risks working with PEG.

Joe Barringer sells some magic stuff for pool cue wood that has to be very stable that is supposed to have few health risks, might be worth trying to contact him. He sells cue components, a little searching would probably locate him, don't want to list his business here since he isn't a sponsor. I haven't tried the new stuff, still have plenty of the old stuff that wants to kill you that is full of iso-cyanates.

My best guess would be to let it crack, use the bowties or similar to keep it from warping too badly, then epoxy the cracks. Leave the epoxy a little low then use brass shavings and maybe the turquoise inlace to fill the part of the cracks that will be seen. The bowties are the traditional bowl and hollow vessel repair in Hawaii. A highly respected turner there charges more for a piece the more bowties it has!

Good luck, a sixty inch red oak table top would be gorgeous if you manage to complete it.

Hu