How do you use "gunning" marks on a saw?

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Notice in my picture that the small notch is a wider angle (about 90 degrees) than the MGGAN (about 60 degrees).

 

[The Best GM]

That is a big goofy notch! The thought of cutting an oak or sugar like that makes me crindge. The tre would be half cut up buy the time murph notches her. The angle should be enough that it does not meet the botom cut before the tree is almost on the ground. Murphys got to stop being soooo by the book man, that just is soo anyoing.

What is the tuantline hitch anyways? I have never been to keen an formal names and formal training. Ive probably seen it 1 thousand times but never told THIS IS a TAUNTLINE. This is the only place ive been where people think training is any equal to expieriance, Not that he doesn't have expieriance, its just some times when some thing says DO NO tOUCH you gotta touch it to find the true path.

 

[murphy4trees]

Well I Am glad I finally got something named after me... Just think of it .... the open faced notch has now been renamed after me!!!!
What an honor

That said with a smile I wholeheartedly disagree with MM's, GM's and Treeco's position.... It may be that we have different perspectives because we work and get paid in different situations... Its been many over a decade since I sold firewood.... and never made much money at it anyhow... and getting paid for a log happens every blue moon or so....

I get paid for precision felling... dropping trees with control in tight areas....

And mike... that diagram is total spin...

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i don't do it; but Murph's idea of taking an opener face lower (by not needing lower space for bottom face; gives more leverage of pull agianst a slightly lower C.o.B., and more wood etc. i think, and powers the stump over in one move; is pretty efficient, good mechanichs, depending on cutting time. i think cutting bottom face up is harder than cutting top face down. Now at what angle the saw hitting the fiber comes into play, and at what angle it is efficient to do so , may be another matter.



i think that quite logically, the only travel on the hinge needed is the smallest constraint of:

When the arching overcomes the flexibility of the fibers(brittleness)

When the leveraged load overcomes the hinge(strength)

or the allowable arc of movement between lean and arrival(arc).

Any more open in the face than this smallest of the 3 constraints, is superfluous(?). The first thing that gives, determines the point where the arch on hinge stops; the lean determines the starting positon, arc needed, the distance between.

On the allowable arc, 90 degrees would only be needed for falling from straight vertical to straight horizontal. Any lean towards target would need less degrees of arc; could use less opened face. Then, the stop would be when the head hit firmly, perhaps lessening needed arc space from that side too.

But it would only need that much of the alllowable arc, if it had enough strength and flexability to hold on that long against the ever increasing leveraged load. Few hinges can hang on to a spar parallel to the ground/ most leveraged position like one of Daniels recent pix in another thread, so the allowable arc on hinge needed is usally less than 90 degrees without being a back leaner IMLHO. In the air, a different story; sometimes go towards reaching for a 180, in proper wood and support line Aussie's faceless trick into the less loaded axis to the side of the branch works well here too i think.

Sometimes closing before needed changes the direction of the force from down forward to throwing forward into the face and up to thump ground less hard with butt end i think.

8.)Weather or not, looks of disdain would rain from being caught with such a monstrocity of hinge/face machine would kinda depend on if the observer knew off/applied to the theories and practices of the international champions and recognized , accreditated sources mentioned.

And Daniel's make better wheel chocks too:Monkey:

Or something like that
:alien:

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Originally posted by murphy4trees

And mike... that diagram is total spin...

Here, is this attachment more accurate?

How can you fell with percision if the best you can do is 60 or 70 degrees, sometimes you need the the notch to hold all the way down.
After about 45 degrees from level, increasing the angle of the top cut has exponentially diminishing increases in the openness of the notch.
This means you need to have your bottom cut at an angle to make it an open notch.
Doing both cuts at about 45 degrees from level, gives you a full 90 degrees of notch, something you can't get with your namesake (MGGAN).

 

[MasterBlaster]

Hey, I'm a 'precision feller', too!

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Another 5 star thread

Brutha Daniel; i been trying to stand up fer ye; please come forward and answer the accusations as to/per had on record in Dan vs. Dan. What of this loss of usable allowable arc in such a face as you make

If tree is leaning to 1 oclock before felling (bout 30 deg.), do degrees movement + 90 = 120 degrees; well anyway, we expect more control than stands in mute testimony to where you are trying to take us.

Do you have a better picture than this that we can more fairly appraise your skills in your favour, to give you an even chance? It outdoes more than a few i've done; so don't take me wrong i'm just trying to learn!

Of course if you find it esier to hinge part of it down slowly to the side on trailer or something, or just not rock out......... ahhh never mind......!



:alien:

 

[murphy4trees]

Gotta go on estimates.....

I"LL BE BAACK--------------------------

 

[murphy4trees]

Since this thread got off-track... see this one

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?threadid=14902

 

[a_lopa]

thev only reason that tree has stayed on the stump is cause its full of water, and the notch as you say in usa