How I exactly sharpen chains

[GoBigRed]

A larger diameter file changes the bevel angle of the cutter top plate, and the profile of the side plate.

If you just want a larger gullet, you can achieve that with additional file passes.

The gullet does not just pass / carry chips: it also functions as a chip breaker, when cross-cutting, to reduce clogging.
Philbert

Good info. Thanks brother.

 

[MOOSETRAX]

Great thread. subd.

 

[Del_]

What ever size file that will fit under the top cutting edge to the top of the links. Then use the file n guide to sharpen the top cutting edge.

No.

 

[davidwyby]

No.

Teach us.

 

[Huskybill]

Open up the gullet under the top cutting edge the use a smaller file with the file n guide to put a stiffer arc on the cutting edge, then in the field one pass with the file n guide restores the top cutting edge,

 

[BerkshirePaws]

Good lighting helps. A fundamental problem is that we are usually filing/ grinding on the underside of each cutter. I have used a small mirror to help inspect the edges. Some race chain guys file in fixtures which hold the cutters in a position like rounding the nose of a guide bar, and provides more visibility.

I was surprised that there was not more discussion about the way that this fixture supports the cutters for filing: tilted back so the user can see the progress as they file:
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/vert-i-file-chain-sharpening-fixture.352037/
Philbert

Interesting idea the vert-i-file fixture. I'm wondering, is there a fixture to file a chain off the saw?

 

[Philbert]

Interesting idea the vert-i-file fixture. I'm wondering, is there a fixture to file a chain off the saw?

He’s always working on stuff, but no finished product that I know of. Not something that would be too hard to improvise, especially if you are making it for a limited number of chain types / loop lengths.

Philbert

 

[trains]

here is a chain, full chisel stihl .404 that was sharpened previously with a grinder.
I re did the chain with the basic stihl guide and 5.5mm file, then did the rakers with the progressive raker guide.

Note how the basic file guide holds the file to the tooth and how its a different shape from the grinder, this sets the top plate angle etc.
it needed at least 4 passes to get the file to shape the tooth correctly, and yes the file also rode on the bit in the gullet, so I removed the gullet first with the file free hand, checked the rakers with the progressive raker guide, and took a tiny bit off them so the guide would sit correctly positioned on the top of the tooth and raker, and then did the rest of the tooth.




see the gullet where the excess material has been left from the bench grinder process.



then I free handed with the file out of the guide to tidy up the gullet, and put the file with the file guide to the cutter.



you can see that there is still an area in the middle of the tooth, from the top plate to the gullet that still has the grinding wheel profile in it, but as I continue to sharpen the chain, that will go away.

hope that helps.

 

[Philbert]

Note how the basic file guide holds the file to the tooth and how its a different shape from the grinder,

If they are standard aluminum oxide grinding wheels, they can be profiled, and the angles adjusted, to match the file, or desired, final cutter profile more closely.

Philbert

 

[Huskybill]

here is a chain, full chisel stihl .404 that was sharpened previously with a grinder.
I re did the chain with the basic stihl guide and 5.5mm file, then did the rakers with the progressive raker guide.

Note how the basic file guide holds the file to the tooth and how its a different shape from the grinder, this sets the top plate angle etc.
it needed at least 4 passes to get the file to shape the tooth correctly, and yes the file also rode on the bit in the gullet, so I removed the gullet first with the file free hand, checked the rakers with the progressive raker guide, and took a tiny bit off them so the guide would sit correctly positioned on the top of the tooth and raker, and then did the rest of the tooth.

View attachment 953231


see the gullet where the excess material has been left from the bench grinder process.
View attachment 953232


then I free handed with the file out of the guide to tidy up the gullet, and put the file with the file guide to the cutter.
View attachment 953233

View attachment 953234
you can see that there is still an area in the middle of the tooth, from the top plate to the gullet that still has the grinding wheel profile in it, but as I continue to sharpen the chain, that will go away.

hope that helps.

You are spot on the way I do it too. Open up the gullet with that fish hook cutting edge, nothing matches the way it cuts bravo.

 

[trains]

If they are standard aluminum oxide grinding wheels, they can be profiled, and the angles adjusted, to match the file, or desired, final cutter profile more closely.

Philbert

Yep, agree, but in this case, I dont think that was done.

 

[trains]

You are spot on the way I do it too. Open up the gullet with that fish hook cutting edge, nothing matches the way it cuts bravo.

On some of my chains, I go for much less hook, as the wood is so hard, the higher hook just gets damaged so quickly, and i put very little wood in the trailer, and it takes quite a lot of filling to remove quite a bit of tooth, to get past the damaged area to give a good sharp point again.

but for softer wood, or green wood, its a lightsabre


edited to add
Less hook for hard timber, cuts well, smooth cut, and edge lasts well, and puts lots of wood in the trailer before re sharpening, usual disclaimer about hitting hidden things that break or damage teeth .





This cuts fine in green gum too, but if I was to spend a day on pine, I would either reprofile the cutter, or run a different chain with more hook.

 

[BerkshirePaws]

Quick question, how long should a file last. Round 7/32 or 3/16.

 

[Del_]

Quick question, how long should a file last. Round 7/32 or 3/16.

Short or long strokes?

 

[Del_]

On some of my chains, I go for much less hook, as the wood is so hard, the higher hook just gets damaged so quickly, and i put very little wood in the trailer, and it takes quite a lot of filling to remove quite a bit of tooth, to get past the damaged area to give a good sharp point again.

but for softer wood, or green wood, its a lightsabre


edited to add
Less hook for hard timber, cuts well, smooth cut, and edge lasts well, and puts lots of wood in the trailer before re sharpening, usual disclaimer about hitting hidden things that break or damage teeth .

View attachment 953251

View attachment 953252

This cuts fine in green gum too, but if I was to spend a day on pine, I would either reprofile the cutter, or run a different chain with more hook.

Great photos and information that you're posting here.

Are some of the teeth on that chain chipper and some chisel?

Thanks.

 

[BerkshirePaws]

Short or long strokes?

Long and slow and then I finish up the depth gages with short fast strokes.
But really, how many chains should I be able to sharpen with a file? Three? Thirty? Just wondering if I’m trying to overwork a file. For most part I’m using Oregon files.

 

[trains]

Great photos and information that you're posting here.

Are some of the teeth on that chain chipper and some chisel?

Thanks.

In that post, the chain is 3/8 063 semi chisel.

Sorry, should have mentioned that, as its different to the chain in my earlier post above it.

 

[Philbert]

But really, how many chains should I be able to sharpen with a file?

Depends on a lot of factors. Think of a file like a piece of sandpaper: when it stops cutting, it’s time to replace it.

You can optimize the life of a file, by keeping it clean, and by protecting the brittle, sharp cutting edges when not in use. Don’t let it bang around on a work surface, or in a tool box. Wrap it in a soft rag or piece of paper, or slip it into a plastic soda straw. It is a cutting tool.

Philbert

 

[Okie294life]

Well, as they say, different stokes for different folks. I have not used the hooskie. But I get a good hook with the Pferd system. But each Pferd unit is built for a specific file size. If you use the wrong unit, you will not get good results. The 13/64 size is optimum for the RS chain. RM chain requires a smaller file.

I like this file have it in stihl flavor. Since I’m one of the 90% that won’t ever learn how to file a chain correctly it’s awesome. I Have a hf grinder, but I’ll probably never use it again.

 

[rogue60]

here is a chain, full chisel stihl .404 that was sharpened previously with a grinder.
I re did the chain with the basic stihl guide and 5.5mm file, then did the rakers with the progressive raker guide.

Note how the basic file guide holds the file to the tooth and how its a different shape from the grinder, this sets the top plate angle etc.
it needed at least 4 passes to get the file to shape the tooth correctly, and yes the file also rode on the bit in the gullet, so I removed the gullet first with the file free hand, checked the rakers with the progressive raker guide, and took a tiny bit off them so the guide would sit correctly positioned on the top of the tooth and raker, and then did the rest of the tooth.

View attachment 953231


see the gullet where the excess material has been left from the bench grinder process.
View attachment 953232


then I free handed with the file out of the guide to tidy up the gullet, and put the file with the file guide to the cutter.
View attachment 953233

View attachment 953234
you can see that there is still an area in the middle of the tooth, from the top plate to the gullet that still has the grinding wheel profile in it, but as I continue to sharpen the chain, that will go away.

hope that helps.

Yeah that's aggressive .404 need a saw with balls to pull that in some our hardwoods.
Apart from hook you can also add durability by bringing the top plate angle forward can mix and match.