Not a bad idea, but keep on mind you must hold it wide open long enough for the RPM to stabalise.
How long can you keep the throttle wide open without load?
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Tony Mayhew
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I have owned two Ford F-150 4x4 pick up trucks, 1999,2000 and have had the pleasure of changing the sparkplugs out a couple of times. And I can assure you of this! The longer you wait before changing or regapping them you are creating a s%#t storm the longer you wait! The 2 valve engines are bullet proof if taken care of properly, especially if you get one from the Windsor plant enstead of the romeo plant. What caused it to launch the sparkplug through the hood was that the recommended sparkplug torque was only 18 Ft pounds of torque! That was not enough to keep them planted, I never had that problem due to common sense told me that wasn't enough! People were afraid that they were going to strip the threads because there weren't but a couple of turns of threads to work with. But I never had a problem with going around 25-28 ft pounds and when removing them your best to warm the engine first and make sure your extension is centered over the plug and give it a quick jerk and act like you want them to come out and it might be tight because they are going to be! The back two are the real kick in the Jimmy's because they have cabin forward and the front of the cab is directly over the back two. The 2valve good engine, the 3valve engine is one of the worst engines ford ever made! Thanks to the VVT timing.
Yes and for your eyes, brain and finger to react. I have a 0.5 sec refresh rate tach and I recon I rev it for 1 or 1.5 seconds. Obviously warm the saw up beforehand and start rich or at the factory settings to avoid damage. I always tune a touch rich, as long as the spark plugs look OK, that's fine for me.
You have to hold it open for longer than 1.5 seconds.
Most of the spark plugs flying out were from hammer mechanics over torqueing the plugs. Can't even begin to count the number of inserts we installed on the 2 valve heads at the machine shop let alone in chassis. the 3 valve engines had a lot of their own issues, the stupid plug design being one of the worst I've ever seen, coupled with just a few threads for engagement was a recipe for disaster. Again, hammer mechanics didn't help the situation at all in either case.
Redmax puts out detailed tuning instructions for alot of their stuff. Happen to be going through my tool box this morning and found this... Yes, 6 minutes at WOT..
I've not owned a Ford, but I would say that most people, mechanics included way over tighten sparkplug. You really only need to just start to compress the crush washer and you are good. I use a torque wrench and anti seize with all aluminum head auto engines.
If you are running at max speed very lean, yes you might have an issue. But it should make you wonder enough to richen it or fix the problem.
Even if you on the lean said there is still no load on the engine and because it's wide open you have the full effect of the flywheel fan cooling.
And your right. One should be able to tell if your rich or lean by the way it sounds and feels, but most guys just cant.
You cant seriously mean 6 minutes at WOT for revs to stabilise during tuning? As per my last post, with a warmed up saw and a fast tach all I've ever done is a second or two. I would be worried about damage, wasting fuel and the neighbours thinking I had fallen asleep with my finger on the trigger.
Us m not day that's what I do. Just posting what Redmax says to do.
1 or 2 seconds isn't enough typically. You need to hold it a bit as the rpm will drift around.
