how much bend in a bar

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buck futter

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I have picked up a powermatch bar that had a bad tip and when my colleagues attempted a repair they bent the snot out of the bar itself. The company was tossing it so I grabbed it to see if I could bring it back. Well I got it very close to being dead on, but ther is a slight visual flaw if you look down the length of the bar. So my question is how much bend is to much to have it run straight?
Or do I just have to try it out?

Thanks

Lucky
 
Not good, the metal in the bar has been fatigued from the bending. The bend will eat up the chain.

It depends on what type of ppe you use. Sinse there is no way to tell exactly which direction the shrapnell will fly I suggest the following outfit.

http://home.comcast.net/~1tinkingshawn/grind.gif

Rid'm cowboy, the piston is firing 200 times a second, you gotta be quick...
If you actually do this it would be the only time I suggest you work alone. Until the guide and loop wear enough to create the expected event and you start over with new. You could always throw it away and spare the chain?
 
A twist is harder to live with than a simple lateral bend. Laminated bars often snap spot welds when you attempt straightening. Sometimes the hardened rail surfaces will crack also. No bend is desireable since it worsens the liklihood of derailing. I'd say try to get it within 1/16 inch over the bar length. Twisted- forget it.

Frank
 
I think that PPE is for sale at Baileys for $12,000.00 It's worth it though.

* Dimentional tuning (wont shatter when "warping")
* Self welding alloy cell construction
* Doplar heads-up-display warns of mass heading directly at you
* 0db dampening only allows 400 - 1200 hz by-pass for voice recognition. (fm radio optional)
* No grip electric activated gloves. Connects to your coil and when activated silicon based fabric becomes rigid, holding on to whatever the user holds.
* Military quality GPS with man down transponder.

note; Light Sabres will no longer be offered as they tend to cotterize while defending against bear. "The ppe is the only thing surviving these incidents" a company spokesman said. "We do still offer the holster".
 
Thanks Crofter,
Looks like I'm golden then.
It's kinda what I thought but I like to hear it from someone else

Lucky
 
I appologize if I'm wrong here, but, I was taught you never even try that. "It will never cut straight" "You'll end up with a huge scar on your cheek" "The boogerman will put oil in the fishtank"...

Ticks me off, I've thrown plenty away.

Thanks Lucky.
 
Bugfart; It has been discussed here quite a bit in the past about straightening methods. Main strength and brutality without any technique is sure not in order. Large circular saws and band saws are commonly reworked and they see a lot more dynamic loading than a saw bar. You do have to know what you are doing though, and sharp kinks or twists might indeed junk it. Laminated bars, as I mentioned dont respond well. You must always bend beyond just straightening, and then back, or the bar will probably return towards crooked after a bit of use. If the bar is already a good bit warn, and your time is valuable, chucking it might be the wisest. Many have been satisfactorily straightened though.
 
A well placed blow or two with a 8 lb sledge to the bar on a good flat stump, bowed side down,........ will help straighten and set the bar , carefull not to hit the rails and hit on the bow.
 
Chainsawmaster. That is the word I was looking for "set". Prevent the bend from returning. I mentioned the twisted situation as being a problem. There the centre of the bend line is diagonal across the bar and a simple swat will straighten it to a quick look with the eye but it will still have problems in a bar burried cut where the tip will try to cut slightly to one side and the rear of the bar will tend to the other. You can get half way down and reach a bind. Correcting that bend takes a selective straightening with the force applied diagonally exactly in line with the bend. That is the Uri Geller laying on of hands! lol!
 
I've used some pretty bent up bars in a pinch. You thnk they'd really cut crooked and bind up, but they don't, they just cut a crooked kerf, so if your trying to make stools out of the logs they might rock a bit. Then when you're all drunk sitting on the stool, it could rock and make you drop your beer, so it is a safety issue.
 
Hey, I once straightened an iron bar (2" diameter solid) by heating the crap out of it and cooling the bend with an ice-cube.
It was a digging bar run over by a truck. I wasn't concerned about distempering the metal on that but I'll take the Ahhhnold approach here in the future. Thanks for the tips guys!
 
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