How often do you plung cut when felling?

[hseII]

sorry I missed your post.
I wasn't very clear a all.
I was talking about a couple different methods of 'two cutting'. one was about using a single cut undercut on the small trees under 6" than have been arched permenitly and snow load spruce conifers of same size. It still has to be done fast. They snap with a great deal more force with an undercut as soon as you hit the back cut and it can kick the saw out of your hands. Doesn't feel so good on the hands. Anyway the saw cerf undercut helps this in that Region. Site specific anyway.
Not really relevant for advice here in those terms.

The other is a modified triangle or Diamond cut or what they call Coos Bay
kind of like the hand saw days.
Now your cuts are 90° off the lean with a strip of holding wood from top to bottom. If its got a side lean then I may try with the side undercut. If I know its going to break and I don't have a pusher tree to keep it sidehill then I'll go with the two cut and let it peel off down the hill. i always cut into the back of the stump so it can't rip the back of the stump out.The problem with going with the lean is it is usually hard to reach and it likely won't take an undercut there in many cases with big trees that often can have rot and they have contorted already not to mention the barber chair problem.

I don’t cut the wood you do, but I assume with the above situation the heart wood is normally compromised?


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[Westboastfaller]

@hseII
Its a mixed bag. Many grow down the hill. I couple % lean up the hill hard with cedar. If the heart is gone then the wind with twist them and they with sink lower I mean you can put side undercut in maybe but its just going to rip off and head down anyway.Many are doubles with one snipe leaning down hard so you have to deal with that first. Reach could be an issue too due to where you can stand as well hight and direction of the fork. Often they could be 40 60ft above you leaning off a higher bank or over a rock face and you have to deal with it first or you can't fall your next tree. Find a way up or maybe its obvious it can't be done at that time so you can only go one side direction with your felling face until you are far enough away. That's a problem if you have dominant trees leaning towards the 'would be' hang up unless you have dominant trees to counter them? Then you have uphill leaners full size trees so you have to do the same until you get a hole.

Lots of problem solving so I don't spend much time droping a POS that has limited options. lot of the danger stuff is
pretty modified from conventional knowledge and training.
Back straping isn't always a stable option alone with fractured old growth trees that may have got brushed hard. Still work your way cutting from front to the back but sometimes go without the undercut
Some are scarry with the undercut falling downhill when you can't fall side because of a boundary its leaning to. Lots of
extra back pull when you start removing its base. Some Ceder just have a series of vains
on the high side that have separated from the tree over time.
You have a half a dozen of them about 7-8" thick and those are your triggers. work you way to the back and they they start popping on their own. Ground looks like a big crater.

 

[madhatte]

I can not match Nate's eloquence.

I aims to please.