How to free-up rusty chain?

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Bad idea. Heating the links with a torch will ruin the chain. The links are heat treated and tempered. Heat from the torch will ruin that tempering and the links will be softened. It does not take much to change the temper, just 400 degrees or so depending on what the steel is. Soft links will stretch and break.

It only takes a moment with the torch to change the oils viscosity, nowhere near 400 degrees, maybe 200
:cheers:
 
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20 Mule Team Natural Borax

The best product I have ever used to clean chains! And its cheap.

add some current to the item being soaked and it will "blue" your metal products. (actually blacken them)

In the day when trapping was more popular, the trick around here was boiling the traps in Black Walnut husks.

The steel came out rust free and black, supposedly masked the smell.
 
add some current to the item being soaked and it will "blue" your metal products. (actually blacken them)

In the day when trapping was more popular, the trick around here was boiling the traps in Black Walnut husks.

The steel came out rust free and black, supposedly masked the smell.

Please explain the process. Thanks
Igpoe:cheers:
 
I used to do my traps in walnut husks. Here is the process, get a bunch of black walnuts and throw them in to a large pot of water. (just the husks are needed by why bother separating them...)

For those that aren't familiar, a black walnut in the tree is about golf ball size. There is a very hard shelled nut inside the outer green husk. (this husk turns black and oily looking after they fall on the ground) The walnut itself is smaller than a ping pong ball and requires a hammer blow to crack.

Anyway, boil that mixture and put your traps in it while continuing to boil it for a few hours. When you turn off the heat and let it cool down, pull out the traps and they are all a black color.

I don't remember anymore why I used to do this. I think it kept the traps from rusting. When traps are sold new in the store, they are plain steel with a light coating of oil on them. this process for sure removes the oil and preserves them somewhat. So I suppose it had scent benefits as well as not leaving the traps shiny.

It's just what everyone did. Wish I had better science to show why...
 
Soak the chain in Kroil, ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil and it will free a rusted chain.

Or

Get a bottle of George Di_ckel # 12 and a bottle of Coke. Pour the Coke in a container with your chain and let it sit. Meanwhile sit back and enjoy the Sourmash on the rocks. The Coke will loose the chain nicely and George D. will loosen your joints. :msp_thumbup:


bob
 
Soak the chain in Kroil, ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil and it will free a rusted chain.

Or

Get a bottle of George Di_ckel # 12 and a bottle of Coke. Pour the Coke in a container with your chain and let it sit. Meanwhile sit back and enjoy the Sourmash on the rocks. The Coke will loose the chain nicely and George D. will loosen your joints. :msp_thumbup:


bob

I'm more than familiar with the process with the sourmash, but how does the coke act on the rust? Would Pepsi be better? Dr. Pepper?
:cheers:
 
Yes there was study on this and acetone/ATF beat all the expensive snake oil products.

Cheap too as used ATF can be had for free:msp_smile:

the best way to make ATF really work for you is to get it hot so it penetrates the chain better. I use strait atf in an old cast iron pot on my wood stove or on an open fire. Heat the ATF up and throw the chains in. The hot atf will eat through all the rust and corosion in a couple hours. I have a burn barrel that I set my cast iron pot over. The cast iron pots can be had off CL or at a garage sale for $10+ used ATF = $10 solution to really rusty chains. Plus the ATF will grease the old cast iron pot so it doesn't rust itself.
 
ATF has a lot of detergent in it, I use it to clean motorcycle parts that have a lot of sludge and parts that are sensitive to solvents.

Great for rebuilding fork suspensions.
 
I still trap. It's really a three step process, four if they are new.

Clean them. Wash the grease and such off them.

Rust them. So the dye will soak in (won't soak into bare clean steel)

Dye them. Your choice of dye, I still use logwood and such.

Wax them. This protects them from rust, and helps keep the scent down.

As for rusty chains, vinegar is my favorite deruster for anything I can drop into a coffee can sized tub. Molasses sticks something fierce. Electrolysis is nifty, but I don't find it to be any better than vinegar.
 
Fellow trapper I see! :) I use that aswell! Sometimes we wax aswell! That just covers the tip of rust prevention. Last year was a bummer here. Barely any activity!

My way is

100% diesel soak for as long as it takes to free up a few links. Then, filter through a cloth, and move the chain around by hand in the "filtered diesel" If that doesnt work. Well, 50% atf, 25% motor oil, and then 25% diesel to thin it down abit, and then set it in the sun. It will heat it, but not get near hot enough to combust...

If that doesnt work. I take it through the shops USC... and if no success then?.. I chuck it.
 
i typically use kroil but am looking at the actone/atf for future. recently got a saw with a frozen up chain. was able to get all the links but one free. soaked it in kroil for weeks; still no joy. figure its gonna go in the scrap metal box cause not sure i'd ever trust it.
 
i typically use kroil but am looking at the actone/atf for future. recently got a saw with a frozen up chain. was able to get all the links but one free. soaked it in kroil for weeks; still no joy. figure its gonna go in the scrap metal box cause not sure i'd ever trust it.
Don't scrap that chain. Put it in a bar slot and notice where the bad link sticks up. Put oil on it and hit it (hard) with a piece of wood. I use an old hammer handle but broom stick or most any wood will work. When you hit it down the link will be free or almost so. Put it on a saw and run it. It will probably get loose right away so re-adjust. Don't be afraid of it. It won't break.
 
I posted earlier in this thread that I just throw rusted chains in the bottom of my gunk tank and let them lie there for months and check them later. Well, I was looking for a misplaced part this weekend and discovered two chains I had forgotten about. Pulled them out and got almost all of the links freed up just by working them by hand. Threw them back in. They will be good enough to run on a bar for the final cleaning and then I'll sharpen them. These are chains I found in a half filled bucket of water lying in the woods of an area I was cleaning up for a friend. Seems a shame people don't take better care of their assets. They are dull but have lots of tooth left or they would have already been in my scrap bin. I'm sure i have a saw and bar they will fit although I don't know what size they are yet.

What I have used (not recommended for saw chains) to clean up small rusted parts such as large quantities of screws or nails is a concrete mixer. Just dump them all in and tumble them for 20 minutes (dry). works like a charm. I had acquired boxes of nails that someone left outside and they got pretty rusted. This made them useable again.
 
I posted earlier in this thread that I just throw rusted chains in the bottom of my gunk tank and let them lie there for months and check them later. Well, I was looking for a misplaced part this weekend and discovered two chains I had forgotten about. Pulled them out and got almost all of the links freed up just by working them by hand. Threw them back in. They will be good enough to run on a bar for the final cleaning and then I'll sharpen them. These are chains I found in a half filled bucket of water lying in the woods of an area I was cleaning up for a friend. Seems a shame people don't take better care of their assets. They are dull but have lots of tooth left or they would have already been in my scrap bin. I'm sure i have a saw and bar they will fit although I don't know what size they are yet.

What I have used (not recommended for saw chains) to clean up small rusted parts such as large quantities of screws or nails is a concrete mixer. Just dump them all in and tumble them for 20 minutes (dry). works like a charm. I had acquired boxes of nails that someone left outside and they got pretty rusted. This made them useable again.

The rust will make the nails stick better. :hmm3grin2orange:
I like that suggestion though.
 
I posted earlier in this thread that I just throw rusted chains in the bottom of my gunk tank and let them lie there for months and check them later. Well, I was looking for a misplaced part this weekend and discovered two chains I had forgotten about. Pulled them out and got almost all of the links freed up just by working them by hand. Threw them back in. They will be good enough to run on a bar for the final cleaning and then I'll sharpen them. These are chains I found in a half filled bucket of water lying in the woods of an area I was cleaning up for a friend. Seems a shame people don't take better care of their assets. They are dull but have lots of tooth left or they would have already been in my scrap bin. I'm sure i have a saw and bar they will fit although I don't know what size they are yet.

What I have used (not recommended for saw chains) to clean up small rusted parts such as large quantities of screws or nails is a concrete mixer. Just dump them all in and tumble them for 20 minutes (dry). works like a charm. I had acquired boxes of nails that someone left outside and they got pretty rusted. This made them useable again.

Excellent tip on the rusty nails! I have a couple buckets of them I was wondering what to do with!
 
If its too far gon to fit on the saw, hook a rope to it and bang it on something. Once you can get it around the rail and sprocket run the saw and tighten the rail systematicly. After it is loose, cut wood. It will come right back. I have gotten untroubled in the woods before and had to use a chain that was a solid coil of rust...
 
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