How to I chainsaw this fallen tree?

[Henk]

A tree came down on my farm and crushed the fence. I want to remove the tree and repair the fence. But the tree is heavy and dangerous. Where do I make the first cut? How do i go about this? I have no experience.

http://www.providentliving.org.nz/how-do-i-chainsaw-this-tree/
I have added numbers so you can use them as reference points.
I'd appreciate experienced help.

 

[Matt J Leppek]

What is the diameter of the tree? If it's anything over 16 inches I would highly recommend calling a local tree service. Heavy, dangerous, and no experience can be bad news quick. With the tree on uneven ground, it's imperative to know the forces acting on it, otherwise you could wind up underneath it.

If you do decide to call someone, I would ask them if they would mind showing you where the forces are acting on the tree in that situation and how they would go about removing it. If they don't want to explain it or tell you they are going to wing it or something along those lines, hire someone else.

When they come to do the work, watch how they do it. It wouldn't hurt to take a video of them working either, great reference later on if you want a refresher. I've learned lots of great stuff by watching videos online (and a lot of not so great stuff).

Good luck and stay safe!

 

[Henk]

Thanks Matt. I am still hoping someone can tell me the forces acting upon the tree in the sketch.

 

[Matt J Leppek]

The forces are on 1 and 14.

How steep is the hill?

 

[Gypo Logger]

Start at the crown and work towards the stump limbing as you go, cuting it into stove lengths if you need the wood. Hard to give good advice when Im not there. Generaly, its pretty cut and dried, but its a dangerous game and lots can happen.

 

[Trx250r180]

How big is your tractor,all farmers have tractors dont they ? Drag it to flat ground and cut it up, maybe use a farmboss 290 stihl,great firewood saw

 

[BC WetCoast]

What I would do is cut 14 first and get the overhanging crown out of the way.

How solid is the connection at the stump? That would affect the decision. Depending on the width of the bench (flat area) and connection at the stump, I would either cut at 1 next and let the piece slide or undercut at 12. If the bench is short and the tree is steep, then cut 1, if the bench is wide then cut 12,

All the wood beyond 14 has tension on the top and compression on the bottom. Between 1 and 14, it's opposite, the tension is on the bottom and compression on the top. That's why you would undercut (cut up from bottom) if you were to cut at 12.

If the log is lying at anyway cross hill (even a little) then make sure you stand on the uphill side of the log when you cut. If it were to roll, then it would roll away from you.

 

[Henk]

The forces are on 1 and 14.

How steep is the hill?

Not sure how to answer that. As a ratio?

 

[Henk]

How big is your tractor,all farmers have tractors dont they ? Drag it to flat ground and cut it up, maybe use a farmboss 290 stihl,great firewood saw

No tractor. Just a bicycle.

 

[Henk]

What I would do is cut 14 first and get the overhanging crown out of the way.

How solid is the connection at the stump? That would affect the decision. Depending on the width of the bench (flat area) and connection at the stump, I would either cut at 1 next and let the piece slide or undercut at 12. If the bench is short and the tree is steep, then cut 1, if the bench is wide then cut 12,

All the wood beyond 14 has tension on the top and compression on the bottom. Between 1 and 14, it's opposite, the tension is on the bottom and compression on the top. That's why you would undercut (cut up from bottom) if you were to cut at 12.

If the log is lying at anyway cross hill (even a little) then make sure you stand on the uphill side of the log when you cut. If it were to roll, then it would roll away from you.

Good connection at the stump. It probably will not slide.
The bench is wide enough to drive a digger through. Or a tractor. I have neither.
So if I am sure the tree will not slide, undercutting at 12 might be an OK option, as the pressure is from above, right?
I'll make sure it does not roll onto me if I do this. There is no sideways slope.

 

[Henk]

The forces are on 1 and 14.

How steep is the hill?

Too steep to stand on and use a chainsaw.

 

[Henk]

I'll need to climb up and check the roots again to see how secure the root is and be sure it will not break away.

 

[Henk]

Would a photo help? It's night in New Zealand and 13 hours till sunlight as it is winter. So I'll take a photo in the morning if needed.

 

[Creeker]

If you haven't got a tractor or something to tow the tree then you don't need to make the flat area under the tree navigable by vehicles.

On the premise that repairing the fence is the priority, 1/Cut from the top at "14". don't touch the wires, cut if necessary, pull out of way and strain up
later (gripples work well for later tightening)
2/ Cut another 12 or 15" off, say round "12 or 13" on diagram - 1st part of this cut from the top, not > say 1/4 of the way through, then finish by cutting upwards from under the log, don't let it roll on you (as per previous post.)

If this seems overly hard then get someone who knows what they are doing, no point in getting hurt for a bit of fence work.

My antennae are up for this thread

Matt said in his first sentence....."What is the diameter of the tree?"

You replied..................................."Thanks Matt. I am still hoping someone can tell me the forces acting upon the tree in the sketch."

Thereby not answering his question which was very obviously an important factor, and your reference to ratios..........come on mate, fair suck of the sav ?

 

[KenJax Tree]

I believe you guys are being trolled....a farmer without a tractor??, dodging questions, it reeks of brush ape

 

[Spellfeller]

I'll bite.

First of all, you have some nice digital sketching skills! Second, if you're this "Brush Ape" trollish guy, that would be unfortunate. I'll assume you are the two-wheeled, tractor-less Kiwi farmer you say you are.

Almost all the danger of this situation is in the tree's position. That's why folks are telling you to move it if at all possible.

To that end, IMHO, this kit (200' version)--or the NZ equivalent--is one of the best possible purchases the amateur tree worker can buy. Drag the tree down the hill, drag it ACROSS the bench, just try to get it so the whole log--and not just the two ends--is supported. If the tree weighs more than 1500# (the capacity of the rope puller), follow BCWetCoast's advice and cut at 14, letting the top drop down the hill.

I know you're probably in a hurry to get the fence repaired but probably NOT in a hurry to get to the ER. Educating yourself beyond the opinions on an Interwebz forum would be wise. (Not that folks here aren't well-meaning and experienced!) A good understanding of tension and compression is critical, if you can't get the log moved. This book is the best place to start. It covers both getting the tree safely on the ground and then cutting it up (bucking).

Good luck! Take it slow, and if it feels wrong, go back to the drawing board!

 

[jefflovstrom]

,

 

[Trx250r180]

Have you tried the sloping back cut before ? Aka farmer cut ? You see a sloped cut at the stump will help it slide off and shoot down the hill to flat ground.if your bicycle has a low gear you can use it to skid the log to safe ground also, you have ropes right ?

 

[KenJax Tree]

you have ropes right ?

I'm guessing only 6# test fishing line...will that work?

 

[Brushpile]

No professional here, but, I'd cut from 14 (the fence) down, then undercut at 12, fix my fence and to hell with the rest of it.