What Brushpile said.
How to I chainsaw this fallen tree?
- Thread starter Henk
- Start date
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Matt J Leppek
ArboristSite Operative
Give this video a watch. A bit monotone, but very good information. It explains tension points and gives good illustration, along with some cutting techniques.
Troll? I don't know what that is. Or why people would do it. I have a small farm with some livestock in the paddock. I am not a troll. I am a good guy.
I do have a set of two truck straps - winch ratchets that have a lot of pull power. I could cut the crown of at 13, then at 12 (the dangerous part) then winch the tree to the side.
Yes I have excellent tree ropes. Long and strong. Two winches (HD truck straps) and a block and tackle (which I only use for hoisting animals for butchering).
Yes. I watched it all. Good training. Thanks.
I measured the diameter at 15 inches near the fence. It appears secure by the roots still. But that could change when I start cutting as the sliding trunck will be unsupported at the fence.
I think this has top bind. And a sideways force. I have truck strap ratchet winches. Any further counsel or ideas are welcome as I don't want to get injured?
I think this has top bind. And a sideways force. I have truck strap ratchet winches. Any further counsel or ideas are welcome as I don't want to get injured?
Spellfeller
A noob wising he had more time to cut trees...
The picture helps a little, Henk. You are right that the wood on the top is being compressed, causing a top bind. It's harder to tell about sideways forces without pictures from multiple angles.
If you don't have time to get the Jepson book, here's another video. Mother Nature has already done the falling, so you can skip to the "limbing and bucking" part that begins around 28:13.
Matt J Leppek
ArboristSite Operative
Make a face notch on top of 14 about 1/4 of the way through, and slowly do and undercut. This will give you time to react as the face notch closes on itself, bringing the log to the ground at 14. Continue along towards the trunk of the tree making the same cut every 2-3 feet. Make sure you are standing on the high side of the log and take it slow.
Be sure to chain break after every cut when you are walking to the next cut, and when carrying a saw point the blade behind you with the handle facing in front of you. If you fall forward, you won't land on the chain.
Safe cutting!
Be sure to chain break after every cut when you are walking to the next cut, and when carrying a saw point the blade behind you with the handle facing in front of you. If you fall forward, you won't land on the chain.
Safe cutting!
I would under cut that right at the fence and be ready to get the hell out of the way. By the looks of it it might hold up at the stump and support the spar off the ground. Then you could just buck the pieces up the spar. That being said, if you have no experience, you have no business cutting this tree. To many variables and ways you can get killed. Call someone in who knows what they are doing. I am not trying to be offensive, just don't want to see you get hurt.
It looks unsupported to me. Only at the ends. Thanks for your ideas.
I measured the diameter at 15 inches near the fence. It appears secure by the roots still. But that could change when I start cutting as the sliding trunck will be unsupported at the fence.
I think this has top bind. And a sideways force. I have truck strap ratchet winches. Any further counsel or ideas are welcome as I don't want to get injured?
Cut at the butt and drag it out,,
Jeff
Spellfeller
A noob wising he had more time to cut trees...
Cut at the butt and drag it out,,
Both of these are good advice, though as far as #2 is concerned and judging from your photo, I'm not sure you can actually access the butt of the tree given the lay of the land and how the tree fell.
The only thing left out of #1 is the question of the supporting limbs. They are under a lot of compression/tension forces too. The Husky video covers this in part, where the instructor essentially "shaves" the limb a little bit at a time.
Ultimately, like Jed, no one wants this to go badly for you. Given your inexperience and understandable uncertainty, is there someone with more experience who could come and advise/help?
genestar
ArboristSite Operative
I've removed more than a few widow maker snags thay rookies made on public land using this same technique.
I recommend going a 12" at a time instead of 24"-36".
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genestar
ArboristSite Operative
Also would recommend securing the base on the uphill side with enough rope, chain or steel cable to a solid anchor so that if it looses root support, it doesn't come down on top of you.
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Yes. I can strap that back using my winches to prevent sliding.
I would walk the tree, and if safe, limb it and clear out the limbs/brush, them re-assess the area and see it their are direction forces you may have missed or not been able to see before, remember a tree rarely drops straight down and you don't want to be in its path. This tree looks like it still should have some good mass on the "other" side of the fence... did the top break off in the fall, still attached? Flat land on other side or continuing slope?
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Hey Hank, if i was closer i would chop it up for you,but in all seriousness ,if you have to ask how to do this on an internet forum, maybe someone else should cut it for you. Things can go wrong fast if you dont read the tree right.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
It's a piece of cake. Limb it and block it.
John
John
