How to learn the how-to's of cutting firewood

[livemusic]

I never figured cutting firewood would require so much knowledge! Last year, I bought a Stihl ms290 chainsaw. I wanted a saw because we need to cut up a tree now and then that falls in 3-acre yard. Plus, we have a fireplace and enjoy a fire. I did a little research online (not that much, really) and decided that the ms290 would be a good buy. I mean, used. I paid $280 for it. I've had a couple of times it gave me trouble but I hope I have it lined out now; it is cutting good now after some maintenance.

Then I read about a muffler mod. I have read a ton of info on that, alone! And I gotta learn more now about tuning the saw. Sheesh. There is so much to just running a chainsaw! And then maintaining it. Sharpening the chain. On and on.

As for getting firewood, we have storms that come through and knock trees down, so, I know I could get some wood by offering to haul it away. I have a pickup. But... I don't know much at all about how to cut wood with a chainsaw. How the heck do you learn? This will probably sound goofy, but is there an instructional DVD series, lol? If someone had a bunch of trees that fell down, I would need to know how best to cut them up and not get hurt. I have known a few people get killed logging during my lifetime.

There's a lot to this!

Actually, a big part of my desire here is that I want the exercise. I like being outside and some physical labor is a good thing.

I enjoy reading your forum here; my kind of people, I can tell.

 

[svk]

Lots of good videos on YouTube about how to process firewood from tree to stove. Read up on here as well as there are lots of professionals and firewood obsessed recreational cutters who would be happy to help. The first thing is identifying what length of firewood you want for your use. At first you can mark off the rounds with a measuring device and score or spray paint at respective lengths. You should soon get used to cutting at the lengths you need.

Before you get into doing a muffler mod get familiar with your saw and be sure to pick up adequate protective equipment (often referenced on here as "PPE").

Also want to pick up the basics: pickaroon, log roller, cutting wedges, extra chains, and so on. Secondly, how are you planning on splitting the wood? If by hand you will want a splitting axe.

 

[Vizionary]

In this video you will learn the basics about starting, using and maintaining a chainsaw. It is a helpful video for starters.

 

[06switchback]

Working with someone who knows what they are doing would probably be the best

And just about anyone that cuts firewood would probably like some help for a couple of days to get you started

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

 

[esshup]

I agree about getting the proper PPE. Maybe it's just me, but my first purchase would be a set of Labonville chaps and safety glasses. I suspect you already have earplugs or muffs, steel toe boots and gloves.

I "acquired" a milk crate and put all of my essentials in there. Scrench, wedges, gas/oil, extra chains, dead blow hammer, etc. That way all I have to do is grab the saw and milk crate and I'm set.

As for learning what to do, read here, watch youtube videos and just do it. Don't be in a rush to do things, think about it before you act. If you start to get tired, stop and come back the next day. Lots of accidents happen when you are tired.

 

[president]

the axiom goes you heat twice with wood ,once getting and second burning it

 

[olympyk_999]

dead blow hammer,

wtf do you use a dead blow hammer for? pounding wedges?

 

[livemusic]

I agree about getting the proper PPE. Maybe it's just me, but my first purchase would be a set of Labonville chaps and safety glasses. I suspect you already have earplugs or muffs, steel toe boots and gloves.

I "acquired" a milk crate and put all of my essentials in there. Scrench, wedges, gas/oil, extra chains, dead blow hammer, etc. That way all I have to do is grab the saw and milk crate and I'm set.

As for learning what to do, read here, watch youtube videos and just do it. Don't be in a rush to do things, think about it before you act. If you start to get tired, stop and come back the next day. Lots of accidents happen when you are tired.

I have great ear muffs and some safety glasses but the glasses are real cheap, gonna search for better. I would like to buy some glasses good for pistol shooting and the chainsaw safety. If there is anything I need to know about safety glasses, fire away.

I looked at chaps today and first saw some for $100, then saw some for $50, so, gotta research that. I also looked at steel toe boots; I don't have any and know nothing about them. I am getting some good leather gloves; is there any material better than leather?

I bought a Fiskars x27 splitting axe and then wouldn't you know it, I found info about a Husky S2800 might be even better! Hmmm...

I was not familiar with a dead blow hammer. Interesting. What weight? Is this for hitting wedges? As for that, any wedges recommended?

 

[esshup]

wtf do you use a dead blow hammer for? pounding wedges?

Yes. I have one that is around a pound or so that I picked up at Harbor Freight. It's orange in color, so it's easy to see in the woods too.

 

[olympyk_999]

the axiom goes you heat twice with wood ,once getting and second burning it

whoever started that is full of ****...unless they were cutting it and burning it right there (camping/fire pit) or get it delivered...otherwise its like 5X +

 

[olympyk_999]

Yes. I have one that is around a pound or so that I picked up at Harbor Freight. It's orange in color, so it's easy to see in the woods too.

3-4LB "short" handled axe is what I prefer...cant do much wedging with a little hammer

 

[esshup]

I have the Labonville full wrap chaps, I will use them in the summer when wearing shorts too. I believe they are 9 ply? I have a couple short wedges and a couple of longer ones, 6" and 10" or 12". If I'm bucking larger logs on the ground and they want to close up and pinch the bar, I'll get the bar/chain deep enough so I can fit a wedge in the cut and give it a tap or two with the hammer, then finish the cut (if I can finish the cut without hitting the dirt). That stops the bar from getting pinched. If I can't finish the cut without hitting the dirt, I'll cut the whole log as far as I can, then roll it with the cant hook to finish the cuts.

I like to shop locally when I can, but I buy a lot of stuff from http://www.baileysonline.com/

 

[esshup]

3-4LB "short" handled axe is what I prefer...cant do much wedging with a little hammer

I checked it, it's a 2# one. I don't have to do a lot of wedging, it's more to stop cuts from closing up. Instead of wedging, I can use a throw rope (slick line), 150' length of 1/2" Amsteel, a pully & bull rope, and a 65 hp tractor to persuade the tree to fall where I need it to fall.

 

[mn woodcutter]

Youtube is your friend. Stick with videos that are done by reputable posters like some of the saw manufacturers etc for starters. Mostly, just remember to error on the side of caution and use common sense!

 

[Swamp Yankee]

First, buy this.

http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...ll-a-Tree-by-Jeff-Jepson---Second-Edition.axd

Second, read it.

Third, acquire the stuff you'll use.

Fourth, if you don't understand a topic, post a question here, someone will be along shortly to help.

Rule of thumb, if your gut is telling you something isn't right, or safe, it probably isn't. Stop and re-evaluate before proceeding.

Last, and I'll go away, keep your chain properly dressed at all times, and remember, no matter how much BS gets thrown here to the contrary, it ain't the saw, it's the hands, eyes, and brain telling it what to do that is most important.

Take Care

 

[turnkey4099]

wtf do you use a dead blow hammer for? pounding wedges?

+1? They absorb some of the force of the strike.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

I have great ear muffs and some safety glasses but the glasses are real cheap, gonna search for better. I would like to buy some glasses good for pistol shooting and the chainsaw safety. If there is anything I need to know about safety glasses, fire away.

I looked at chaps today and first saw some for $100, then saw some for $50, so, gotta research that. I also looked at steel toe boots; I don't have any and know nothing about them. I am getting some good leather gloves; is there any material better than leather?

I bought a Fiskars x27 splitting axe and then wouldn't you know it, I found info about a Husky S2800 might be even better! Hmmm...

I was not familiar with a dead blow hammer. Interesting. What weight? Is this for hitting wedges? As for that, any wedges recommended?

If the S2800 is better than the Fiskars it can only be by a smidgeon and not worth changing.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

I checked it, it's a 2# one. I don't have to do a lot of wedging, it's more to stop cuts from closing up. Instead of wedging, I can use a throw rope (slick line), 150' length of 1/2" Amsteel, a pully & bull rope, and a 65 hp tractor to persuade the tree to fall where I need it to fall.

I rarely need to pound on a wedge, I insert the wedge before thekerf starts to close. If I have to pound one it will usually be with the Fiskars, 6 lb maul or more commondly a chunk of branch that is convenient at hand.

 

[svk]

If the S2800 is better than the Fiskars it can only be by a smidgeon and not worth changing.

Harry K

I've run them head to head. S2800 is a significant improvement.

Remember, everyone also said a Fiskars was no better than a regular axe until they had one in their hands.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Doing firewood is fun!