How to learn the how-to's of cutting firewood

[sledge&wedge]

First, buy this.

http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...ll-a-Tree-by-Jeff-Jepson---Second-Edition.axd

Second, read it.

Third, acquire the stuff you'll use.

Fourth, if you don't understand a topic, post a question here, someone will be along shortly to help.

Rule of thumb, if your gut is telling you something isn't right, or safe, it probably isn't. Stop and re-evaluate before proceeding.

Last, and I'll go away, keep your chain properly dressed at all times, and remember, no matter how much BS gets thrown here to the contrary, it ain't the saw, it's the hands, eyes, and brain telling it what to do that is most important.

Take Care

I'll add that there is a second, more effective way to get a question answered around here... Post the WRONG information and wait for the corrections to come pouring in. Usually works much faster than asking a question does.

 

[slowp]

I would learn to cuss in creative ways. Running a chainsaw will cause epithets to spew forth.

 

[GilksTreeFelling]

Something I'll add, mon-fri i am in the woods alone. So I make a point to both bring my cell and let someone know where I will be cutting within a 100ft radius, if am leaving the side of the wood road mark where I am going in and every 100 ft. If alone always make sure someone knows where to look for you roughly if something happens

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[blue924.9]

I have great ear muffs and some safety glasses but the glasses are real cheap, gonna search for better. I would like to buy some glasses good for pistol shooting and the chainsaw safety. If there is anything I need to know about safety glasses, fire away.

I looked at chaps today and first saw some for $100, then saw some for $50, so, gotta research that. I also looked at steel toe boots; I don't have any and know nothing about them. I am getting some good leather gloves; is there any material better than leather?

I bought a Fiskars x27 splitting axe and then wouldn't you know it, I found info about a Husky S2800 might be even better! Hmmm...

I was not familiar with a dead blow hammer. Interesting. What weight? Is this for hitting wedges? As for that, any wedges recommended?

i didnt read the second or third page but i will weigh in here,

first get leather gloves, i, after years of working hog barns, turning wrenches as a mechanic, doing farm chores, and of course cutting handling and splitting logs have come to the point where i no longer need gloves as my hands are now nice and rough, i still can get slivers like mad but its a risk i take as i have plenty of gloves.

second is chaps, simply put get the best set of chaps you can, i also recommend getting the hardhat with integrated dust screen and ear muffs, you will thank me later

third is boots, i highly recommend a pair of wolverines like these http://www.sportsmansguide.com/prod...-outside-heel-wellingtons-dark-brown?a=502955, i have had these boots for 4 years now, these have literally been the only pair of boots i have owned, i wear them everyday as the only other pair of shoes i have is a set of 450 dollar dress boots, and i dont go out to fancy places often. my boots are showing no signs of giving out, the tread on the bottom is getting wore down to the point where i should have a new pair for backup when these wear through, i have replaced the insole 1 time and the durashock heal is really good at absorbing impact when i jump down off something which is important for me as i have a bad knee from football and wrestling.

i would also recommend getting a couple or three splitting wedges and a good 8 pound sledgehammer, wilton bash sledgehammers are literally unbreakable but cost a fortune, in addition i would also pick up a cheap 6 pound splitting maul.
both those recommendations are assuming you are not getting a gas powered splitter, if you are getting a gas powered splitter i cant help you there as all of mine have been overbuilt and are all homemade.

i would recommend a 3/4 ton work pickup, nothing fancy as it WILL get dinged up hauling wood. you can get by no doubt with a 1/2 ton, as a matter of fact i am doing it right now but having a heavier pickup to start with is a really good idea, the only reason i am hauling with a half ton is that i got it for free.

ohh and by the way, soon you will have a strong desire to have more saws, fight off this disease for as long as you can, but know you will eventually come down with it, this is know as CAD (chainsaw acquisition disease) it will find you, and it will strike.

edit: forgot to add if you have any questions feel free to ask, some of these folks can come across as tough guys or know it alls but we all started somewhere.

 

[Vibes]

You'll need at least 10 saws. Then wedges.

 

[Sagetown]

As a young teenager, my Dad (an X Logger) was my instructor. He made the situations of variables with tree working seem second nature. Never gave it much thought as to how much is really involved in it.
For a mature novice in need of immediate expert advice and guidance, about all U have is some good videos, and books. No one will be at your tree to show U right from wrong, it's all dependent on what U've watched and read. Just holding a chainsaw in position to saw horizontally across the trunk takes practice. U'll be surprised how off U can be when U set a coke can on the bar , and it falls off.

 

[Gypo Logger]

It's a curse, not a blessing.

 

[KiwiBro]

Dear OP,

Take two posts of what Gypo says and call your doctor if pain persists.

You're Welcome.

 

[cat10ken]

When people talk about wedges you should know to use steel wedges for splitting wood and plastic wedges felling trees or bucking logs. Never the other way around.

Also, always use two hands on the saw. When you experience kickback (and you will) it is absolutely necessary to use both hands to control it. That saw coming back at your face and chest running wide open definitely is going to leave a mark.

When you have your tree down and you're cutting the brush and limbs off always be aware that the tree can roll and take you with it.

Firewooding is very satisfying work but if not done carefully and always being aware of things that can go wrong it is also dangerous.

I suggest you find someone with experience to work with and learn from.

 

[timbrjackrussel]

I never figured cutting firewood would require so much knowledge! Last year, I bought a Stihl ms290 chainsaw. I wanted a saw because we need to cut up a tree now and then that falls in 3-acre yard. Plus, we have a fireplace and enjoy a fire. I did a little research online (not that much, really) and decided that the ms290 would be a good buy. I mean, used. I paid $280 for it. I've had a couple of times it gave me trouble but I hope I have it lined out now; it is cutting good now after some maintenance.

Then I read about a muffler mod. I have read a ton of info on that, alone! And I gotta learn more now about tuning the saw. Sheesh. There is so much to just running a chainsaw! And then maintaining it. Sharpening the chain. On and on.

As for getting firewood, we have storms that come through and knock trees down, so, I know I could get some wood by offering to haul it away. I have a pickup. But... I don't know much at all about how to cut wood with a chainsaw. How the heck do you learn? This will probably sound goofy, but is there an instructional DVD series, lol? If someone had a bunch of trees that fell down, I would need to know how best to cut them up and not get hurt. I have known a few people get killed logging during my lifetime.

There's a lot to this!

Actually, a big part of my desire here is that I want the exercise. I like being outside and some physical labor is a good thing.

I enjoy reading your forum here; my kind of people, I can tell.

Lots of good info here
https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/manual.html

 

[livemusic]

third is boots, i highly recommend a pair of wolverines like these http://www.sportsmansguide.com/prod...-outside-heel-wellingtons-dark-brown?a=502955, i have had these boots for 4 years now, these have literally been the only pair of boots i have owned, i wear them everyday as the only other pair of shoes i have is a set of 450 dollar dress boots, and i dont go out to fancy places often. my boots are showing no signs of giving out, the tread on the bottom is getting wore down to the point where i should have a new pair for backup when these wear through, i have replaced the insole 1 time and the durashock heal is really good at absorbing impact when i jump down off something which is important for me as i have a bad knee from football and wrestling.

Say, upon reading about that particular boot, it does not have steel toe? What about steel toe, you don't see a need?

 

[rullywowr]

Beware of uprooted trees that have fallen and show their rootball. When you are cutting the trunk, at some point the root ball and stump will want to jump back in the hole.


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[blue924.9]

Say, upon reading about that particular boot, it does not have steel toe? What about steel toe, you don't see a need?

opps must have clicked on the wrong boot, they were both side by side and one didnt have a steel toe. this is the one with the steel toe http://www.sportsmansguide.com/prod...eh-waterproof-wellingtons-dark-brown?a=502949

i also am a big advocate for steel toe, if some smaller stuff falls on your foot its fine, but if a whole tree fell on your foot it can cause more damage than a regular toe, IE the steel toe will crush and could cut off your toes, but if something big enough falls on your foot to do that then you have some other problems as well if you had steel toes or not

 

[Philbert]

. . . it can cause more damage than a regular toe, IE the steel toe will crush and could cut off your toes, but if something big enough falls on your foot to do that then you have some other problems as well if you had steel toes or not

Confusing statement. They will not cause more damage because your toes would be crushed to jelly by the time that type of thing happened.

Philbert




"Steel-toe boots are more dangerous to your toes than normal boots when a heavy weight is dropped on them. Whereas a normal boot would just crush your toes, a steel toe would curl and crumple in, cutting your toes off.
BUSTED

Using similar tests to those used to test steel toe boot certification, Adam and Jamie determine that your toes are much safer with steel toe boots than without. There was no toe-cutting curling of the steel toe, and even using a blade attachment didn’t work, only glancing off the steel toe to cut right above where it ended."

 

[blue924.9]

Confusing statement. They will not cause more damage because your toes would be crushed to jelly by the time that type of thing happened.

Philbert




"Steel-toe boots are more dangerous to your toes than normal boots when a heavy weight is dropped on them. Whereas a normal boot would just crush your toes, a steel toe would curl and crumple in, cutting your toes off.
BUSTED

Using similar tests to those used to test steel toe boot certification, Adam and Jamie determine that your toes are much safer with steel toe boots than without. There was no toe-cutting curling of the steel toe, and even using a blade attachment didn’t work, only glancing off the steel toe to cut right above where it ended."

hmm i could have swore when i watched that mythbusters video years back that they confirmed it, guess i was mistaken

 

[Philbert]

The important part about steel toes and chainsaws is that they only protect your toes. They do not prevent a moving chain from sliding off the toe cap up into your instep, or to the side of your foot.

Metatarsal guard footwear (required in many steel mills and warehouses) extend crush protection up the instep area - not designed for cut resistance, but probably give a little more chainsaw protection. Kevlar laces do not help there, by the way.

Chainsaw protective footwear have fibers similar to chaps embedded in the boot to protect these other areas of your feet.

Philbert

 

[svk]

Beware of uprooted trees that have fallen and show their rootball. When you are cutting the trunk, at some point the root ball and stump will want to jump back in the hole.


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Very important especially if you cut with "helpers" ie pets/kids/etc who may be standing behind the root ball to stay out of your way while you are bucking.

 

[Vibes]

Very important especially if you cut with "helpers" ie pets/kids/etc who may be standing behind the root ball to stay out of your way while you are bucking.

That very thing happened a few years back in our area. A man whom I was working with killed his 4 year old daughter. In other words, DON'T HAVE KIDS AROUND WHEN WORKING AROUND TREES!!!!!

There has been a story on our local news in Pittsburgh recently about some guy and his 12 year old kid who got his arm ripped off by a PTO on a tractor. No other explanation but I'm guessing a splitter was involved.

They are making this into a feel good story for our local hospital that reattached the boys arm. Sorry but I don't agree. Kids can stack wood and that's it. My guess is there will be some big lawsuit against tractor and splitter manufacturer.

 

[philoshop]

All of the above, and I'll add:
Pay close attention to your survival instincts. If something doesn't 'feel right', back off and figure out why.

 

[Fred Wright]

So much good advice here. I agree with these folks, they've been cutting trees and working up firewood for a long time. A lot of emphasis on the tools of the trade and that's good. But one must know how to use his tools correctly first.

Logging is probably the most dangerous work a man can do. There are ways to make it safer but nothing is guaranteed. Every tree is different. So it's critical that you educate yourself before starting that saw for the first time.

I learned how to handle a chainsaw when I was around 13 or so. Worked summers with a neighbor man who owned a dredging business. Digging canals to drain swampland, ditches, ponds - anything that required a strong back & a weak mind, he used to say. He wasn't kidding.

Anyhoo, digging a canal through forested swamp involved cutting a lot of trees. He taught me how to fall with an ancient Mac that I'd have sworn came over on the Mayflower. That saw was god-awful heavy but it ran all day. I watched him drop a few then tried it, starting with small ones. Got a basic tutorial and was off to work. The job went a lot faster as I could drop trees while he operated the dragline.

Those summers taught me a lot about escape routes, aiming and dropping trees. Larger, iffy trees he'd pull in the desired fall direction with the crane. It was important to aim; he didn't want trees falling in the canal path. Don't get in your own damn way he'd tell me.

I screwed up once... that was enough. Was back-cutting a big-arssed tulip poplar and cut through the hinge wood. The tree pivoted on the stump; I looked up to see where it was heading as I'd been taught and ran like hell the other way. The tree crashed down, just barely missing the crane. Boy, he read me the riot act that day. I never did that again.

Most importantly, the ol' boy taught me to focus 100% on what I was doing and never get distracted. Not easy for a teenager but I got into it quickly.

That's the ticket ~ start small and work your way up to the larger trees. When you're running a saw stay focused and don't get distracted. Stop cutting and take a break when you feel yourself getting tired.