how to remove muffler on stihl

[cookies]

The new muffler did not come with #30, but seems to not need it. I was able to get that upper bolt off after getting the old metal gasket off the other 2 bolts and then spin it as the rusted lip would not let it past the threads. After i spun it there was enough play to push the bolt sideways enough to cock the square head enough to release from the blocked position. I saw that the new replacement bolts heads were a bit smaller than the originals and that made it easy to slip it in past the housing blockage. New muffler is on and it sounds like it's running a bit smoother but also perhaps a slight bit bogged down? I only ran it for a minute though. Need to get it cutting to see how the new muffler affects the saw. Thanks for your help Wood Doc.

only the 390 in the ms series come from the factory with the heat deflector aka #30, those bolts are notorious for the threads stripping at the end or rusting away and those saws require major disassembly to replace simple things and result in easy frustration. You will want long hemostats if you plan to do more to it in the future. Replace the bolts, I cut the old ones if the get stuck and refuse to come out and grind on the square head until the new one slides in. After market cylinders can be even worse requiring aluminum removal for the bolt to even fit into the pockets on the 029-390 cylinders s check them BEFORE you assemble.

 

[bigealta]

Update. Saw running well, better actually. It seemed a touch sluggish when i punched the trigger, but then i lowered the idle a bit as it was to fast and rolling the chain some. So now chain steady at idle and revs accelerating pretty quick when punched. The muffler feels a bit restrictive maybe but not really that bad. The saw had been dieing a bunch with the rattling hole ridden old muffler. Seems to be much more smooth now, but need smoe more time running. Was thinking the fuel line was cracked by the way it was cutting out but now not so sure. i replaced it not to many years ago.