How would you fell this Maple 11" leaner?

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if the saws sharp just notch, bore center out and conventional back cut it, not to hard. as for the bore cut preventing barberchair , not always seen it happen when the idiot left to big of a hinge, he said "i bore cut it because everyone tells me they won't barberchair that way".
 
if the saws sharp just notch, bore center out and conventional back cut it, not to hard. as for the bore cut preventing barberchair , not always seen it happen when the idiot left to big of a hinge, he said "i bore cut it because everyone tells me they won't barberchair that way".

If you are saying bore from the face I would say no, too dangerous to be below the tree for that long. I am not saying YOU could not do it, just that I would not.

Regarding your second sentance- absolutely right on. Just because you use a certain method does not mean every tree will act the same and it does not mean you can ignore the basics like good hinge construction

I'm layed up this week so I have spend alot of time here. It has been a busy week and I have enjoyed it.
 
I used the New Zealand cut on the above tree today and with the last cut...

CRACK! (Almost as loud as a fire cracker.)

Anyway here are pictures of the stump and log using the New Zealand cut...
 
Notch and drop. I would have it cut and hauled by the time you figure out how to do it!

Well sure...but even I could do that and I'm not even in the business. Heck, any one of us could do that in half a dozen different ways.

I think what the poster is looking for is everyone's thoughts...trying to expand one's repertoire if you will.

FWIW...a shallow humbolt and quick backcut would be my preference.
 
...I think what the poster is looking for is everyone's thoughts...trying to expand one's repertoire if you will...

Usually everyone posts pictures of the trees after cutting.... I thought I would try something new and post the pictures *before* cutting! (And thus maybe learn some new tricks, which I did.)
 
I'm wondering the same thing myself. Anyone know?

The New Zealand manual says "final cut as low as possible". What does that mean?



not sure what them NZ'ers are up to bud to me it would be lower than the backcut but not that low. like a "few" inches below. dont hold it to me though, i dont have any cuts named after me.

i always thought the purpose of that cut was to be able to make a quick getaway after the cut. if your cutting it ALAP doesnt that mean you gotta get up close to the wood and potentially on bended knee?
 
Usually everyone posts pictures of the trees after cutting.... I thought I would try something new and post the pictures *before* cutting! (And thus maybe learn some new tricks, which I did.)

I think that's a great idea. I read much but post little because I think I have a lot to learn. I'd love to see more ways to skin a cat too.

I picked up the bore cut on this site and I agree with the majority who think that it's overused but I've tried it many times on trees just like the one you presented. There's not a terrible risk on a tree like this and it builds your skills; adds another tool to your "tool box".

Having said that...you need to go with what fits your comfort level and not what the majority says.
 
i look at the felling of "little" tree's as a chance to work on my cuts for when i have to drop something bigger. for the most part the little guys are going to do the same thing that the big'ns are going to do, just on a different scale.

lately ive been finding myself doing the humboltd on most of the butt's ive had to drop. i like the way it comes off the stump and lands flatter than a conventional cut, never mind when its essential that i keep the log on the stump.

i was using this cut when climbing (when the situation called for it) without really knowing what it was. this site and a few books have helped me find a great use of this cut on the ground now. but only when the situation calls for it.

billy bob. like b1rdman says, "another tool in the tool box". and nothing like getting the chance to practice using them tools.

good luck with it.
 
Well sure...but even I could do that and I'm not even in the business. Heck, any one of us could do that in half a dozen different ways.

I think what the poster is looking for is everyone's thoughts...trying to expand one's repertoire if you will.

FWIW...a shallow humbolt and quick backcut would be my preference.

Yeah ok but that was my thoughts I have cut probably near two hundred thousand trees without injury and little property damage I can't say none
fence or two no major damage in 23 years. In all that time I may have
bore cut three of four times and not because it was needed. I have and
still do use lumbermans or humbolt notch and like it for landing sections
because it is easier to land them flat! I have seen people doodle bug
too many times and when its plain and simple just cut it.

Question: how would you cut this tree?
 
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Bob, I would have probably tripped the strap 1/3 as low as you did.

To me it depends on the severity of the lean and the overall weight being released (top weight). The lower you trip it, the more grain you have to split before it lets go. The higher the trip the sooner it will let go. That is probably why they want you to trip it low.

I agree with Oldirty, you have to play with those smaller trees when you can. Pull out the bag of tricks and see what you can do. Start small and work up to the big stuff.

Thanks for the pics BTW, it's always a plus.
 
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Yeah ok but that was my thoughts I have cut probably near two hundred thousand trees without injury and little property damage I can't say none
fence or two no major damage in 23 years. In all that time I may have
bore cut three of four times and not because it was needed. I have and
still do use lumbermans or humbolt notch and like it for landing sections
because it is easier to land them flat! I have seen people doodle bug
too many times and when its plain and simple just cut it.

Question: how would you cut this tree?

I would face it, then bore the face, then bore the back cut, then bore the compression side and set a wedge in it, be careful not to beat the wedge in too hard, jump in the middle and have my buddy trip the tension strap so I could ride it down. lol.

You sure love that tree don't you Rope.:cheers:
 
I would face it, then bore the face, then bore the back cut, then bore the compression side and set a wedge in it, be careful not to beat the wedge in too hard, jump in the middle and have my buddy trip the tension strap so I could ride it down. lol.

You sure love that tree don't you Rope.:cheers:



lol
 
I would face it, then bore the face, then bore the back cut, then bore the compression side and set a wedge in it, be careful not to beat the wedge in too hard, jump in the middle and have my buddy trip the tension strap so I could ride it down. lol.

You sure love that tree don't you Rope.:cheers:

Ok you sometimes make sense but not on this one a wedge would have spelled disaster. Trust me and I like metal wedges so don't take it wrong but it did not have enough sound wood to raise it and leaned toward that house! By the way I did not bore that tree!!!!!
 
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What part about riding in the middle of a hollow tree doesn't make sense? Seem perfectly logical to me. (sarcasm)

I've seen the documentary on that tree, it was a doosy. Keep pluggin!
 

Wtf are you laughin bout :hmm3grin2orange: I am always forgetting
the friggin camera but I have one coming up That I will have to get
pics of and I will have to climb it, so maybe then y' all will understand.
It is a large pine with the roof built around it with a three phase power
line on one side and roof on all sides it should be good!
 
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