Husky 246

[blis]

This week I should get to try out my project 242. The last part will be here on Mon. It has new crank, piston, clutch and will put new gas line in tomorrow. Can't wait to try it against the 246's.

The local Husky dealer built 2-254's and 1-257 from his huge pile of parts and they all sold in 3 days. A 254 is the most sought after saw around these parts.

Your gonna love the 242 but it cant match 246 on the bigger wood but on smaller wood its a beast...

oh, my local husky/stihl dealer got some trashed 254 on the shelves, 300e or so for it

 

[Tzed250]

RPM's

Can the newer saws be made to turn as fast as the 242 was rated for?

 

[blis]

Can the newer saws be made to turn as fast as the 242 was rated for?

242xp is the only saw that I've seen rated at 15.5k rpm..

 

[SawTroll]

242xp is the only saw that I've seen rated at 15.5k rpm..

Yes.

 

[Tzed250]

What made the 242 so special? Crank, rod, bearings? I would really like to have one of those screamers!

 

[SawTroll]

The 242 was a spesialiced limbing saw, not much power at lower rpms.....

 

[Stihl Crazy]

Can the newer saws be made to turn as fast as the 242 was rated for?

I have never seen any specs for the Redmax 5000, but the dealers here are setting them at 15,500 and they are one tough saw. The one I was given to test was set at 16,000 and ran great (1 year of use ) with no sign of lean condition. The high was set at 2 1/2 turns out to reach 16,000.

 

[blis]

I have never seen any specs for the Redmax 5000, but the dealers here are setting them at 15,500 and they are one tough saw. The one I was given to test was set at 16,000 and ran great (1 year of use ) with no sign of lean condition. The high was set at 2 1/2 turns out to reach 16,000.

well, the 242xp is rated at 15.5k but it will easily do 16k and more....

 

[A100HVA]

well, the 242xp is rated at 15.5k but it will easily do 16k and more....

that's what we like to hear

 

[SawTroll]

What's that melting metal odor......... :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Stihl Crazy]

He is a stock 246 vs a ported one. Took the ported one to a contest last Sat. It won last place by 3 seconds.

 

[Engineeringnerd]

Stihl Crazy,

I noticed you did a bore cut and swung it around for the back cut. How do you keep from cutting into the hinge at the center and does the tree ever start going before the hinge is completed as you cut around the tree?

Also, I've considered trying one of those falling levers, but have been using wedges. What do you see as the advantages/disadvantages of the lever?

Thanks for the video, it's helpful. I hope more will start videoing their work so we can all learn and critique.

 

[Stihl Crazy]

Stihl Crazy,

I noticed you did a bore cut and swung it around for the back cut. How do you keep from cutting into the hinge at the center and does the tree ever start going before the hinge is completed as you cut around the tree?

Also, I've considered trying one of those falling levers, but have been using wedges. What do you see as the advantages/disadvantages of the lever?

Thanks for the video, it's helpful. I hope more will start videoing their work so we can all learn and critique.

It is from many years of practice (sometimes 100 plus trees per day) and just keeping an eye on the cut. I really don't care if I cut some of the center of the hinge as long as I have the corners to hold the tree. Cutting in a big wind changes the picture. It is the same as bore cutting thru the face of the notch when doing a large diameter tree. That is how I cut trees that are over double the bar length.

I like a lever in small wood, but use wedges in big wood. My back can't take all of the lifting anymore. The lever is the faster method of the two.

I will try to take more videos.

 

[Engineeringnerd]

So when you are bore cutting and working your way around, do you normally dog your saw as you move and allow it to cut out the center of the hinge, or do you try to hold the saw out so it doesn't go thru the center?

 

[Stihl Crazy]

No dogs on my saw for softwood, saws here come with bumper plates instead. I bore cut about an inch from the notch in the depth of the bar. From there I swing the saw around with the tip of the bar remaining almost stationary,( if the size of tree permits), finishing up with the same size hinge on the other side. It is hard to explain as every tree presents it own unique challenge. Some trees one way, some another.

 

[SWE#Kipp]

Maybe this pic helps to explain the method you talk about !?

 

[SawTroll]

Maybe this pic helps to explain the method you talk about !?

Looks like it is from a Husky manual, but it is a pretty good illustration, anyway......:greenchainsaw:

 

[SWE#Kipp]

Looks like it is from a Husky manual, but it is a pretty good illustration, anyway......:greenchainsaw: