Husky 254 Sheered flywheel key

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

welsh warrior

New Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2021
Messages
4
Reaction score
1
Location
wales
Hi all im new here and need help and advice. I just done my first build husky 254 and made a rookie mistake did not tighten the flywheel enough. It was running sweet for all of 5 min and cut out. Flywheel key sheered. Its the older 254 part no 503 08 80 02. Can not find this part anywhere at a decent price and was told to put lock tight on the taper and snug it down that will do the job. this will cause issues in the future if i need to change seals and so on. Is there a flywheel off another model that will fit ??? Or should i attempt to cut my own key way ?? and whats your thoughts on timing advance if i do this. The saw is all original right now apart from a muffler.
 
Don't use lock tite. All you need is CLEAN, oil-free surfaces and proper torque. My Mac SP125c has only a taper on the clutch side and it doesn't slip. Make a mark on the end of the shaft and the flywheel just outside the hole to line it up.
Now, if the surfaces are boogered up from slipping, you may have a problem.
 
Hi all im new here and need help and advice. I just done my first build husky 254 and made a rookie mistake did not tighten the flywheel enough. It was running sweet for all of 5 min and cut out. Flywheel key sheered. Its the older 254 part no 503 08 80 02. Can not find this part anywhere at a decent price and was told to put lock tight on the taper and snug it down that will do the job. this will cause issues in the future if i need to change seals and so on. Is there a flywheel off another model that will fit ??? Or should i attempt to cut my own key way ?? and whats your thoughts on timing advance if i do this. The saw is all original right now apart from a muffler.
Mate just put some fine lapping or valve grinding paste on the flywheel/ crank taper and lap it in. No key off course. Clean it real well then blue the tapers for good contact pattern. Even without the woodruff key the flywheel will stay put IF you tighten the retaining nut correctly. The key just gets Factory timing quickly and accurately. See my post on "Stihl saws kickback on starting". Hope this helps.
 
As previously stated, NO LOCKTITE. I put assembly paste on and old 50 just to make removal easier in the future. Hasn't slipped yet and it's been a few years. Most Husqvarnas respond well with a little advance.
 
Back
Top