Husky 350 - fiddle or leave alone?

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Ronsealdeath

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Hello there,
I had been looking for a 50cc for for a while to run a 16” bar and replace by 023. I managed to pick up a really nice Husky 350, which was so nice i ditched my 346xp/ms260 quest.
Anyway, it runs sweet as a nut, revs up clean and is so clean under the cover i dont think its seen any work. Its unbelievable how clean it is for a 2001 saw. Its on a 325 050 bar and chain.
My question is whether i mess with the muffler bolts or the intake boot to address known flaws? It has the plastic boot clamp and the muffler bolts are tight. I dont want to mess as it runs do nice but also, would like to make sure I address any weaknesses now before issues arise.
Any advice gratefully received:)
PS i love my ms362 and 023 ( and my old Dolmars) but had to scratch the Husky itch! On first impression its sweet!
 
Both the intake boot retainer and the muffler bolts are as you say "known" problem areas of this vintage Husqvarna series- neither being replaced will alter the performance or running of the saw though.
Easiest muffler "fix" is to add the front support bracket off a 346XP with one mounting flange milled off- so it is fixed with the top bucking spike bolt and the two muffler bolts- no recoil side mount on the 350.
Replace the plastic clamp on the intake with either the OEM metal replacement, or a screw clamp off a 372 through to 390 (or heavens forbid a Stihl clamp).
 
Both the intake boot retainer and the muffler bolts are as you say "known" problem areas of this vintage Husqvarna series- neither being replaced will alter the performance or running of the saw though.
Easiest muffler "fix" is to add the front support bracket off a 346XP with one mounting flange milled off- so it is fixed with the top bucking spike bolt and the two muffler bolts- no recoil side mount on the 350.
Replace the plastic clamp on the intake with either the OEM metal replacement, or a screw clamp off a 372 through to 390 (or heavens forbid a Stihl clamp).
Thank you. I had thought about the muffler support and will order one. Replacing the plastic clamp seemed logical i just needed moral support to mess with such a clean saw. Would a quality hose clamp be suitable or should i get a genuine husky part? Thanks again
 
Thank you. I had thought about the muffler support and will order one. Replacing the plastic clamp seemed logical i just needed moral support to mess with such a clean saw. Would a quality hose clamp be suitable or should i get a genuine husky part? Thanks again

Most traditional hardware store hose clamps are too big and bulky to fit well where they are required to fit and clamp the intake boot properly to the cylinder.
The OEM type band can be a bit fiddly to fit and clip in to place, personally I find the larger XP saw screw band easier to use and it should be easy to find at your local agents.
Do a search on here- should be plenty of threads about replacing the plastic clip on 359-357XP down to 345-350 saws.
 
I built my 350 with a 353 piston and cylinder, did a pop-up hyway piston and gasket delete...added a jungle muffler off ebay. Im very happy with it.
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Most traditional hardware store hose clamps are too big and bulky to fit well where they are required to fit and clamp the intake boot properly to the cylinder.
The OEM type band can be a bit fiddly to fit and clip in to place, personally I find the larger XP saw screw band easier to use and it should be easy to find at your local agents.
Do a search on here- should be plenty of threads about replacing the plastic clip on 359-357XP down to 345-350 saws.
You will likely find that the easiest way to replace the intake clamp is to remove the cylinder.
 
My advice, just remember it's worth what you paid for it...

Pull the cylinder and trim the plastic wings on the intake clamp. Install a 385/390 clamp. Throw the cylinder base gasket in the trash, use a sealant such as Yamabond 4, Motoseal, etc. Before you do that hang a new piston on the rod, either a flat top Meteor 353 slug or the aforementioned Hyway popup. If you go the Hyway route pick up a Caber ring. Pry the deflector on the muffler up and enlarge the outlet with a drill or dremel. Make it as large as you can but still kept under the deflector. Grab a 346xp muffler bracket(this is one of the few places a POS China part will work but OEM is fine too) and modify it to fit. All of this will take some time, but should cost less than $50 and you'll have a completely different saw.
 
It is either leave it a lone and take a chance or upgrade. IF mine I would order the Husky intake metal clamp boot kit and replace. On the muffler studs. Order a support bracket and replace studs with 272 high temperature thread locker. Some might do it without removing but have to remove the cylinder reseal to replace the intake clamp/boot.
 
Thanks for all the replies. If im removing the cylinder to fit the clamp, it does make sense to put a higher comp piston in. Its also a nice little project whilst stuck in the house. Thanks again.
PS one more question: im assuming i have the smaller displacement engine for a 2000 year model, and i will need to shorten the bolts with a gasket delete? Much appreciated
 
Thanks for all the replies. If im removing the cylinder to fit the clamp, it does make sense to put a higher comp piston in. Its also a nice little project whilst stuck in the house. Thanks again.

The early year models like yours came with a 44mm bore and flat piston. It was the later years that came with the bigger bore and dished piston. Don't know if an AM popup is available for your saw.
 
The early year models like yours came with a 44mm bore and flat piston. It was the later years that came with the bigger bore and dished piston. Don't know if an AM popup is available for your saw.
Ok i may have a slight anomaly here as i just took the top cover off to have a look down the spark plug hole, and its pretty obvious it has an aftermarket cylinder and piston fitted. Im no expert but it looks cheap to me. Only mark is a small ‘12’ in a circle at the base above the starter. The piston is a flat topped one so im assuming its got a 45mm aftermarket kit fitted. The muffler bolts also look new to me. Looks like it burned itself up early in its life,sat for years in a cupboard then got fixed and sold.
I shall be contacting the seller forthwith!
 
Ok i may have a slight anomaly here as i just took the top cover off to have a look down the spark plug hole, and its pretty obvious it has an aftermarket cylinder and piston fitted. Im no expert but it looks cheap to me. Only mark is a small ‘12’ in a circle at the base above the starter. The piston is a flat topped one so im assuming its got a 45mm aftermarket kit fitted. The muffler bolts also look new to me. Looks like it burned itself up early in its life,sat for years in a cupboard then got fixed and sold.
I shall be contacting the seller forthwith!
Its a 19 year old used chainsaw...and you say it runs mint, whats to contact the seller about?

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Its a 19 year old used chainsaw...and you say it runs mint, whats to contact the seller about?

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I get what your saying, but its been fitted with a chinese head and piston, not an oem one. So it was not quite what was described. Its a 1 owner saw so the seller must have known about this at least. Anyway, thats another issue. I will replace the clamp and fit the muffler brace. I’ll see how it goes with some money back on the saw. Much appreciated for the advice again.
 
That...functions so well there was not a hint of a problem.

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Sure, today. Poke around a little and you'll see plenty of pics of crappy ports on Chylinders. Plus they pretty much never run at the same power level as stock. He probably bought a 340 in 350 clothing. Something like that should absolutely be disclosed. If you haven't ran the good stuff you might not know any better but that's no excuse.
 

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