Husky 350 Rebuild Question

[tickbitintn]

I would pressure/vac test it BEFORE you tear it down to find the leak that it most likely has....

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[Mattyo]

If you are going to tear down that far easy to do new bearings and seals but honestly I've never seen the seals go bad what happens is the riser doesn't end up being well sealed against the seals and the case so you have to reseal all of that with some Loctite 515 or 518

 

[dsell]

There's no way I would rebuild a 350 without taking the riser off the crankcase and putting on a layer of Dirko HT. You should be able to get a tube from your Stihl dealer. It's actually labeled for non-metallic surfaces. Add a tiny bit of Dirko around the impulse nipple, this is another trouble spot on this series. It's a good plan to add a modified muffler bracket from a 351, 353, 346 to help support it. You can use both legs if you want to drill a hole in your oil tank. (others have) The picture shows threebond that failed the air test, Dirko HT is red.

 

[TNmatt]

This is great stuff guys, thank you! I didn't really want to tear it all the way down because I was worried about getting it all back together but after all of your suggestions it seems like that's the best thing and I watched Mattyo's videos and it really doesn't seem all that bad. I saw another YouTube video of a 350 rebuild and it went into a little more detail on resealing the riser to the case so I may attempt to do that tonight

 

[dsell]

Give it a day to cure before you pressure test it. I used 7 psi. If it has a decompression button, it will probably leak a little.

 

[tickbitintn]

Not much use in pressure / vac testing AFTER tearing down and resealing with a SCORED PISTON..... and then do it all over again to replace piston...

Deererainman... I made almost the same spark plug based fitting... Works great but sometimes leaks around the crush / sealing washer if not real tight....

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[Mattyo]

Tear that sucker down matt! You can do it!

 

[TNmatt]

Not much use in pressure / vac testing AFTER tearing down and resealing with a SCORED PISTON..... and then do it all over again to replace piston...

Deererainman... I made almost the same spark plug based fitting... Works great but sometimes leaks around the crush / sealing washer if not real tight....

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I guess that is a good point... This may be a stupid question but since I don't have the equipment to do a pressure test will resealing the riser to the case negate the need for the test since I will be hopefully sealing up any of those leaks? Or is it just dumb not to test it?

 

[dsell]

You need to test it. I assume you are not going to replace the crank seals because they are expensive unless you go aftermarket. There are too many leak spots on this model to go without testing.

 

[Mattyo]

I never test...but I fly by the seat of my pants instead of testing and having all the equipment needed and whatnot. I seal things best I can and run them. If it blows up I redo it.

I do agree with DSELL that it is best to test.

 

[dsell]

I made my tester out of a blood pressure cuff. I used pieces of polychrome to make the blocking plates on the the exhaust and intake. Bicycle inner tube for a gasket between the polychrome and exhaust. Gauges from garage sale finds along with the two fittings tapped in both plates. I found a gauge that shows vacuum and pressure, which works nice to test the impulse.

 

[tickbitintn]

I generally use inner tube placed in between muffler / cyl and the same in between carb and intake so you can use all the factory hardware that way.... Usually blocks impulse also... (Unless pro saw with separate line.... )
Which created need for spark plug adapter... Then just use a mighty vac on that adapter.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[TNmatt]

I've been a little slow working on this (been spending my spare time in the deer stand) but I got back to it yesterday. My Meteor piston came in this week so I've been trying to get the rest torn down and resealed. I got the clutch off but I'm struggling to get the flywheel off. I backed the nut off so it's flush with the crankshaft and held the saw up while holding the flywheel and hitting the nut with a hammer but it is not budging. Anybody have any tricks?

 

[Mattyo]

Pb blaster....then light tape with hammer....work your way up to harder taps....it'll go

 

[tickbitintn]

You can warm it up a little... May help. With a heat gun you can't hurt it...

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[dsell]

I use a composite shim wedged between the crankcase and flywheel, then hit the shaft.

 

[TNmatt]

Thanks guys, pb blaster did the trick! I'm working from home today so I got it all the way torn down on my lunch break. The screws in the bottom that hold the rizer in were pretty loose, not even hand tight I guess they had worked themselves loose. Do y'all put loctite on those when you put them back in?

 

[dsell]

Thanks guys, pb blaster did the trick! I'm working from home today so I got it all the way torn down on my lunch break. The screws in the bottom that hold the rizer in were pretty loose, not even hand tight I guess they had worked themselves loose. Do y'all put loctite on those when you put them back in?

I don't. Think about the guy that wants to take them out after you. There are metal inserts in the plastic, so you are tightening against metal. As long as they are torqued to spec, shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Mattyo]

I blue loctite the bottom bolts...especially if they are the coarse thread type

 

[Yoopermike]

Just an fyi. The stock husky 350 does run around 100psi.