Husky 359 Rebuild & Mod Advice

[BING38RT]

I got a hold of another Husqvarna 359 e-tech saw with the Walbro carb on it.
I'm looking for opinions & options as what to do to increase the power or open it up.

The 2 OEM heads I have for them are shot, I did try to clean them up but too much plating damage.

I have 3 different heads( 1 Hyway & 2 Dukes ) for it neither of which seems easy to port the upper transfers and with my limited knowledge of porting I'm afraid to do anything to aggressive and yes I have a Dremel & a Timing wheel. Here's the kicker, I understand the basics of porting and how to use a degree wheel but I've never done so.

With that being said I think my best option is a base gasket delete, a pop up piston from LRB with some Caber Rings and a Wide open single port muffler and some carb retuning.

Or I could buy A Meteor Head Kit and do a base delete with their flat top piston. I'm also going to run new gas and oil lines, new filters, a new bar plate, and possibly replace the crank seals if there leaking.

( Pictures are of the saw quick revuild after I tried to save OEM head by sanding off aluminum transfer but she's too far gone compression wise. Also one of the pictures is 1 of 2 brand new dukes Nikasil heads that I hogged out the lowers, rounded and smoothed them out. )

Update- I have ordered a meteor piston, extra Caber Rings, and a Knockoff Zama C3-EL42 carb for it.

 

[J D]

Base gasket delete without first measuring squish is tantamount to a hack job. You need to put it together & work out what you can get your squish to... if it's down to .020" then I wouldn't be sticking a popup in there. At closer to .030" I would though. Don't go under .018" (especially with a popup)
You're probably better off rebuilding the Walbro carb & loosing the compensation (as per treemonkeys guide) rather than running a knock off carb.
The muffler mod on there should give you some reasonable gains. Beyond that you need to decide if you're aiming for more revs or torque if you're planning to do anything significant. Personally, if it was an OEM cylinder I'd probably just raise the ports by as much as I dropped the cylinder & widen them a bit... aftermaket timing is a whole different thing so you want to be doing some research & using your degree wheel to get what you can out of it

 

[BING38RT]

Base gasket delete without first measuring squish is tantamount to a hack job. You need to put it together & work out what you can get your squish to... if it's down to .020" then I wouldn't be sticking a popup in there. At closer to .030" I would though. Don't go under .018" (especially with a popup)
You're probably better off rebuilding the Walbro carb & loosing the compensation (as per treemonkeys guide) rather than running a knock off carb.
The muffler mod on there should give you some reasonable gains. Beyond that you need to decide if you're aiming for more revs or torque if you're planning to do anything significant. Personally, if it was an OEM cylinder I'd probably just raise the ports by as much as I dropped the cylinder & widen them a bit... aftermaket timing is a whole different thing so you want to be doing some research & using your degree wheel to get what you can out of it

Alright, that's simple enough. It's already together I just can't get it to idle without dying. Then again I didn't rebuild the Walbro carb that came on it. It's one of the ones without that black block spacer on it.

Ideally I'd like it to have a bit more torque but I also want more revs for when I get down into the cut, especially in oak and maple. My first one all I did was throw a new meteor head kit on and the same muffler as I have on now. She was quite a lil ripper.

But this one came as a package deal, with a Husky 350, neither running and a few missing parts for $200. I Rebuilt the 350 first, with a dukes head, a pop up piston, rebuilt the carb and added a ported non baffle muffler and she's a lil screamer with an 18" bar.

When I took it apart( 359 ) this is what I was dealing with. It didn't have the head on it. So I happened to have an old OEM head with transfer all above & below the exhaust port so I did my best to sand it off but the spark plug hole is stripped out, the threads barley hold a plug in lol