Husky 372 won't rev past idle

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Fatkid

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hi folks new here , any advice appreciated - I have a 365 with a 372 head and piston on it from a parts saw- it ran great last year- out of winter storage it started and idled fine but won't rev past idle - just sounds pop-pop-pop-pop....
I put a new carb complete and new ignition module and spark plug , started and idles great, jets set fine, and it does the same :(
Pulled the air filter off and muffler and no difference . The piston and ring look ok thru the ports ...
Air leak ??? Thoughts? I'm pretty good at top end rebuilds but not good once these bases are covered
Thx
 
Either bad fuel or Lack of fuel. Did you leave ethonal mix in it over the winter ?
If not clean the screen in the carb and change the screen in the tank. Add fresh mix.
 
Either bad fuel or Lack of fuel. Did you leave ethonal mix in it over the winter ?
If not clean the screen in the carb and change the screen in the tank. Add fresh mix.

Nope -fuel run dry for winter - new fuel and brand new carb today
 
pull the spark arrester screen off the muffler and make sure you don't have a lot of carbon build up on it. could have a restricted exhaust. also if able do a pressure and vac test to check for air leaks.
 
Ok what is the impulse line? I've never heard of this but saw it in the shop manual today ? Thx
 
pull the spark arrester screen off the muffler and make sure you don't have a lot of carbon build up on it. could have a restricted exhaust. also if able do a pressure and vac test to check for air leaks.
No spark arrester its piped - plus pulled the muffler too. I don't have tools for pressure or vac test- what's the procedure for that - perhaps the head of crankcase gasket has gone -
 
Ok what is the impulse line? I've never heard of this but saw it in the shop manual today ? Thx
Line that connects crankcase to carb. Line is connect to barb at cylinder base to carb. Works diaphram to draw fuel into carb. Look for cracks in lines.
 
No spark arrester its piped - plus pulled the muffler too. I don't have tools for pressure or vac test- what's the procedure for that - perhaps the head of crankcase gasket has gone -
Seal exhaust and intake on cylinder, plug decompression and use mini-vac or similar attached to impulse line, draw 7 lbs vacuum and hold, slow leak down is expected, but some saws hold until releasing. Check fuel line first.
 
No spark arrester its piped - plus pulled the muffler too. I don't have tools for pressure or vac test- what's the procedure for that - perhaps the head of crankcase gasket has gone -
You can check for crank seal leaks and base gasket air leaks without vac test. Remove bar, chain, top covers and leave off clutch cover, start your saw, spray Carb cleaner not wd40 or parts cleaner near both crank seals and around base gasket. If you have a leak, saw will stop, right now. Use care not to spray around air intake, I remove air cleaner and block off air jet with my thumb, also stops saw and will take a few pulls to clear saw of carb cleaner. Hope to hear you have a running saw.
 
You need to prime it so you can eliminate fuel flow as problem.
I've only seen 'the carb' do that sometimes frozen as well it will generally lean frozen depending on restriction, for example. New carb? new coil? new plug? That doesn't mean ****. If I went on that mentally then I'd still be chasing my tail from the 80's.
Sounds like another bad coil or lower ark on wire. Did you use a different wire? What kind of coil?
Is it spitting fuel through the front of mufler and decompression? Prime it, if she revs up then look at that. Move coil gap too? Its been said before to be the problem before but never personally experienced that with that saw in over 20 yrs.
 

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