Husky 455 Rancher v Stihl MS250C

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bernithebiker

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Hi - I've been chainsawing alot for 2 years now in our estate here in France. I have about 18 acres of woods to clear!
I started off with a Stihl MS250C 18" bar which I have had very few problems with, and I really like it.
As I sometimes get help I wanted another saw so I ordered a Husky 350. When it arrived it looked so cheaply made compared to the Stihl, and heavier, that I didn't even start it up. I sold it on at break even.
I then ordered a 455 Rancher as it allowed me to have a 20" bar for bigger trees and it had more power, albeit a full kilo, 2.2lbs heavier.
Well, maybe I'm missing something, but for me the Stihl is the way superior saw. Here's why;

1.) Quarter turn fuel and oil caps on Stihl - these are great and allow quick, easy use even with gloves on
2.) No tool tensioner on Stihl - this is fantastic, no need to carry the spanner, and it's very quick and easy, twice as fast as the Husky
3.) Throttle control (engine speed) is very precise on the Stihl, the Husky is much more on and off.
4.) Noise - the Stihl is by far quieter
5.) Fuel consumption - although the Husky is still being run in, the Stihl uses far less fuel.
6.) Control - the Stihl is far easier to control and has less tendency to jump about (small kickbacks) in the cut

The only thing to be said for the Husky is that it is more powerful, but not hugely so.

I think I should have gone for a Stihl 290 instead, but, and here's the big but, with sellers heavily discounting Husky's and Stihl's not being sold by mail order, the price difference is huge. For me at least the Husky was almost half the price of the Stihl. So although I think the Stihl is a far better saw, it is not twice as good!

Am I missing something? Oh and by the way, how often should you flip the bar? And when is it considered to be worn out?

Thanks!
 
The O29 isnt any better saw than the 455. I personally would take either saw.
 
bernithebiker said:
I started off with a Stihl MS250C 18" bar which I have had very few problems with, and I really like it.
As I sometimes get help I wanted another saw so I ordered a Husky 350. When it arrived it looked so cheaply made compared to the Stihl, and heavier, that I didn't even start it up. I sold it on at break even.

2.) No tool tensioner on Stihl - this is fantastic, no need to carry the spanner, and it's very quick and easy, twice as fast as the Husky

Thanks!

The Husky 350 is a much better saw than the MS250, much better air filtration and anti-vibe, and also a bit less plastic. It is a strurdier buildt saw, that doesn't have as high plasic feel either as the 250.
Performance in the cut is also better, especially with the 95VP/H30 narrow kerf chain that is standard at least here.

You will soon enough get tired of the tool-less chain adjuster, when doing maitenance (cleaning sprocket area and flipping the bar) on the 250C.:mad:
 
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stckciv said:
The O29 isnt any better saw than the 455. I personally would take either saw.

No, it isn't.

It is a much older construction, and the anti-vibe and air filtration really sucks. :cry:

The saw you really should have bought is the Husky 353, which is the cheapest pro quality saw around.....
 
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Myself I'd have kept the 350, it may look cheesy, but runs like a banshee!!! The 455 doesn't have that much more power, a lot more weight, and you run the bigger bar and wider chain you just lost the power advantage!
Sounds to me like with what you are doing the 350 is the ticket. The 290 is an OK saw, but thats it, it's just ok. Kinda heavy for what it is, won't do much more than the 250, its just OK, nothing more, nothing less.
Typicaly you want to flip the bar every time you change the chain, or sharpen the chain to get it to wear evenly. When the bar starts to show discoloration in the grooves, has bad burrs on the edges is ussually a good time for you to buy a new one. BTW: I am on my fourth bar on my 350 FWIW.
Andy
 
sawinredneck said:
... Typicaly you want to flip the bar every time you change the chain, or sharpen the chain to get it to wear evenly. ...
I usually flip them at the end of the day, when doing routine maitenance - and I am probably overdoing it a bit, but "too" often is way better than too seldom in this case, as it can't do any harm.
I use the raker file as requiered, to remove burrs.
 
That 455

I was at Sears last week getting a new set of tires for my ole truck. While waiting I went browsing around the store. Though I didn't see Sap anywhere I did come across a 455 Husky sitting on the shelf. The minute I seen I thought about ole Sap. I picked it up and looked it over. Didn't seem all that heavy to me. In fact I didn't really see anything wrong with it. I don't know how well the 455 cuts but that saw looked ok to me. They only had one there so I assume they probly sell the heck out of them. The rest of the rack was full of Craftsman saws that had dust all over them. That Husky looked like it just came out of the box..
 
Stihl 250 vs. 350,455 etc

It's amazing the difference in oppinions I've heard when comparing the MS250 vs the Husky 350. One salesperson at a sawshop that sells both brands told me the 250 was a better built saw. He said it had a better oiler & drive spocket system. I've heard other knowledgeable people say just the opposite. I currently own saws from both brands(for only about 2 years). I can't attest to engine life, but the Husky definitely has a better air filter system. It takes a lot longer for the husky filter to get clogged. Also the air filter seems to be of better quality & price. I can use a nylon brush on the $14 filter for my 359. I'm not supposed to brush the $22 filter on my MS310 that's looks like it's deteriorating after 8 months!

I have a friend with a 455 that likes it a lot. I picked one up at Sears & it felt better than MS310. But ergonomics are subjective. I would give your 455 at least 10 tanks of fuel before you judge the power. It seemed like my newer saws just kept getting better.
 
thanks!

Thanks for opinions and advice. I do much prefer the Stihl 250C, but I guess alot of it is personal.
Why does noone else have the quarter turn filler caps? These are so obviously the best way to do it, I'm suprised noone else has them. Maybe it's patented?
I have worn through 3 chains without flipping my bar, as I didn't know that it was a good idea. Now thanks to this website, I've flipped it, but I notice a very slight dip has worn into the bottom front edge of the bar. Otherwise, everything seems to be working fine.
How many chains should a bar last for? (approx!)
I am getting through about 1 3/16 file per chain, is that about right?
Does anyone have any opinion on breathing in non-catalysed exhaust fumes all day?! (albeit unleaded!)
Lots of questions!
Anyway, I love being out in the woods cutting - reading this forum makes me want a 361, but can I justify THREE chainsaws??!
(By the way, you guys should think yourselves lucky, prices in Europe are DOUBLE what they are in the US - crazy). This is why I buy all my stuff from US, as it still works out cheaper. Except Stihl, who won't sell to me!
 
bernithebiker said:
How many chains should a bar last for? (approx!)
I am getting through about 1 3/16 file per chain, is that about right?

Hi,

the number of chains per bar is usually quoted at four or so. That means for one bar you will normally get through 2 drive sprockets and 4 chains before replacing everything again.

How long a file lasts depends upon how you use it. It should only contact the chain when cutting i.e. forwards and be lifted off the tooth before moving back and cutting again. If you just rub the file backwards and forwards on the tooth you will ruin it quite quickly and get through quite a few files.

Bye
 
SawTroll said:
I usually flip them at the end of the day, when doing routine maitenance - and I am probably overdoing it a bit, but "too" often is way better than too seldom in this case, as it can't do any harm.
I use the raker file as requiered, to remove burrs.


Same here ,,,
 
THALL10326 said:
I picked it up and looked it over. Didn't seem all that heavy to me. In fact I didn't really see anything wrong with it. I don't know how well the 455 cuts but that saw looked ok to me. ...
Picking it up and looking it over - that's about the same experience as I have with the 455.
I don't think anyone has said that it is a really bad saw, but the fact is that it weights more than the MS361, and about the same as the 357xp/359, and it doesn't have the power to justify that weight......:cheers:

Plastic crankcase into the bargain.:mad:
 
Price

I guess what it really boils down to for me is price.
The 455 Rancher goes for $317 (compared to $680 in Europe).
The Stihl 361 is more like $500+ in US right? And in Europe, I dread to think, must be approaching $1000.
So the 455 is alot of saw for the money, and although I think the 250C is way better, the 455 is alot of bang for the buck!
 
bernithebiker said:
....The Stihl 361 is more like $500+ in US right? And in Europe, I dread to think, must be approaching $1000. ...
It ain't too bad here, the 361, 441 and 660 are sort of bargains here, and cost a lot less than comparable Huskys. :rockn:

By the way, I have used and done some maintenance on 2x250C. The plasic factor is overwhelming, and I simply doesn't like them.
The old 024AV is a much better saw, even though the air filter design stinks....
 
bernithebiker said:
I have worn through 3 chains without flipping my bar, as I didn't know that it was a good idea. Now thanks to this website, I've flipped it, but I notice a very slight dip has worn into the bottom front edge of the bar.

If this were on the bottom of the bar close to the engine, I would say this was a result of the chain not being properly tensioned. (Too loose.) Toward the tip of the bar, I can't say. Anyone else know what would do this?
 
bernithebiker said:
.... I have worn through 3 chains without flipping my bar, as I didn't know that it was a good idea. Now thanks to this website, I've flipped it, but I notice a very slight dip has worn into the bottom front edge of the bar.

Some wear at that point is pretty unavoidable, as the chain hit the rails after beeing held off them by the front sprocket. That is one of the main reasons for flipping the bar.
If it is only a slight dip after using up 3 chain without flipping, I guess that the chain tension has been pretty right on.;)

Also be sure to inspect the outer edges of the rails from time to time, and take off the burrs with a flat file (the raker file will do).
 
250 and 455

I've had a 250 and a 290. Dissappointed in both and sold them. 250 didn't oil well, and flooded 1/2 the time. 290 was largly (pun intended) a casualty because of what I learned on this site. Similar size and wieght as my modded 372, 1/2 the power. I fully understand your $$$ concerns, but if your cutting that much wood, you will appreciate a pro caliber saw. Especially one with a prefiltering system. If you don't like the 353, I'd look at a Dolmar 5100. If you like cleaning filters, a Dolmar 540. At the end of the day though, you are the only one that needs to be pleased with your choice.
 
weight

thanks for all these replies - useful stuff.
I guess I should have pointed out that weight is critical to me. I only weigh 136lbs, and although I am pretty fit, any extra weight in the saw is a drawback.
I spend up to 5 hours at a time cutting this laurel down. It is very tall (often 15-20ft, more for the 'tree' like stuff) and is mostly about 4 inches diameter (ranges from 1" to 12" mostly). I am moving around alot and cutting in all sorts of positions, head height, sideways, on the ground, etc. So the saw and I move around alot. When I switch from the Stihl 250 to the Husky 455 I really fell the extra 2.5lbs.
So as I am looking for another more 'pro' saw, any suggestions for something below 5kg (11lbs), with an 18" bar? (Or maybe I can get away with a 16"?)
Thanks!
------
MS250C, 455 Rancher, Bearcat 5" 24hp chipper
 
For mostly 4" wood, there is little doubt in my mind - Husky 346xp is the KING for that size wood. :clap:

Dolmar PS-5100 will have more power (wasted in this case), and more weight and volume. Stihl MS260 would also be good, but the old hero isn't really in the same class....

These saws are at their best with 15-16" bars, but they will handle more if you really need it (keep one as a backup).
 
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