Husky 455 vs. 55

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
So would it be accurate to say that the HL bar is a bit heavier duty? 18" is sufficient for me, but I also want what's best, since the 20" is only $5 more. Again, this is for 2 to 4 cords per year, as far as I know, plus the occasional remodeling job in the house.... :p
Does the 353 have sufficient power for a 20" bar, all things considered, or will it tend to bog down?
 
Norwalk’s
‘Husqvarna Points to Ponder’

Model 346XP:

“Super high-reving engine. The special XP cylinder and piston design provides the ultimate in high speed cutting performance. Popular with professional users that are looking for the optimum in cutting speed with very low weight. Full magnesium crankcase for great durability. We typically sell with 16” and 18” bars.”



Model 353:

“Same basic ‘chassis’ as 346XP. Magnesium crankcase combined with snap-lock top cover for easy service. The 353 has a cylinder design that provides a more ‘forgiving’ power curve (better torque) than the 346xp. The 353 is really good for tough all-around use with 16” to 20” bars. If you want a nice upgrade, go for the 20” Pro bar option.”



Model 357XP:

“The Big Brother to the 346XP. The special XP cylinder and piston design provides outstanding high-speed cutting performance. The 357XP is a great full time professional saw for Arborists and Pulp woodcutters. Super high performance in a saw that is still light in weight.”



Model 359:

“Same basic ‘chassis’ as the 357XP. A bit more ‘torquey’ in running characteristics than the 357XP. If you are looking for a great all-around 20” saw, you can’t go wrong with the 359. When you compare the price to the 357XP, the 359 is the steal of the day.”


This is abit of info for ya!
 
Thanks for all the help, guys. I have lots of questions, I know, and I forgot to ask this in an earlier post. The 353 has adjustable jets, right?
 
I guess it depends on what size firewood you are cutting. You dont really need a 20" bar for firewood unless its pretty big. 3-4 cords of firewood isnt very much. I have cut that much in a day with my 353. Others will disagree but the 353 with the narrow kerf bar and chain will probably be the fastest cutting setup. As far as heavy duty, I think both the husky bars you listed are laminated but the "hl" would be wider (heavier) than the "p" If you want a "heavier duty" bar, you could buy a solid (non-laminated) Oregon power match plus or GB pro-top. I think any of the saws you listed will do what you want to do. The 353 is definately the pro saw of the bunch. A 20" bar is probably larger than "optimum" for any of these saws but for the amount of use you are talking about it would be ok.
 
I think you made up for your previous slowness in the last 4 posts you made, Brent. LOL
I thought the 353 was considered a homeowner, though. Did I read something somewhere that was inaccurate?
Maybe I'd be better off with the 18", after all. I'm not planning on dropping any 40" oaks any time soon.
 
346xp-353 are mates as are 357xp-359. They all are pro saws with magnesium crankcases. The only differences between the two matchups are that the xps have different cylinder and piston combos. The make slightly more power at a higher rpms but have a narrower powerband. In both the 346-353 and 357-359 combo, the non xp model has more ccs and also makes max power at a lower rpm. This will give it a little more low range punch. Some people (including some pros) prefer this.
 
The 353 is a 3.3 hp saw, if you plan on using it in hardwoods you would be better off with a 16 inch bar, in softwoods 18 inch is ok. Long term with much use 20 inches seems like asking a lot out of the little 3.3 ponies.
 
With proper maintainence, any of the saws mentioned will cut 2 or 3 cords a year for a very long time. Without proper maintainence, a "pro" saw probably won't last you any longer than a "homeowner" saw. You are not really cutting enough for "homeowner" vs. "pro" saw to be an issue. Your budget constraints also seem to indicate that you are going to end up w/ a "homeowner" category saw, but there is nothing wrong with that in my opinion.
 
For me a saw is a tool and all tools be it manual, electric or gas must firts be safe, secondly appropriately sized to do the job at hand and thirdly be fun to use. Brent I agree also 16 inch is the most appropriate size overall.

You can buck some pretty big logs with a 16 inch bar and real sharp chain and have fun doing it.
 
353

Lobo said:
The 353 is a 3.3 hp saw, if you plan on using it in hardwoods you would be better off with a 16 inch bar, in softwoods 18 inch is ok. Long term with much use 20 inches seems like asking a lot out of the little 3.3 ponies.

I agree :) Even though Husky says it's OK with 20", all the saws in question are at their best with 15-16" bars. Cutting will be faster than with longer ones. Do you really need a longer one? ......16" is enough to cut 30" logs.
If you really need 20", you better get a saw in the 60 cc class!

If you occasionally need 20", I would get the saw with one 16" and one 20" bar. This also applies to 60 cc saws.
 
Husky laminated bars

brent denny said:
I think "P" is pixel, or narrow kerf. Im thinking "HL" means husqvarna laminated?

I think you are right.

Husky P (Pixel) is "rebadged" Oregon Micro-lite Pro bars in USA/CDN, and should be combinated by the excellent 95VP chain. This chain is also sold as
H 30 (Husky) and S 30 (Jred). This is probably the fastest cutting combination on the saws in question.

Husky (standard) laminated (HL?) is Oregon Pro-lite.

For the European market, Husky laminated bars are made at the previous
Jo-Bu plant, in Norway - as are all E-lux electric saws.

By the way, I agree to everything Brent posted on this tread yesterday - he was right on the mark! :blob2:
 
Back
Top