Husky 480 CD scored piston.

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gr8mac

Spring Fling
Joined
Nov 22, 2003
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Hey all. A friend was cutting with it over this past weekend and said it all of a sudden just quit, like it ran out of gas. When he checked though there was plenty of gas in it. I told him I would take a look at it. Looks like the piston is scored pretty good on the exhaust side. The rest of the cylinder looks good but I can't see much of the side where the piston is scored. Would it be possible to save the cylinder? What is the procedure for replacing the piston? Can you just take off the cylinder without having to totally dis-assemble the saw to replace it?
 
This thread is about a hockey team record. Could you please recheck and submit the thread again. Thanks.
 
If you plan on getting a new piston, make sure you get the right one, they are marked with letters like " A;B;C;D etc.".
This is for size and shape should be the same.
 
The parts you're looking for on that model went obsolete a few years back. The last part number for the piston was
501 25 04 03, and the cylinder was 501 25 02 61. You might find somebody with one still on the shelf. As far as getting aluminum off of a cylinder, muriatic acid and a q-tip will remove it. This stuff is about the most caustic stuff you can buy. If you get it on your skin it'll burn the dog outta ya, and if you breathe the fumes your grandkids will get dizzy, it'll instantly corrode most metals. So if you decide to use this stuff use extreme caution.

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Grande Dog
Master Mechanic
Discount Arborist Equipment and Tree Care Supplies
 
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Muriatic acid saved me an otherwise junk gas tank. Filled the half full w/ acid, topped it off with water. Let it sit for around 2 hours. Dumped it, rinsed, and it looked like brand new.

Ditto on the fumes. Nasty stuff. But it's cheap. $4/gallon, found it by concrete prep. supplies.

As far as prepping a cylinder, I've used 400 and 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper under a stream of warm water.

Chris B.
 
Might work

Some will laugh,but a 3-m type abrasive pad,the green ones,should polish out the aluminum residue,and not damage the hard lining.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I got the piston off the saw. It is scored on just the exhaust side, which I am assumming means it had a lean condition. Maybe he didn't have the carb not adjusted right. I was wondering how much side to side play there should be on the rod? When I grip the end of the rod (piston end) and wiggle it from side to side I get about an 1/8" of play, is this normal or too much? Thanks
 
Gmac, I think you're ok as long as there's no play up and down. Pull up and push down on the rod. There shouldn't be any play. There will be some side to side play but don't worry about it.
What diameter is the piston pin? Coud you use a piston from another model saw? The 046 has a 52mm piston also. Good luck. John
 
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Have a look at Mikes site, it seems as if 480cd, 380cd, 280cd, 180s has the same bore and stroke.
Proberbly not easyer to find, but encrease the odds a little.

Mange
 
Cylider prep

Much has been said,with regard to cylinder prep,and honing .There is much confusion about types of hones etc.In an effort to set the record straight,I am enclosing a pic.,of a precision hone,by Lisle.This is the only design of portable hone,that will recondition cylinders accurately.It has micrometer adjustment for size,and has optional stones,for silicon-nickle lining.The deglazing,and brake type hones,will only smoothout,or deglaze,they will not hone,accurately,with regards to taper and ovality.In addition,the Lisle design,will hone a blind end cyclinder,as the stones go clear to the end of the mandrel.They are not,however ,cheap.
 
I thought that ball hones were better to use on two stroke cylinders because the brake hones can damage the ports. Any truth to this?
 
Ball hones

Ball hones,will only deglaze,not resize.I have personaly never honed a plated cyclinder,but have resized a lot of iron cylinders.Plated cylinders,by design,are not resizable,unless rebored and replated.This being the case,I just make a liner of gray or ductile iron.
 
Thanks for all the great information fellas. I am going to try and post a pic of the cylinder today or tomorrow to see if you all think it is saveable. I have already done alot of hand work to it with an emery cloth. It looks like the exhaust port has a little chip off it as well as a small pit that I doubt I will be able to get out. :(
Mikes site says the cylinders for much of the older huskies is chrome plated, even the 3120. Is that accurate??? Thanks
 
Cylinder pics

Hey all. Here is a couple pics of the cylder. Can it be saved? There is some small chipping around the top left chamfer of the port, just above the top right port area is a small pit that I don't think I will be able to get out. There is also some galling below the port but I am not finished with it yet. Hopefully that will come out as well. Let me know what you think. Thanks
 
Hey all. Still working on this husky. Found everything I need except for some rings. What rings would work for this 480 CD?
 
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