Husky Clutches

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fmaglin

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So far I'm really pleased with my 395XP. Smooth running, lots of power, de- comp valve in a handy location, not too heavy; however, the one thing I don't care for is the outboard clutch. My 362 has an inboard making it easy to remove the power head if a tree should set back on the bar and you want to remove the power head. It's a rare occurance, but it can happen. Anyone know the reasoning for the out board on the 395?:confused:
 
The clutch stays cooler and the bar is closer to the center line of the saw. Also a huge pain in the butt when changing bars. On my 3120, I usually zip the clutch off with a cordless impact and install the sprocket, chain, bar and clutch in one shooting match with bars 42" and bigger. Still a pain.
 
The clutch stays cooler and the bar is closer to the center line of the saw. Also a huge pain in the butt when changing bars. On my 3120, I usually zip the clutch off with a cordless impact and install the sprocket, chain, bar and clutch in one shooting match with bars 42" and bigger. Still a pain.

I'd always liked putting the bar on with the outboard clutch. I had it down pat. I had a hard time at first putting the bar/chain on my 390's when I first switched. Maybe I'm just a slow learner!
 
I'd always liked putting the bar on with the outboard clutch. I had it down pat. I had a hard time at first putting the bar/chain on my 390's when I first switched. Maybe I'm just a slow learner!

I'd like to see somebody profecient in installing a bar and chain on a big husky, I'd love to learn something.

I just drop the chain on the bar and hang it on the sprocket, then put on the clutch cover with the 390 or 372. With a longer bar on the 3120 and an 8 pin rim (8 pin rim .404 sometimes) it's a real task for me to get a bar and chain mounted.
 
Bar on first, chain stared at the clutch laid in the rim then the rails to the nose once that is lined up put the cover on and advance the chain tension then the bar nuts. Done and done:cheers:
 
Just ask any McCulloch owner, I can do it in my sleep.

I work for Husqvana at a rework center refurbing Macs hated fitting new bars and chains to 3xx and 4xx series saws with the outboard clutch , much prefered the 7xx, 8xx and bigger saws with the inboard clutches but used to them now and now own a couple of outboard clutch Partners.

as said the outboard clutch runs cooler and is much better on the hobby plasic chainsaws as if the saw has been reved up with the chainbrake on and the clutch, and sprocket get red hot it can damage the plastic body.

seen ones that bad the clutch has blued and the spring on the centrifugal clutch has stretched and the plastic scorched making the casing a paperweight :censored: if it happens with an outboard I just fit a new clutch, sproket and chainbrake and test it
 
It seems with the full wrap macs, you put your bar on, put the chain around the clutch with your chain 90degrees below the bar. then feed the chain through the handle bar & proceed as normal. I cannot remember what its like on the 2100, but probably the same...
 
I didn't include plastic Macs, real McCullochs are made of metal. The full wrap does add an additional move, a quick chineese puzzel kinda thing with the driveside cover. The good vintage Stihls also had outboard clutchs.

DSC02190.jpg
 
flushcut has it nailed.

But I find my 3120 to be harder because of the outboard adjuster. You can't get the bar on the pin 'cause the pin ain't there yet.

I've never had a saw with an inboard clutch so I don't know any better. But I also don't have that much trouble putting a bar on a big husky (other than the 3120).
 
I didn't include plastic Macs, real McCullochs are made of metal. The full wrap does add an additional move, a quick chineese puzzel kinda thing with the driveside cover. The good vintage Stihls also had outboard clutchs.

DSC02190.jpg

Whats that Pabst doing hiding in the corner? i can make good use of it of you do not need it. . .
 
Put the chain over the sprocket, put the bar on without tangling the chain then put your knee against the bar and roll the chain over the tip and adjust as needed. It really is not complicated at all.
 
Put the chain over the sprocket, put the bar on without tangling the chain then put your knee against the bar and roll the chain over the tip and adjust as needed. It really is not complicated at all.
:agree2: Yup, that's the way I do it.
 
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