Husky sprocket blues

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Big Sach

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Im new to Husqvarna saws. I just recently got a 394 XP.

How do I change out the drive sprocket?

It is the inboard type.



Thanks all!
 
Need a piston stop to be able to break loose the bolt that holds on the clutch. I have heard some people use a small diameter rope that they put into the spark plug hole to act as a stop. There also might be a 'key' that is inbetween the crank shaft and clutch. Just something to be aware of. Good luck. I am sure there will be a lot more suggestions posted on here anyway...people who have that saw and have done what you are trying to do.

I like this blob!! ----> :blob2: Fire is good!
 
one trick my dad used in lumberjacking days was to cut a piece of wood from end of broom, so big that it just went in trought the exhaust port... but i myself prefer the rope method since its the easiest IMO...
 
The clutch has reverse threads too (left hand threads). They are designed that way so it doesn't tend to loosen from operating the saw.
Take out the spark plug, feed in some rope in the spark plug hole, turn the motor clockwise until the piston snugs up against the rope, then turn the clutch nut clockwise until it loosens up.
Outboard clutches are harder to change sprockets on, but there are easier to put the chain back on when they derail, the clutch runs cooler, and the heat from the clutch isn't transfered to the motor as much.
 
Impact wrench and a 3/4" socket. Make sure you remember it is LH thread. Piston stops break parts. Just hit it with short bursts, it will break loose.
 
Chopwood said:
Impact wrench and a 3/4" socket. Make sure you remember it is LH thread. Piston stops break parts. Just hit it with short bursts, it will break loose.

properly used, NOT..
 
blis said:
properly used, NOT..
Why not?

I was advised a long time ago -on here- that using a impact wrench was fine.
I have a small 3/8 air rachet (not much torque) and it will spin the nut off in just a couple of bursts.
If I should not do it , I would like to know.

Thanks Dan
 
danl said:
Why not?

I was advised a long time ago -on here- that using a impact wrench was fine.
I have a small 3/8 air rachet (not much torque) and it will spin the nut off in just a couple of bursts.
If I should not do it , I would like to know.

Thanks Dan
Dan
That method works but I would suggest taking of the recoil assembly off also. Because spinning it backwards can break rewind springs and pawls . Seth
IM000715.jpg
 
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danl said:
Why not?

I was advised a long time ago -on here- that using a impact wrench was fine.
I have a small 3/8 air rachet (not much torque) and it will spin the nut off in just a couple of bursts.
If I should not do it , I would like to know.

Thanks Dan

sorry for my bad quote, i was talking abou the "piston stops breaks it" part... air rachet is just fine...
 
i have used the rope method on quite a few differerent applications, and have never had a problem, like was mentioned before though, for tightening make sure the starter assembly is removed to avoid damage.

mav
 
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Mike Maas said:
The clutch has reverse threads too (left hand threads). They are designed that way so it doesn't tend to loosen from operating the saw.
Take out the spark plug, feed in some rope in the spark plug hole, turn the motor clockwise until the piston snugs up against the rope, then turn the clutch nut clockwise until it loosens up.
Outboard clutches are harder to change sprockets on, but there are easier to put the chain back on when they derail, the clutch runs cooler, and the heat from the clutch isn't transfered to the motor as much.
This is the correct method, it is outside, old style like the 266, 288 etc. Thats what I think as well, the heat is away from the engine, and it is easier to put the chain back on. I have seen the clutch get blasted off with an air wrench, always makes me cringe.
 
Mike Maas said:
Wait a minute, you say it's an inboard type? If it is, just pop off the cir-clip and washer, and slide the rim off. Reassemble in reverse order.
I thought the bigger Huskies were outboard.

Sorry for the confusion. What I mean is the clutch is outboard but the "grooved wheel" that meshes with the chains drive links are inboard.
 
Ok thanks for all the replies. But just to clarify...

Using an air gun is NOT a good idea?

I should use the manual method with rope as piston stop?

When retightning is there a torque spec. that the nut should be set to?

And when buttoning her back up remove the starter assembly to avoid damage to rewind spring and pawls?

Ps the reason Im changing this is because saw had been switched to 8 tooth sprocket and was running .404 chain with 33" bar.

To much bar for my needs. So I ordered the 28" Arbor Pro bar and Woodsman Pro 3/8" .050 full skip chain from Baileys and putting on a new 7 tooth (factory spec?) sprocket as well. Should be a good set-up eh?
 
Impact wrench and a 3/4" socket.

I believe it is a 19mm socket.

Made in Europe remember.

Old loggers trick: You can also put the chain on backwards and fire the saw up, touch it to some wood and it will loosen itself up. :cheers:
 
Originally Posted by Big Woody
Old loggers trick: You can also put the chain on backwards and fire the saw up, touch it to some wood and it will loosen itself up

How does that loosen the clutch? Does the engine not still turn in the same direction tightening the clutch when loaded?
 
Mike Maas said:
Wait a minute, you say it's an inboard type? If it is, just pop off the cir-clip and washer, and slide the rim off. Reassemble in reverse order.
I thought the bigger Huskies were outboard.

Inboard sprocket he said - that eqates to outboard clutch, which adds up.
 
3/4 inch and 19 mm are the same size like 11mm and 7/16 13mm and 1/2 there are others too just a little insight
 
I change the sprockets on my carving saws a lot. 1/4 pitch for carving bars, 3/8 or .325 for regular bars.

I use a 3/8 impact wrench, works great. Just don't hammer the clutch back on!
 
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