Chain loosening

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The nose sprocket shouldn't burred up like that should it? I don't think I have ever had a sprocket tip bar burr up that bad on the tip. On all of mine, the bottom of the chain links don't actually contact the bar rails, they ride on the sprocket itself around the end of the bar.
Agreed… (why I suggested the grease). That sprocket is either burned or it’s covered with like dark sap or something… but it needs some love for sure.
 
The nose sprocket shouldn't burred up like that should it? I don't think I have ever had a sprocket tip bar burr up that bad on the tip. On all of mine, the bottom of the chain links don't actually contact the bar rails, they ride on the sprocket itself around the end of the bar.
Will dress it and clean it with some petrol/diesel tomorrow. Any tips on how to get rid of the burs best? I'll usually hit it with a metal file "skating" across the bar.
 
Agreed… (why I suggested the grease). That sprocket is either burned or it’s covered with like dark sap or something… but it needs some love for sure.
Most likely would be covered in sap, if It is.

We've got a lot of gumtrees here, larger ones have sap "tunnels" that are absolutely huge. One of my smaller gums had a tunnel the size of my fist. Very thick and sticky sap. Impossible to get off your hands for a while. I assume can't do much good for a bar and chain if that stuff hardens up on it...
 
Most likely would be covered in sap, if It is.

We've got a lot of gumtrees here, larger ones have sap "tunnels" that are absolutely huge. One of my smaller gums had a tunnel the size of my fist. Very thick and sticky sap. Impossible to get off your hands for a while. I assume can't do much good for a bar and chain if that stuff hardens up on it...
Yeah you gotta get that off the bar/front sprocket. I’ve found degreaser to work very well for the sap in my area. Spray it on… let it sit… use a hard brush to scrub it off (but after the degreaser sits in it for a few minutes it comes off real easy). Then don’t forget to lube that baby up!
 
When the nose sprocket teeth have worn down as much as the OP`s that the chain chassis is actually riding on the bar rails around the nose then the sprocket is worn out. Just look at the burr on the rails on the end of the nose, that shows the chain chassis itself is contacting the bar rails on the nose and gouging them, time for a new bar for most folks.
 
So in conclusion, the sprocket is the most likely cause of my chain loosening issues?

If it is, I'll most likely get a new sprocket and a new chain from my nearest stihl dealer. The bar still has some life left in it.

See if a clutch drum is available that takes rim sprockets. The rims are MUCH cheaper than the combination clutch drum/spur sprocket, AND much easier to change once installed.

While you have the bar off, clean out the whole groove to the bottom, and inspect the rail surfaces where the chain rides.

The rails should be even/not worn and perpendicular to the sides of the bar. Also look for a ridge that forms from wear on the rail edges. You can touch up the rails by draw filing with a flat file, or buying a tool made to do that.

When you have the bar off to clean the bar/under the chain cover, flip the bar when reinstalling so it the chain rides/wears on both rails evenly.

That bars rails need to be dressed. Post some pictures of the rails.

Do you have vice and a large flat file to dress it?

You can make a groove cleaning tool with a LARGE long steel nail/spike. With a large hammer peen the tip flat enough to fit into the groove, then grind/file a hook into the flattened tip. Put the nail in a vice and put a bend a little above the flattened tip, in the same plane as the flattened tip. If this is not clear let me know and I can take a picture of the tool.
 
Will dress it and clean it with some petrol/diesel tomorrow. Any tips on how to get rid of the burs best? I'll usually hit it with a metal file "skating" across the bar.

The best way I've found, is using a vertical belt sander, that gets the rails perfectly square with the bar. I've saved some nastly bars that way. As I mentioned draw filing works too.

Also check the groove width, if that is worn the chain/drive links will wobble, and best to get a new bar.

PS. HF has cheapo vert belt sanders on sale now $45. What does a dressing tool cost?
 
When the nose sprocket teeth have worn down as much as the OP`s that the chain chassis is actually riding on the bar rails around the nose then the sprocket is worn out. Just look at the burr on the rails on the end of the nose, that shows the chain chassis itself is contacting the bar rails on the nose and gouging them, time for a new bar for most folks.
A new bar may be in order, yes. I'll send a picture as soon as I get home, there is a point kn the bar which has "lost" material. The actual side of the bar is missing a little metal - not a lot, only a few mm
 
See if a clutch drum is available that takes rim sprockets. The rims are MUCH cheaper than the combination clutch drum/spur sprocket, AND much easier to change once installed.

While you have the bar off, clean out the whole groove to the bottom, and inspect the rail surfaces where the chain rides.

The rails should be even/not worn and perpendicular to the sides of the bar. Also look for a ridge that forms from wear on the rail edges. You can touch up the rails by draw filing with a flat file, or buying a tool made to do that.

When you have the bar off to clean the bar/under the chain cover, flip the bar when reinstalling so it the chain rides/wears on both rails evenly.


That bars rails need to be dressed. Post some pictures of the rails.

Do you have vice and a large flat file to dress it?

You can make a groove cleaning tool with a LARGE long steel nail/spike. With a large hammer peen the tip flat enough to fit into the groove, then grind/file a hook into the flattened tip. Put the nail in a vice and put a bend a little above the flattened tip, in the same plane as the flattened tip. If this is not clear let me know and I can take a picture of the tool.
Thanks for the advice. Will clean out and dress my bar when I get home. I do have a vice and a nice file. Your description is clear enough, thank you :)
 
Oregon I think it is makes a tool specifically for lubing the front sprocket. Basically it’s a syringe filled with heavy grease that inserts through the hole in the bar behind the front sprocket.

After I’ve degreased my chains and bar and cleaned it all up I always lube lube lube them including the front sprocket with heavy grease (not WD-40, not motor oil not something that’s gonna run out of there quickly). So while you’re waiting for parts and have it all apart you might shove as much heavy grease into that front sprocket as you can.
Those are good little grease guns, cheap easy to find and work well, just messy to reload and should come with a caution to clean the crud out of the lub hole with a toothpick before greasing or the crud will be forced into the bearing.
I have switched to a spray can of Lucas motorcycle chain lube, the spray tube fits the lube hole well enough to inject the lube and it comes out as a thin oil that gets into the bearing easily and as the solvent out gases, it turns to a good grease. Good to use for a lot of other things, car door hinges, garage door guide wheels, etc.
 
Those are good little grease guns, cheap easy to find and work well, just messy to reload and should come with a caution to clean the crud out of the lub hole with a toothpick before greasing or the crud will be forced into the bearing.
I have switched to a spray can of Lucas motorcycle chain lube, the spray tube fits the lube hole well enough to inject the lube and it comes out as a thin oil that gets into the bearing easily and as the solvent out gases, it turns to a good grease. Good to use for a lot of other things, car door hinges, garage door guide wheels, etc.
Hahahaha you had me at motorcycle ! 🤣

They put a lot of tech into their chain lubes.., just like our saws dirt kills chains, right? They make a kind of lube for bikes that go in the dirt that sticks to the chain but repels dirt from sticking to it, a kind for rain, a kind for street bikes that is extra sticky with the assumption that you’re not banging away through the desert—finally they make a super lightweight slick AF race chain lube that rotates fast as hell but only stays on for a day because racers service their bikes every single time they put them on the track—loads of work but tenths of a second between top of the box and not in the points so they’re doing every single absurd thing they can do to keep their sponsors and keep their job… I’ll have to look for that Lucas chain lube… goes on thin and then firms up like grease… thanks for the pro-tip! It’s amazing what they’re making these days!

Walked into my garage and what to you know I got the Offroad the factory and the racing right here 🤣🤣🤣

1726793802469.jpeg
 
The bar oil will lube the sprocket tip. Grease is entirely unnecessary. This seems to be debated by some, yet pros in the field discovered this a long, long, long time ago. The first time I saw someone grease their tip (it was a brand new stihl solid bar), I had no idea what was going on. That fellow stopped doing that before the end of that project. He realized his tip was running too hot.

That's why Stihl stopped putting grease ports in their tips. Not necessary whatsoever.

A snow ski edge sharpening file holder works well as a bar dresser file guide. I flat filed mine for years before I went "duh", I have a perfect tool for this already.
 
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