Husq 266XP drive me to drink. Tequila's good, but...

[Rick Stephens]

Did u do a carb kit? Just cuz it was a new carb, doesnt mean that one was good either...

I did not kit the AM replacement carb, although I did completely disassemble several times and check it through, run the ports. The original Tillotson was kitted

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012HFQAHW?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
Oem tillotson hs260a
I had trouble with a new am on my 266
This cured it
40.00

Grand idea. If was my saw, I would not have stuck an AM carb. Owner wanted, or at least pointed out, the cheap solution.

I had similar issues with my 268XPS when I first got it.

I did the regular things most well used saws need, carb kit, fuel line, fuel filter, tank vent, intake gaskets and no improvement whatsoever. Compression as fine and actually so high it really needs a compression release.

Did crank seals next, no better.

I went back to the carb and turns out there was some crap floating around in it. Got it all cleaned up and it's been flawless since.......Cliff

When I get time, I am going to pull the AM carb, swap the throttle shaft back over to the original Tillotson and try it again. That has a new carb kit in it, owner had purchased and installed. From looking at the needle lever, his kit appears to be typical AM chinese junk, so I may find a Tillotson kit and try again.


Thanks to all. I will be back. My apologies for the slow progress, I am building a new welding business up and my time is not in my control most days.

 

[Czed]

I did not kit the AM replacement carb, although I did completely disassemble several times and check it through, run the ports. The original Tillotson was kitted



Grand idea. If was my saw, I would not have stuck an AM carb. Owner wanted, or at least pointed out, the cheap solution.



When I get time, I am going to pull the AM carb, swap the throttle shaft back over to the original Tillotson and try it again. That has a new carb kit in it, owner had purchased and installed. From looking at the needle lever, his kit appears to be typical AM chinese junk, so I may find a Tillotson kit and try again.


Thanks to all. I will be back. My apologies for the slow progress, I am building a new welding business up and my time is not in my control most days.

I know the feeling I've had overall good results with am carbs
But the ones that didn't work couldn't be fixed

 

[SteveSr]

When I get time, I am going to pull the AM carb, swap the throttle shaft back over to the original Tillotson and try it again.

That OEM throttle shaft not being there may be the issue to not being able to set the part throttle starting position which would make cold starting very difficult. That is how Stihl's work. Not sure about Huskys

 

[Rick Stephens]

That OEM throttle shaft not being there may be the issue to not being able to set the part throttle starting position which would make cold starting very difficult. That is how Stihl's work. Not sure about Huskys

What happened, is I took the OEM throttle shaft, plate and linkage off the OEM carb and installed on the AM carb. The AM carb has diferent linkage and idle screw. In fact the OEM link above also has the wrong one. This saw has an idle screw installed in the saw case that rides against a angled tab on the linkage. All the replacement carbs I have seen have an idle screw mounted on the carb. There is no access for that type to adjust it, so I pulled a swap. There is literally no connection from choke to throttle plate at all. even on the original carburetor.

THanks!

Rick

 

[Old2stroke]

There is literally no connection from choke to throttle plate at all. even on the original carburetor.

Is there some other way of advancing the throttle for cold starting and fast idle? Two stroke engines with these type of carbs will usually NOT start with a closed throttle. Also, when an engine is hot and won't start at idle setting with 2 or 3 pulls, the throttle has to be advanced or you can pull for a long time to get it started.

 

[Sam R]

The Homelite SXL has a cruise control button, does this have something like that? Maybe your saw is just touchy; 250s can flood after about 2 pulls on full choke, for example. I've seen so many of those come back to the shop "Don't run." because they yanked on it full choke so many times they got a swimming pool in the clamshell.

 

[albert]

It should have a fast latch on the rear handle, in front of the interlock.
Squeeze the throttle and pull it back with your thumb

 

[Rick Stephens]

It should have a fast latch on the rear handle, in front of the interlock.
Squeeze the throttle and pull it back with your thumb

You are correctomundo. I missed that entirely. It is old and really touchy, but it does what you say. I was giving it full throttle in the cut to try and start. This is more better!

Is there some other way of advancing the throttle for cold starting and fast idle? Two stroke engines with these type of carbs will usually NOT start with a closed throttle. Also, when an engine is hot and won't start at idle setting with 2 or 3 pulls, the throttle has to be advanced or you can pull for a long time to get it started.

Absolutely. Now I need it to start when i pull it cold, hot, warm or whatever. Fun stuff. I don't give up though.

 

[Bret4207]

Just a thought, does this 266 still have the factory screen in the muffler? Have you been inside the muffler to make sure it's open and clean and not full of mud daubers nests and such?

My money is on the trigger not being locked halfway open as a main problem. Also, check the carb mounting block that goes to the jug and make sure the holes all line up right and are clear.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Went back to carburetor basics. Started over on the original Tillotson OEM carb. Reset the needle lever according to da book. Re-did the cleaning. Reset the adjustments to 1 turn. Pulled the throttle shaft and plate back out of the AM carb and installed back. Replaced the spark plug, just to make sure.

@Bret4207 - I had made gaskets for the manifold earlier. Spent an unseemly hour or so making those perfect. This saw leaked EVERYWHERE when I got it. It has no leaks and the passages line up.

Good news is, tequila still tastes excellent even when this dang saw RUNS. I took apart the handle and cleaned and adjusted the high idle as noted, so it would actually hold. Only thing I see is the carb adjustments are really sensitive. I'll spend some time with a tach on it next, then get it set in the cut before going back to its owner.

Thank you all for the great advice. Motto: Never quit!

Rick

 

[Husky Man]

I Hope that you got it figured out, I have checked at least 6 times to make sure it was a Husky 266XP that was giving you so much trouble

I bought my 266 new in '91, and I have named it "Old Reliable" for a Reason, Dayum I Stihl can't believe that it is a 266 giving you all that Grief .

Mine likes the throttle lock, with the choke from cold, Rarely takes 3 pulls, usually first or second pull, especially if I am Quick about cancelling the choke, as soon as it starts.

I guess that even a 266 can be as Ornery as a Mule on occasion



Doug

 

[Rick Stephens]

I Hope that you got it figured out, I have checked at least 6 times to make sure it was a Husky 266XP that was giving you so much trouble

I bought my 266 new in '91, and I have named it "Old Reliable" for a Reason, Dayum I Stihl can't believe that it is a 266 giving you all that Grief .

Mine likes the throttle lock, with the choke from cold, Rarely takes 3 pulls, usually first or second pull, especially if I am Quick about cancelling the choke, as soon as it starts.

I guess that even a 266 can be as Ornery as a Mule on occasion



Doug

Thanks for checking back. I got it back to its owner. In the end I re-re-rebuilt the OEM Tillotson carb as the main issue. First attempt at swapping it out for an AM one was not a winner. Replaced most of the seals and got it to pass pressure test. It had major leaks at the intake and under the flywheel. Certainly built a brute. Owner run a machine shop and has a lot of acreage he has to maintain - was in the throes of burning slash piles after logging it off. Missed his 266.

 

[BGE541]

One or two piece coil? That was the issue with mine... also check and make sure timing is correct a lot of 266_ get messed around and can throw things off. Make pull the plug and flip the saw upside down sometimes they can hold fuel in the crank and basically stay flooded...

 

[Rick Stephens]

One or two piece coil? That was the issue with mine... also check and make sure timing is correct a lot of 266_ get messed around and can throw things off. Make pull the plug and flip the saw upside down sometimes they can hold fuel in the crank and basically stay flooded...

I worked my tail off rewiring the 2 piece coil. All the wires were shot.

Turns out the owner switched the order on the diaphragm gasket, which was the main reason it was flooding. And it leaked from damn near every gasket and seal on the saw. It took going through everyrthing to fix that thing. Never did look at timing.

 

[Huskybill]

All, most of the older husky saws have been the most reliable. Sounds like the owner screwed it up first. You a good man for hanging in there. There’s a great bunch of guys here willing to help us through problems.

Tip, Remember if it’s got good spark, getting gas good flow it has to run. I ran into two strokes and four strokes getting gas washed pistons when they continuously flood. Pulling the spark plug and cranking the saw will unflood it if itsvthat bad. Them I drop a few drops of two stroke oil to reseal and lube the rings. I have brought the older engines back to life many times. Hang in there. With most of my adventures with old mowers clean the points, clean the carb and 99.99% run.

I’m no pro but still learning all the time. I took in one cub cadet that didn’t run the orginal owner took the condenser off the points. Lol