husqvarna 141 1998-2000 clutch

[dougn1lqs]

recently bought a used chainsaw , husqvarna 141 made in 1998 , it runs well ,i was told it could use a new drive sprocket so i ordered one and while I was going to change sprocket i decided to change the clutch as well. I ordered the complete clutch on line which came today. the clutch has three parts and one spring the part 530 01 49-49 matched the diagram except that it came dissassembled and I dont see how i can get this together even with a vise. I havent seen the clutch on the chainsaw so Iam not certain if i was sent the wrong clutch . Iam replacing the drive sprocket with a power mate from oregon . any tips would be appreciated
Doug

 

[Kenskip1]

Yes Doug, when removing the clutch from the crankshaft it is a left hand thread.I use a drift punch and a hammer and give it a hard wrap and it will generally come off. I would inspect the needle cage and if OK, I would re grease it. Ken

 

[dougn1lqs]

thank you ken,i have the instructions for taking it apart.,its putting the clutch parts together with the spring that holds it together,.like i said I was expecting it to come assembled .,I see with other chainsaw clutches they have more than one spring and you can put it in a vice and work it that way , baileys told me its not an issue ,

 

[FullCry]

If it's the kind of clutch that has one spring that forms a circle in side the shoes, then you put the shoes on, thread the spring through the slots or holes then I use needle nose pliers and or screwdriver to hook the two ends together.

 

[dougn1lqs]

chainsaw clutch spring for husky141

well an hour and a little blood later and I got the clutch spring and counter plates together and completed the drive sprocket and clutch replacement on my new old husquvana 141 built in 1998'. the only way I was able to do it was with two pairs of vise grips and one flat screw driver..its not easy but it is doeable

 

[bonez10]

hey
can i get the instructions to dissassemble/ assemble the clutch/ drive sprocket?

 

[dougn1lqs]

drive sprocket change out

the threads on the clutch has left hand threads to LOOSEN turn CLOCKWISE to tighten turn counterclockwise some models have a nut that holds the assembly together(reverse threads too) but on most the center of the clutch is threaded. an easy way to hold the crankshaft from turning is to take a lenght of 1/2 in soft nylon rope(double braid) say 10 inches long burn the ends so it doesnt fray but do not make a large hard end! just enough to seal it. feed this rope thru the spark plug hole and fill the cyl space above the piston(try to have piston on down stroke) now when you turn the clutch the piston will compress the rope against the top of the cyl assy. holding the crankshaft in place. many small engine/chainsaw manufactures recommend this procedure as it is safe. of course if it is frozen or stuck use proper caution. you can remove the rewind and hold the flywheel using a strap wrench(do NOT use a bar or screwdriver, etc to hold the cooling fins they WILL BREAK). Be careful even when using the strap wrench as on some models you can damage starter components. most saw manufacturers have a special holding fixtue, or a flywheel puller you can also use to hold the crankshaft from moving. I try the rope method first and unless you have a uncommonly stubborn clutch that method works great. as far as turning the clutch(if not nut style or flats on clutch for wrench) try a strapwrench here also. if you have access to a surface near the center of the clutch try using a punch or flat piece of metal stock, and use a hammer to give it a sharp blow (clockwise). this will usually break the clutch free in 1-3 hits. use caution so you dont damage clutch and do not pound on the outside weak part of clutch. you can also remove outer springs/shoes to access a safe place to tap on or place a wrench.again most saw manufactures have a 'CLUTCH ' wrench. If clutch is bad and your replacing doesnt matter. since you have clutch/sprocket/rim off saw inspect seal and thrust washer/bearings if any, replace if they look bad. always replace the sprocket/rim bearing(one that allows sprocket and rim to move freely) they are cheap and cause problems if they fail. use the above methods to tighten the clutch/nut when done. pay attention to any spacer(s) or washers. many replacement sprocket/rim/clutch assy.'s have a different look and use different parts pay attention to instructions with kit as assembly order,# of parts may be different. also make sure that the sprocket pitch is the same as old one. husqvarna has used different pitches on the same model saw(your old chain/bar may not be compatible) make sure you grease the sprocket/rim bearing regardless if new or your original. you do NOT have to crank the clutch(nut) on super tight as the reverse threads will actually try to tighten it when running. use approximately (little more)the same torque as you would for the bar retaining nuts.if your are worried give it a few taps to tighten just as you did when loosening. I have always used the low strenght lock tite, but it is not neccessary. Inspect your old chain as it may have sharp edges from running against the old sprocket(worn drive teeth) and can cause premature sprocket failure good luck hope this helps remember the THREADS ARE LEFT HANDED OR REVERSE FROM STANDARD
Source(s):
omc master tech 25 plus years
fleet operator/ mechanic
saw mechanic 26 years

 

[bonez10]

thanks ill have to work on that tonight

 

[dougn1lqs]

your welcome ,putting the clutch counter weights and spring togetther is the hardest part, I used to vise grips a flat screw driver and alot of patience