Well i decided to buy my first husqvarna saw and it a 2100. I have absolutely no knowledge of husqvarna saws. It runs and oils but i dont have a husqvarna bar for it right now. Just wanting advice or thing to look out for.
Husqvarna 2100 want advice
- Thread starter Mafun464
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Get a stihl mount bar and an adapter. Wish I went that rout rather then husqy mount bars that I can't swap to my stihls.
Bar adapters are a pain with the amount you need to extend the slot in the bar to work, then when you want to run a different legnth, or run it on a different husky with a wider stud spacing, guess what, more grinding...
I personally much rather just have the proper mount, and don't care if it doesn't swap, but I have no shortage of saws, bars or chains.
I personally much rather just have the proper mount, and don't care if it doesn't swap, but I have no shortage of saws, bars or chains.
You give up a lot of chain adjustment with an adapter. I have 36" Stihl on a 395 and it is not good. I cut with it today (Monday) but it will be pulled soon
Grab a 114dl stihl chain and have at it. I'm apparently not made of money like you guys. The adapter solves an issue.
j-jock
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Nice looking 2100. I have plenty of both bars now, but when I bought my first Husky, all I had was Stihl bars, and my twin powerhead bar for my Alask mill, was designed for Stihl powerheads.
I used large cotter pin for each mount. I just bent the cotter pin completely around the first pin, and wound the cotter pin around the second post, by running the remaining portion of the cotterpin diagonally to the second post, and then wrapping the pin around the post, trimming the end, so that it would fit tightly. It worked absolutely fine, until I purchased a bandsaw and sold the saws and bar.
I deeply regretted selling the 2100s, and purchased a couple more.
The bar is in better condition than it appears, it has been well maintained and done a lot of work.
Bob
I used large cotter pin for each mount. I just bent the cotter pin completely around the first pin, and wound the cotter pin around the second post, by running the remaining portion of the cotterpin diagonally to the second post, and then wrapping the pin around the post, trimming the end, so that it would fit tightly. It worked absolutely fine, until I purchased a bandsaw and sold the saws and bar.
I deeply regretted selling the 2100s, and purchased a couple more.
The bar is in better condition than it appears, it has been well maintained and done a lot of work.
Bob
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Go ahead and give it a whirl. I have a bit of experience with them .................Not good....
Awesome. Yeah grandfather always talked highly of 2100. So even being a big stihl guy decided to buy one to run. Mine need a little bit of tuning and maybe a carb kit just for my own sanity.
Or in my usual fashion tear entire saw apart and replace what i can that needs it
Well took the pull start off found a broken pawl and removed it any good recommendations for a replacement i need the spring and pawl. Also should i pull the flywheel and inspect anything or just leave it on? The on off switch doesnt work but use to this with 056 stihls.
Well i repaired the on off switch just need a new end on the kill switch. Now working on better tuning. Since i got this saw out of east coast of canada and now it here pnw.
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