Husqvarna 266 clutch

[Captain Bruce]

Looking for the correct procedure to install a clutch, on a 266. This is the coarse thread 1/2" crankshaft...the clutch is closed, with a small hole drilled in the center. It doesn't tighten past the end of the crankshaft, it bottoms out. Piston stop in place, I tighten with a socket and handle. I have tightened it twice, and it has come off twice....... LOCTITE? Torque wrench?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

So, threads are worn stretched- or you just aint tight enough yet.
Tried the old up to full RPM and engage the chain brake method yet?

 

[Captain Bruce]

So, threads are worn stretched- or you just aint tight enough yet.
Tried the old up to full RPM and engage the chain brake method yet?

I was expecting an engineer with the proper torque value.......but this fellow tinker named it....al the same, I'd enjoy some other suggestions. I'm thinking the clutch to tightened as far as the crank will allow, yet not enough?

 

[singinwoodwackr]

All of here that I’ve seen are pooched out and cracked from being torqued down hard. I have several here…
Design flaw?

 

[Captain Bruce]

So, threads are worn stretched- or you just aint tight enough yet.
Tried the old up to full RPM and engage the chain brake method yet?

The threads are OEM. This is a new/2nd clutch. Wear/stretch requires extended stresses. The clutch threads, and crank threads have been cleaned, and Loctite applied. The clutch was held against a piston stop, and tightened with the proper tool. Lets see how that works out, tomorrow. Happy Beaver Moon

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Looking for the correct procedure to install a clutch, on a 266. This is the coarse thread 1/2" crankshaft...the clutch is closed, with a small hole drilled in the center. It doesn't tighten past the end of the crankshaft, it bottoms out. Piston stop in place, I tighten with a socket and handle. I have tightened it twice, and it has come off twice....... LOCTITE? Torque wrench?

As I recall (I’ll double check service manual tomorrow at work) max torque on clutch is 29 foot pounds. Same for flywheel nut. If the hub is cracked it needs to be replaced. The threads on hub and crank must be absolutely clean and free of any debris/oil.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

As I recall (I’ll double check service manual tomorrow at work) max torque on clutch is 29 foot pounds. Same for flywheel nut. If the hub is cracked it needs to be replaced. The threads on hub and crank must be absolutely clean and free of any debris/oil.

I’ve always wondered about grinding 20-30 thousandths (or more) off the end of the crank to see it it would help.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I was expecting an engineer with the proper torque value.......but this fellow tinker named it....al the same, I'd enjoy some other suggestions. I'm thinking the clutch to tightened as far as the crank will allow, yet not enough?

Clutch hub = 22-29ft-lb's if you need specific values.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Guy just showed in my chainsaw repair group that you can take the newer oem or aftermarket and redo them for coarse.

He will make guys there in the group them when needed.

Ya he got skills like that and from east coast states.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Guy just showed in my chainsaw repair group that you can take the newer oem or aftermarket and redo them for coarse.

He will make guys there in the group them when needed.

Ya he got skills like that and from east coast states.

That became pretty much "industry standard" for when the coarse thread hub clutch became NLA- swap the shoes and spring from the fine thread clutch on to old coarse thread hubs- several references on here about doing so.
But if Bruce has already tried a couple of coarse thread hubs on his saw- but they are still coming loose- swapping out the friction material wont solve his problem.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

That became pretty much "industry standard" for when the coarse thread hub clutch became NLA- swap the shoes and spring from the fine thread clutch on to old coarse thread hubs- several references on here about doing so.
Bit if Bruce has already tried a couple of coarse thread hubs on his saw- but they are still coming loose- swapping out the friction material wont solve his problem.

This isnt swapping them like the old way. Notice newer style clutch is COARSE now, no swapping the old into that.

He drills then taps coarse.

But if his old crank is screwed. Yep Screwed.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I even preferred the newer style on my 61. But didnt have to do anything being newer crank.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

This isnt swapping them like the old way. Notice newer style clutch is COARSE now, no swapping the old into that.

He drills then taps coarse.

But if his old crank is screwed. Yep Screwed.

So he is filling, drilling and coarse thread tapping new style clutches?
Yes that will work- sounds uneconomic- but will certainly work if you have the tooling.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

So he is filling, drilling and coarse thread tapping new style clutches?
Yes that will work- sounds uneconomic- but will certainly work if you have the tooling.

Dont need to fill. Already did it and shown in my CRG with video. Bore and tap he said even China made tap can do it that he used.

He just giving guys out there options over the old stuff.

 

[82F100SWB]

Put the clutch on, bar the thing up, bring the revs up and hit it with the brake a couple times. It should be plenty tight then. Put it to work to make sure it's good and tight.
It will remove itself when you come off the throttle if you don't use the brake or cut with it right away.

 

[Captain Bruce]

As I recall (I’ll double check service manual tomorrow at work) max torque on clutch is 29 foot pounds. Same for flywheel nut. If the hub is cracked it needs to be replaced. The threads on hub and crank must be absolutely clean and free of any debris/oil.

Thanks for this setting. I did put a torque wrench and socket set to 25 lbs, and checked that its on tight. No problem after that. Thanks Fellas!

Can someone direct me to any thread regarding the oil tank vent? I put 1/2 a tank of oil in, and it simply drools out overnite. All of the muffler screws are tight. The entire oil pump fixture has been replaced, and snugged down. The Shop is heated. At first I suspected the tank was pressurizing from the warmth. I tried leaving the cap loose overnite.....still drooled out. The parts diagram doesn't show the location of the vent, which appears to thread in, from the pump side....I don't see it. Has anyone shared this oil leak? Where should I be looking? Do any of the screws that enter the tank, require sealant?

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Early 266
Oil tank vent on top
Have you figured out where, exactly, the oil is coming from?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Thanks for this setting. I did put a torque wrench and socket set to 25 lbs, and checked that its on tight. No problem after that. Thanks Fellas!

Can someone direct me to any thread regarding the oil tank vent? I put 1/2 a tank of oil in, and it simply drools out overnite. All of the muffler screws are tight. The entire oil pump fixture has been replaced, and snugged down. The Shop is heated. At first I suspected the tank was pressurizing from the warmth. I tried leaving the cap loose overnite.....still drooled out. The parts diagram doesn't show the location of the vent, which appears to thread in, from the pump side....I don't see it. Has anyone shared this oil leak? Where should I be looking? Do any of the screws that enter the tank, require sealant?

Viewed from rear of saw- vent in muffler cavity, hard left of case.
Need to remove muffler to get a good look at it.

Having said that- I would be suspecting oil pick up line to pump not getting a good seal before blaming the vent.