Husqvarna 266 clutch

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Its all on me. I cut corners, and when the saw vomited all the bar oil, I learned better.
So, the muffler screws pass into the oil tank. I wonder about thread wear on those bores, and some sort of sealant? More on that later.
The front bar stud was sloppy. I cleaned the tank out and put the same stud back in place, and tapped it into place. Again, thats an error. IF its worn down to not seating in the tank port, than its bad. I put a band-aid on the problem.....instead of the proper solution.
It gets better. I replaced the original oil pump, with chinesium. Photos show the cheese-ball crank seal distorted at once.
The provided oil line failed to seal, both at the tank grommet, and at the pump. Pure, unadulterated garbage is not a short-cut.

SO, I have ordered an OEM NIP oil pump kit from Barrys. I have also order new studs. Hers where I need some advice. Is any type of sealer going to work on those muffler screws? The stud? The oil hose? I have Permatex, silicone, clear glue, etc. When this unit goes back together, I sincerely want to avoid a third go around at this oil leak.
 
The studs don't really wear out...the hole does if they get loosened up and not fixed. The case can also crack at the mount hole so check for that. They are a press fit so if when in all the way they aren't tight you'll need a new case half, or, you can try JB welding the thing in place if not too loose.
If you try that, prep is everything...Uber clean, no paint and roughed up for a solid bond.

The through-hole, lower muffler mount, if angered out, can be heli-coiled back to m5x.8 and with red locktite.

Pics?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top