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make sure that you tighten the screws in evenly ,or they
will wedge against the cylinder face at an angle on the side
you turned in first
will wedge against the cylinder face at an angle on the side
you turned in first
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New crank seals.......but......did you also replace the o-ring in the seal carrier on the flywheel side? Also the oil pump (which carries the PTO side seal) is o-ringed to the case as well. These are the same part number and are special orings that must be sourced from Husqvarna......not your average auto parts store orings. Excellent chance for an air leak if not replaced. Just a suggestion.....
I bought extrs for my 181se,and 162,266 series saws.Husky is dropping lots of the
old parts for thes old gems that were so fond of
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Yep I keep a few for this family and some for the 262 family too.......perhaps I should stock up a bit more.....if you can't get those O-rings the saw is pretty much done.....not something you can get used like many other parts....
keep the vids coming,I have a 910e and enjoyed you & spike 60s series &the 630 as I also
have a couple of 162s
I always just barely bump them up snug on the lowest setting of my impact, being reverse thread means the clutch is forced tighter by the crank turning against it anyways.
Make sure and have a plug in the hole to use the compression to your advantage. I don’t like using mechanical piston stops, as I have seen rods on lesser saws get bent by mechanical piston stops, but never by using the compression to force against.
I have done 100+ saws this way and never had an issue...
Others would probably disagree that I am doing it wrong, but if there is a hex surface on the clutch, I like to use a light impact on it. I do the same thing to remove the clutch, using a spark plug in the chamber for compression to assist me with a cushion to the crank that way.
Make sure and have a plug in the hole to use the compression to your advantage. I don’t like using mechanical piston stops, as I have seen rods on lesser saws get bent by mechanical piston stops, but never by using the compression to force against.
I have done 100+ saws this way and never had an issue...
Others would probably disagree that I am doing it wrong, but if there is a hex surface on the clutch, I like to use a light impact on it. I do the same thing to remove the clutch, using a spark plug in the chamber for compression to assist me with a cushion to the crank that way.
Sure thing, your method works fine on these big saws, just don’t do that on the ones with little rods, particularly the small Stihl and Husky clamshells with stamped rods....
They really don’t have to be that tight at all because of the reverse thread direction..... spark plug and impact = quick and easy
They really don’t have to be that tight at all because of the reverse thread direction..... spark plug and impact = quick and easy
Eric howes
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A 268 or 272 carb will work, only thing that is different is the idle adjustment. If you use one of those carbs you will have to remove the top cover. But no big deal
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If you get the later adjustment guide tunnel with a carb for a 269/272 you can simply cut an opening in early top cover to accept it. Then you don't have to remove the cover to adjust the idle. First pic shows the idle adjustment tunnel inside the carb area. The second, the cut out from the outside. (Same saw...different variations/times/intakes)
Eric howes
ArboristSite Operative
I believe the jonsered 630 has a similar type carb as the original type 266 carb. The idle adjustment is even the same . But a cool feature about the 630 carb is the high idle is set on the choke. Might need to use the jonsered choke lever as well
Eric howes
ArboristSite Operative
I might add that the 268/272 carbs have a different intake block and carb bolts that you will need if you go that route. The jonsered 630 will be the same intake block
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The early ones were but after the case change (two piece ign to one piece) they too, did away with the in case idle adjuster and went with the taper headed on carb adjuster. All the carbs for all the Jonsereds of this family use the same choke activated high idle and all the Husky carbs use the trigger lock high idle......the 61 Husky in the previous pics has both as it runs the 250A 670 Jonsered carb on the husky frame/tank/trigger assembly. One of the funniest things was the choke pull.....the Husky pull would not work with the Jered configured carb.....I was puzzeled for a time as I didn't at the time have an extra Jonsered pull.....but after a while it came to me...I simply flipped the Husky pull upside down and it worked fine...LOL!!!
Eric howes
ArboristSite Operative
My 630 has that style carb, I thought about putting in on my 266. Is the 630 carb smaller? Would that carb choke up the 266?
