Husqvarna 272XP - Won't Run Right

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a1els

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I'm at my wit's end with this chainsaw. Maybe I'm missing something obvious? I'm looking for some potential new things to try to revive it, and any other advice from the experts here!

Here's the story. I bought this Husqvarna 272XP off off ebay with a scored piston, at the same time as a 372xp, also scored. I decided that I'd rebuild then 272 with the cheapest parts I can find, and I'd rebuild the 372 with OEM parts, then compare the performance.

To my surprise, with replacement piston and cylinder both saws turned out really nicely and ran excellent! For a while at least. And since the 272 was more of the "disposable" saw I actually ended up using it almost exclusively. Frankly, the 272 ran just as good as the 372, and I think it felt more maneuverable in my hands. This thing ran awesome!

I was actually amazed, because the parts I used were obviously not top shelf. For example, the cylinder initially wouldn't even fit on/in the top of the crankcase, so I had to file with a hand file all the way around, so it would fit. Crazy, but somehow it all worked.

A couple of years later...

I was clearing out a bunch of scotch broom with the 272 -- yeah I know -- I was younger and stronger and dumber back then. And I didn't have a smaller saw.
I've been running it for a while with absolutely no issues.

All of a sudden, in an instant the sound it made changed. It didn't shut down, but it could only idle. No power whatsoever - couldn't even cut the 1 inch broom. When I pull the trigger to give it full throttle, it would sputter and start to die. It would still idle, but that's all it could do.

Since then, I think I've thrown everything I had at this and I couldn't figure out what's going on.

I pulled the cylinder - it wasn't scored. Still, I replaced it with a brand new cylinder and piston. I rebuilt the carb. Started right up, but it did exactly the same f*n thing. It would only idle, no power at all.

Any thoughts on what could be going on? What am I missing?
 
A couple of pictures of the little rascal.
 

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Check for an air leak?, do a P/V test if you can,
Thank you for the note!

I did a pressure test - it was 120 both before and after I replaced the piston and cylinder. Disappointing with all the work and expense.

I don't know how to check for air leaks... But what would be the faulty component? A cracked case or something else?
 
Thank you for the note!

I did a pressure test - it was 120 both before and after I replaced the piston and cylinder. Disappointing with all the work and expense.

I don't know how to check for air leaks... But what would be the faulty component? A cracked case or something else?
Crank seals , carb intake gaskets especially aftermarket ones , and base gasket ,
 
+1 on squareground3691’s comment.

Lucky to have made it this far w/o doing air testing on the crankcase for leaking gaskets & shaft seals.

It also could be a hole in the fuel pickup line
 
Thank you for the note!

I did a pressure test - it was 120 both before and after I replaced the piston and cylinder. Disappointing with all the work and expense.

I don't know how to check for air leaks... But what would be the faulty component? A cracked case or something else?
I think you're confusing a pressure/vac test with a compression test.

Once you rule out there is not an air leak, you should start to look at the coil.
 
Thank you for the note!

I did a pressure test - it was 120 both before and after I replaced the piston and cylinder. Disappointing with all the work and expense.

I don't know how to check for air leaks... But what would be the faulty component? A cracked case or something else?
Ur talking compression test 120 ?
 
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