Husqvarna 335XPT oiler

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Hi All - I have purchased a Husqvarna 335XPT off ebay and the thing has erery affliction known to man wrong with it - it is a :censored: long story but I am looking for a decent photo of the oiler adjuster bolt/screw - the part numbers are

537 05 68 01 - Bolt adjuster
503 97 81 02 - Spring
503 97 82 01 - Washer or o ring
(not sure if the last to part numbers are the right way round or not)

Now I have straightened the oil pump shaft - dont ask:dizzy: - the seller was a blacksmith not an engineer, I am looking at fabricating the part as I can't get hold of the part easily - I am UK based.

Thanks in advance and any help appreciated.

Spud
 
I need an image of the actual part if possible, I have seen the IPL and have an idea of what the part is like but an image will allow me to form a bolt to make my own part up and reasonably accurately.

The part is shared by the Husky 339 as well

Anybody out there got a 335/339 in bits - take a photo of the oiler adjuster - you know we all like them!!

Cheers anyway

Spud
:blob2: I like this new little fella - kinda cute isn't he
 
yeah if that stock adjuster bolt doesn't have the nylon washer clipped under the casing, you eventually lose the bolt. You can make a simple fixed one (non adjustable)that screws in tight so as not to loosen without having the nylon washer. 6mm allen head bolts, the thinner you make them the more oil it'll use. Gotta remove the clutch to fit them

bolxp.jpg
 
yeah if that stock adjuster bolt doesn't have the nylon washer clipped under the casing, you eventually lose the bolt. You can make a simple fixed one (non adjustable)that screws in tight so as not to loosen without having the nylon washer. 6mm allen head bolts, the thinner you make them the more oil it'll use. Gotta remove the clutch to fit them

Thats the little blighter - thanks - at least I know what it should look like now - I will have to improvise some sort of locking device but am good with stuff like that. Removal of the clutch is no problem, the saw is completely in bits on the bench, found it had been seized and reassembled with a new ring and the aluminium transfer still present....clever, the flywheel key severely damaged, a bent oiler shaft and a knackerd sprocket and the oiler adjuster missing - bloke said spares or repair - think I should have known not to buy from a bloke with a large red nose, white makeup, a big smiley face, baggy trousers and big shoes - youve got it....a right clown!!!

Still - I like a challenge

Thanks again

Spud
 
Spud, check out the pruning vids I put on youtube, those 335's always get trashed as junk but I reckon they're better than 200T's if their bugs&faults are all sorted

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Iy9Iy782i1A&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Iy9Iy782i1A&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
 
Made short work of that job - I have a lot of work ahead to get my one back in to a good state - got to fix the oiler, fit a new piston, pressure test the crankcase, fit a new clutch drum, ensure the flywheel is put on in the right position due to the damaged key, put the rest back together and then try to get it running and set the carb - five minutes should do it:biggrinbounce2:

Spud
 
One last question to PGG - is the gear on the top of the oil pump shaft ground at an angle so the whole pump shaft goes up and down as well as round and round - I guess the adjuster allows for greater pumping action from up and down movement.

Just making sure as I cant rely on the muppet that owned this saw before me not to have ground the thing down!!

Spud
 
Spud it's angled/cammed, the clown bent the plunger by screwing the adjuster down onto it instead of pushing the plunger forward THEN screwing in the adjuster. You might need to run a chainsaw file thru the hole if the plunger's binding a bit, the wormdrive will strip if there's friction in there
 
I thought as much, I have straightened the shaft with a mallet and vice and by rolling the shaft section on a flat surface - got it pretty good and isn't binding any more.

It really hacks me off when people :censored: up a saw and then pass it on without passing on a true description of the condition of the saw.

Caveat Emptor!

Thanks for all your help

Spud
 
Got the little :censored: fired up today - running 160psi comp and pressure tested ok at 7psi - need to check the oiler works once I get the new sprocket for it but sounds pretty good at the moment.

Thanks for all the help

Spud
 
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