Husqvarna 350 Plastic Clamp Replacement

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I rebuilt a Stihl saw recently and the base gasket failed a pressure test even though it was torqued to spec. Added a very thin amount of TB 1211 to both sides and it no longer leaked.
So it's worth checking/testing or use a VERY thin amount of sealant on both sides.
Would it have sealed up if I let it sit a few days? I wondered because they are not sealed from the factory.
 
Tree Monkey has A UTUBE vid on pop off pressure for the HD 199 If there is a different one I would like to see it.
Thought I saw one, my saw came with the HD199 and wouldn't run right so I just replaced it with the Zama which I didn't even check before installing and it ran much better. I replaced the cat muffler with a cheapo one that is mostly hollow but it didn't seem to help it any. I may tear down the Walbro and see what heppened to it..
 
Thought I saw one, my saw came with the HD199 and wouldn't run right so I just replaced it with the Zama which I didn't even check before installing and it ran much better. I replaced the cat muffler with a cheapo one that is mostly hollow but it didn't seem to help it any. I may tear down the Walbro and see what heppened to it..
The 357’s/9’s are one of the few saws that the zama carb was the better option. The Walbro carbs had several issues, one of which being the compensation circuit which is what I believe treemonkey addresses in his video.
Basically the passage from the diaphragm back to the air filter is too restrictive & the solution is to convert it to a traditional setup
 
The 357’s/9’s are one of the few saws that the zama carb was the better option. The Walbro carbs had several issues, one of which being the compensation circuit which is what I believe treemonkey addresses in his video.
Basically the passage from the diaphragm back to the air filter is too restrictive & the solution is to convert it to a traditional setup
I remember one part that he said the impulse wasn't strong enough or something and the needle had to hold to a minimum of 15 lbs, to work. the rest of what you are saying is going to take me a while to Digest, I am not arguing just trying to learn.
 
I remember one part that he said the impulse wasn't strong enough or something and the needle had to hold to a minimum of 15 lbs, to work. the rest of what you are saying is going to take me a while to Digest, I am not arguing just trying to learn.
I'm pretty sure these carbs have more than one issue... may well have been a different video I was referring to.
From personal experience though, my 357 was all over the place & I went round in circles with the carb for a while before reverting it to uncompensated sorted it
 
What does "reverting to uncompensated" mean?

My 1998 350 hasn't been used for a while but it ran great when I used it a lot (for a homeowner). So seems like to fundamental design flaws?

Now would be the time to execute any improvements that you might recommend. It's a 44mm saw, unmolested, just doing the intake update. Anything else?
 
You could take it all apart and reseal the cylinder/crankshaft junction all the way down to the plastic.Easy and there are youtube videos that show what to do.Buy a tube of Threebond 1184 and some small throwaway paint brushes.You could even replace the crankshaft bearings/seals but they may be fine.Edit: No design flaw except the intake clamp.
 
The 350 I had (2003 model) came factor my with a dished piston, which lowered compression and power a little. I put a meteor flat top piston in it, and also had room to do a base gasket delete, both of those upgrades were very much worth it, along with a muffler mod, I went ahead and did that when I had to remove the jug to upgrade the intake boot clamp, as well as replaced the crank seals and bearings while I was in there
 
So what model Zama carb is suitable for a 350 (with a view to fitting a 346 cyl at a later date)?.
 
Daaaaannnng.... Some mild research shows like 4-5 different carb models... 2 makes.

Depending on year and sub-model of saw:

Walbro HDA 159A or HDA 159B

Zama C3-EL17, C3-EL18 and C3-EL32

I can't help ya with which one is better than the other tho... sorry.
 
Now would be the time to execute any improvements that you might recommend. It's a 44mm saw, unmolested, just doing the intake update. Anything else?
Check the exhaust gasket & keep an eye on the exhaust bolts... They are known to loosen themselves off which can result in a melted crankcase.
Avoid over-tightening the bar nuts as this can deform the case around the bar mount area
 
Check the exhaust gasket & keep an eye on the exhaust bolts... They are known to loosen themselves off which can result in a melted crankcase.
Avoid over-tightening the bar nuts as this can deform the case around the bar mount area

Or better yet, buy a 346XP front muffler support bracket- cut off the recoil side mounting "ear" and fit that to the 340-350 chassis. Muffler never fally offy melty casey then. ;)
 
Daaaaannnng.... Some mild research shows like 4-5 different carb models... 2 makes.

Depending on year and sub-model of saw:

Walbro HDA 159A or HDA 159B

Zama C3-EL17, C3-EL18 and C3-EL32

I can't help ya with which one is better than the other tho... sorry.
All good, gives me something to look for, chose one and run with it.
 
Or better yet, buy a 346XP front muffler support bracket- cut off the recoil side mounting "ear" and fit that to the 340-350 chassis. Muffler never fally offy melty casey then. ;)
I had a later cylinder I tapped for 1/4 inch bolts as muff burned completely thru the bottom of oil tank.No I bought it for parts and used all the parts but the center case.
 
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