Husqvarna 359 questions

[Alex1992]

Hi all,

Looking for a small/mid size saw to keep in the car for camping, firewood and clearing fallen trees in the forest.
I had a 365, however found it too big physically and am looking for a smaller, more compact saw. I have come across a 359 in great condition, not too far from home.
My question is, are these saws a lot smaller overall and more compact? Im not expecting it to be the size of a 130 or 236 obviously, but just hoping to know if they are more compact.
I understand they are a bit lighter also, and still have a reasonable amount of power?

Lastly, how do they compare to the 350 model? I have found one of them too, but am apprehensive that it may be underpowered?

Edited to add, I do have a larger saw for other work (Dolmar) so not looking for anything bigger than the 359.

Thanks

 

[singinwoodwackr]

372xp, 359, 346xp
Personally, I'd carry the ported 346xp with 18" bar...good for 30" wood.

 

[Chevboy0167]

359 is good as long as the intake boot clamp has been upgraded to the metal style. I prefer the 372 type for positive sealing.

350 is "ok" but it has the plastic crankcase with an aluminum riser that can warp, causing an air leak.

372 type

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

359/2159 in my opinion was the best in class of the era- period.
357/XP was basically the same saw with crank stuffers and a wee bit more exacting for the pro user.

Both the 359 and 350 share the same intake tract- as mentioned above- at the vintage they are now, if they still have the plastic clamp replace it with a steel band. The short loop impulse hose is a let down area as well that many miss.

The 365 has all the bulk of a 372- but for a few less CC- the 359 bulk wise sits nicely between the 365 and 350, the 359 is a full magnesium case, bolt down cylinder saw- the 350 is plastic cased clamshell with a cylinder riser.
359 loves 16-20 inch bars and standard 3/8 chain- 350 is happier with .325.
359 is a K095 bar mount, so you cannot use your 365 D009 bars on it.

 

[J D]

The 350 & 357 have both been my go saws at different times.
357/359 is a great platform, nimble, ergonomic, not too big for limbing & still ok for bucking reasonable logs.
350 is refreshingly lighter & I'd be reaching for that first if I was predominantly cutting smaller stuff. The later 350's have the same cylinder as a 353 but are "detuned" with a dished piston so there are easy gains to be made by replacing the piston & doing a basic muffler mod. There are a few more potential issues to be aware of with the 350.
For me it would come down to price & what size wood you are predominately cutting.
If you plan on giving it a hard time then the 359 is a better choice. If you can find a good NE 346XP that would probably be ideal

 

[Alex1992]

Thanks for the input, especially the photos. I ended up grabbing the 359. Anyone know the part number for that intake clamp?

 

[Chevboy0167]

I believe...

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Thanks for the input, especially the photos. I ended up grabbing the 359. Anyone know the part number for that intake clamp?

If indeed it is a plastic clamp still- you will have to do some trimming- remove the tabs off off the plastic flange that were meant to- or if not broken still do, hold the flange in place, file or sand remaining stubs flattish and slip a screw band over the lot- refit to cylinder.
As for a part number- use what you can find off another saw- if you clamp both the rubber manifold and plastic flange- I have found the 372 bands to be tight enough fully open to be a bit of a pain to get on and prefer to use Stihl bands off of 066/660 saw wrecks and have happily used aftermarket bands that are cheap as chips.
If you have a reasonable relationship with a saw shop, band off a wreck should be easily found and cheaply purchased.

 

[sean donato]

Thunk the last batch I bought were off a 390xp or 394xp. Like the screw together ones better then the clip together. Been years since I had to buy any though. Like Bob mentions the 660 clamps work fine too. Just got whatever is cheapest at the time.

 

[J D]

Besides the clamp, some of the 357/359's had an auto decomp... if it has one remove it! The walbro carbs can be temperamental & the later zama carbs are preferable.

 

[sean donato]

One of the guys had a good rebuild and mod to make them work video, thought I saved it but can't find it. Did what he said and still running the walbro on mine. See if I can find the video and I'll post it.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

One of the guys had a good rebuild and mod to make them work video, thought I saved it but can't find it. Did what he said and still running the walbro on mine. See if I can find the video and I'll post it.

The drilling to atmosphere video- or something to do with accelerator pump delete?

 

[J D]

Thread 'TreeMonkey Walbo 199 Fix'

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/treemonkey-walbo-199-fix.215171/

Thread 'Walbro HDA199 Repair' https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/walbro-hda199-repair.251858/

For me blocking off the port that "compensates" by venting the metering side to the intake & drilling the cover so it vents to atmosphere (like most carbs do) pretty much solved all my carb issues

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Thread 'TreeMonkey Walbo 199 Fix'

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/treemonkey-walbo-199-fix.215171/

Thread 'Walbro HDA199 Repair' https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/walbro-hda199-repair.251858/

For me blocking off the port that "compensates" by venting the metering side to the intake & drilling the cover so it vents to atmosphere (like most carbs do) pretty much solved all my carb issues

Ha, did this on my 359 with the 199 carb

 

[sean donato]

There it is, thanks. For whatever reason I couldn't find it.

 

[domfijac]

Hi all. I just picked up a 359. I have had issues with the fuelling, I have bought a rebuild kit for the HDA174 and installed it. Still not there yet. I am yet to change the intake clamp. Can I cut the plastic clamp off the intake manifold and use a screw type hose clamp from the local hardware shop? Also I need to get a handle for it. But I am struggling to find one. Does anyone know if other models will have a handle that will fit this saw?

 

[J D]

Can I cut the plastic clamp off the intake manifold and use a screw type hose clamp from the local hardware shop?

Yes, or the intake clamp of a 372/385/390, or the clamp of a Stihl 660.

Does anyone know if other models will have a handle that will fit this saw?

357xp
Jonsered 2156 & 2159 (will be red not orange though)

 

[Chevboy0167]

I highly recommend using the style clamp depicted in the previous post.

The screw type or "worm gear" type are known to have un-even clamping force and also leaves a flat spot under the screw housing.

 

[domfijac]

Yes, or the intake clamp of a 372/385/390, or the

That's great info on the intake clamp, I will do that this weekend.

Is there any chance the front/ carry handle from a 365 will fit? I cannot find a 357xp/359 handle anywhere in Australia. Nor the Jonsered so far.

I've figured out my fuelling/ idling issue. The previous owner probably took apart the carb. They lost the choke lever, which I've replaced, buy also the idler lever, which interacts with the idler screw, so at zero throttle trigger the butterfly is completely closed, hence the dying on idle. My local lawnmower guys reckon they may have the lever and screw from an old carb to replace it. I'll also speak to them about the clamp.

 

[J D]

I'm not sure about the 365 wrap handle, but many similar saws can have the aluminium handles modified to suit... it just might not be pretty. There can be slight variations in the plastics on some of the equivalent Husky/Jonsered saws that mean other parts like the wrap handles are slightly different too... not sure about the 359, @Bob Hedgecutter will probably have a good idea though