Husqvarna 372xp Rebuild Help

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I need some help doing my first rebuild. I waited too long to tackle it, and now I'd like to get it running in the next three weeks. I got a second hand Husqvarna 372xp that apparently has low compression. I would like to take a stab at rebuilding it, but I have never done a full rebuild. So while I've watched some youtube videos I was hoping that some of you might be kind enough to help walk me through this.

So for starters what rebuild kit should I order? Should I go with the bailey's big bore? What other parts, gaskets, lines, etc should I order, and from where?

Any specialty tools that I might need?

And finally any tips or potential problems that I might run into?

I would really appreciate any help!
 
I'd do the easy stuff first, just rering it if the piston is ok and there are no airleaks which is unlikely.
The search function here is your friend. If you are happy with the way it runs stock, you could leave it that way with a few simple mods that get more grunt. The carb is important to how a saw runs.
 
I'd do the easy stuff first, just rering it if the piston is ok and there are no airleaks which is unlikely.
The search function here is your friend. If you are happy with the way it runs stock, you could leave it that way with a few simple mods that get more grunt. The carb is important to how a saw runs.

And the damn o ring between the oil pump collar and crank/bearing on the 372xp!! I spent ages looking for air leaks on mine and testing it all. Turns out my 372xp was leaking past the 'non existent' perished o ring. Didn't even know air could or would get between there.

Enjoy the build, they are simple and easy to do (I think so) and a damn fine all round beast when they are done. At the very least delete the base gasket, they have an excessively large squish with the OEM gasket..
 
No air leaks and if the cylinder is fine oem or meteor piston kit.
delete the base gasket check for clearance and dual port the muffler helps these saws greatly .
I've built four 372s with the big bore huztl kits they run good but it took some work i opened up the exhaust and worked on the transfers.
I prefer the oem 50mm cylinders.
A carb kit and new fuel lines when i have a saw that far down it's easier and you don't have to change them later on.
Post pics if you can.
 
No air leaks and if the cylinder is fine oem or meteor piston kit.
delete the base gasket check for clearance and dual port the muffler helps these saws greatly .
I've built four 372s with the big bore huztl kits they run good but it took some work i opened up the exhaust and worked on the transfers.
I prefer the oem 50mm cylinders.
A carb kit and new fuel lines when i have a saw that far down it's easier and you don't have to change them later on.
Post pics if you can.
just built 2 from cases up. I prefer oem p/c 50mm.
 
Post pics if you can.

Any thoughts?

IMG_6998_1.jpg
 
Is this better?
Yes you still might be able to clean the cylinder up if the plating is still good.
I use a drill with emory cloth on a wooden mandrel or whatever method you chose.
Find out what caused it check the intake boot for rips
And check the seals.
 
Where did you get the saw from? Do you know any history on the saw? If so maybe that will stear you in the direction of either a complete rebuild or just a P&C. Either way that is a VERY easy saw to work on. I just did a overhaul of the one I had sitting in pieces in my basement finally. Just label all your screws in little bags or something so you know where they belong on the reassembly. We all started with our first saw at some point and we'll be happy to assist in any questions along the way.
 
ARCH

Start here.



Lots of 372 stuff on my channel.

Check the link in my sig if you want aftermarket parts. If you want oem parts contact "spike60" here on the forums. He knows these better than just about anyone.

Search my channel....watch....take notes. Then come here with questions. I have bolt for bolt walk through on my channel. :)
 

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