Husqvarna 395xp W
- Thread starter War@Woodz
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I'm reading between the lines here and feeling a little week in the knees! I cut a little wood for house heat and for maple sugaring...I have run and 394 and own a 660. I would recommend any type of "woods class" game of logging ect....After several years of cutting a did a one day course from a local collage extension but on by a couple of pro loggers and forest service type person and learned a lot. Lotta folks here know a lot and are willing to give sound advice. You got big trees....great. But even in open area with little hazards large tree take felling can and if quite dangerous. Big saws are fun but wear you out and can be real hard to manage when making important cuts for felling in my experience and a more manageable power head weight wise can be more precise and in my opinion safer for the beginner. Good luck......as the the loop handle screws most if not all of them are on the non engine vibration side of the av mounts so see little vibration that could loosen them if they are tight.....however a regular fastener ck on your saw is a good plan.
good luck
sap can
good luck
sap can
discounthunter
Addicted to ArboristSite
so the 450 isnt actually burned up. getting a 36" is fine but you dont have to always make one cut thru wood. cutting a 36' round with a pass on both sides with a 20" is ok.but agree with you that the 450 is not up to that job.
im still not sure why you jumped up to a 395 when there are alot of good choices before that size,but its your money and your shoulders. with that stay safe and happy cutting.
im still not sure why you jumped up to a 395 when there are alot of good choices before that size,but its your money and your shoulders. with that stay safe and happy cutting.
Nuzzy
Trail Gnome
I agree the 395 is a lot of saw in this situation. However, maybe milling is a big part of his plan down the road and he can only afford the one saw to do both duties. Then maybe it makes sense to not burn up a 60 or 70cc milling... Regardless, it's his forearms and shoulders that'll be paying for the decision 
I missed on the milling part......was skimming the post a bit....must use a lot of fuel milling hard wood of that size!
sap can again
sap can again
I agree, that is a lot of saw. I hate to burst a mans bubble, but its too much saw with too few options below it. I hate tell a man what he should or shouldn't do, but I would return it if it hasn't been used yet and get a smaller saw like a 372 or even a 390 if you are really feeling the need to have a macho man saw. I think you will find that unless you are falling 6' Doug firs all day long, a 395 is not a good primary saw especially for someone inexperienced. Its a lot more weight and bulk to pack around if you don't absolutely need it.
Thank you all for the awesome knowledge and experience! I ordered my RS chain, so I will be better off than with the ripping chains. I did manage to get a picture of the 450 killer Elm tree(s). This wood is a challenge for me. I have already taken the two that were leaning toward my property, however, I have two more to take leaning away from my property. Anyone have any advice on how to make these two come toward my property (if you can tell anything from the attached photo)? If not, I thank you all for everything!
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Based on the advice, I will be using the 450 as my primary and the 395 as only necessary (the really big ones and milling), and I will look to get a mid grade saw such as the 372. Thanks for slapping the sillies out of me... 
Would the 450 or a 372 hold up to a thinning op of 2500 adolescent to mature Black Walnut trees? Probably be only a quarter to half of them left when I am done. I also have a few acres of some sort of pine (average size) that is half dead wood to clear. I just don't want to be burning saws out if I can help it. I know quite a bit more about maintenance now, but I still worry about over working saws. Any one have any thoughts or recommendations?
The 395 was an attempt to have a saw that would handle the large amount of work ahead. Seems the consensus is I got too much saw. I will save that one for the upcoming milling and the really large work. There sure is a lot to get right with this endeavor, but, I am all in, and I will know more as I go.
M
moody
Guest
I'd go with the 365xt for your needs . It'll handle whatever you can dish at it as long as you maintain it.
Philip Wheelock
Finis Origine Pendet
The 450 is a fine saw for felling smaller wood and limbing (my cousin across the street has one and it works great), but I don't believe it was designed to be pushed that hard. I'd get a 372 to do the bulk of the work. File your chains so they're razor sharp with raker depth set on the money, run high octane gas w/synthetic oil @ 40:1 (some re-tuning necessary), keep the filter clean, grease the clutch needle bearing every so often, check the screws for tightness, and spend a 1/2 hr to 1 hr on saw maintenance for every day you run them. Guaranteed that you will give out before a 372 will. If the motor starts acting funny, shut it down until you can determine the reason. Find a qualified, competent Husky dealer nearby for parts/repairs.
Nuzzy
Trail Gnome
Based on the advice, I will be using the 450 as my primary and the 395 as only necessary (the really big ones and milling), and I will look to get a mid grade saw such as the 372. Thanks for slapping the sillies out of me...
Why not try out the 395 and see how it works for you before spending more money... Saw size/weight is all relative; your strength and endurance will be slightly different than everyone else. If you run it for a full day and feel fine, then maybe it's a non issue for you.
A 372 with proper care will be as solid, if not more, than any choice out there. That said, there's nothing wrong with working the pee out of your 450.
I'll look into the 365xt. After loading it around a little, the 395 will be kept for only the major stuff and milling (when I can get to it). I will be using the 450 (with proper maintenance, or at least as proper as I know) for a lot still. I will compare the 372 and 365xt when I can afford it. Thanks all and let me know if anyone has anymore suggestions for anything in this thread or related, AS is great!
When I do need to use the 395, and just in general for other saws, I have been striving to find out as much as possible about kickback. I found a pretty good video on kickback at . I will be conducting training on my land with a good log of that Elm I spoke about under ideal conditions and with lots of PPE real soon. If anyone feels like watching this, let me know if you have anything to add. I feel pretty educated from that video, but I am sure it will take experience and practice to get a better understanding. If anyone has any other advice or experience they want to share, please let me know. Thanks!
Yeah, I am nervous about chainsawing in general, and I hope I am not ever not nervous. Keeps the mind and body working. I will go to the extreme to learn, practice, maintenance, etc. I will get a mid way saw (450 to 395), but for now, its use what I have and be careful, in fact, always be careful, and remember to constantly learn up, because I will never know everything. I am currently searching for local classes and experience, I will find as much help as I can. Thanks for all of the help!
zogger
Tree Freak
Schlep that 395 around enough, big ole muscles!
Haven't run a 372, but ran a 365sp and now a 371 a lot, great practical size saws, get a few different bars for them and some loops, say 20 to 28, you are ready to rock in your woods just fine.
I have a poulan 505 and a husky 394, those are for the three foot diameter and larger trees.
Haven't run a 372, but ran a 365sp and now a 371 a lot, great practical size saws, get a few different bars for them and some loops, say 20 to 28, you are ready to rock in your woods just fine.
I have a poulan 505 and a husky 394, those are for the three foot diameter and larger trees.
