Husqvarna 445 20" Bar/Chain Issues

[nootkaebear]

Holy crap, get that moss off your roof!!! :msp_razz:

That is too funny. That is the house next door. No one lives there. The guy that owns it, comes by about once every couple years, to start arguments with us, but other than that, we don't have to see him.

I should have posted that with the pictures, that it is not where we live, we live up the side of the driveway without the big holes in it.

 

[nootkaebear]

If this much wood is going to fall into your yard on a regular basis, you would do best with a 70cc saw. In Stihl that would be 044/440 or 046/460. Husky would be a 365 or 372xp (there are others but we'll start here). When looking at used saws on ebay the most important thing is the seller's feedback and comments from people who have purchased saws. You would also like to know what the saws compression is. I won't buy one under 140 unless I feel like doing work on it. Really thorough sellers will pull the muffler and take pictures of the exhaust side of the piston. A newish bar and chain are nice as well. It's always a crapshoot, as you have to take their word for it that the saw starts easily, idles, runs and oils as it should. You can also buy from one of the members through AS, in which case you would basically be guaranteed something good. good luck

How would I go about finding someone selling a chainsaw through AS? I would trust that much more easily.

 

[HuskStihl]

How would I go about finding someone selling a chainsaw through AS? I would trust that much more easily.

There is an "Auctions" tab on the main bar.

 

[fearofpavement]

How would I go about finding someone selling a chainsaw through AS? I would trust that much more easily.

There is an Auctions tab as the previous poster stated, and then within that there are "auctions" where you bid on items, and "classifieds" where prices are fixed. You'll figure it out if you go there.

Just a word of caution, anyone can join Arboristsite so the fact that someone is a member here does not guarantee a good transaction. If you find a saw that you are interested in, look up the info on the member to see if they have been around and post from time to time or if they are brand new. The site does not provide any guarantees like eBay does if a transaction goes sour, and they occasionally do but finding a saw from a respected member here is more likely to be satisfactory than taking a pot shot on eBay.

The best option is to buy a saw in person so you can make your own determination. I don't presently have any "large" saws for sale but if your future wood cutting is going to consist of bucking logs, then as an inexpensive option you may want to consider a large older saw. Some reasons:
Older saws cost less.
Older saws don't have chain brakes. This will be less of an issue for just bucking than if you are working in trees limbing them.
Older saws don't have good anti-vibe (most) but it may not matter if you are only cutting an hour at a time and spread it out.
Older saws are heavy (most) but it will not matter as much for bucking purposes
Older saws are readily available because they have low appeal to the masses but something you are likely to encounter here on AS.
Older saws are hard to find parts for...With this site and eBay, that is not as much of an issue unless you get something really rare.

For example: I recently sold a McCulloch PM700 for under $200. That is about the 70cc class as has been mentioned. For a modern saw in that cc range you are looking at used prices of $400 to $550 with some either side of that and new prices starting at $800 for the most part.

I have some older running Mac 10-10 models that will be going on the block soon and those saws are quite inexpensive and more powerful than what you have. (<$100) No anti-vibe and loud but they cut well. Simple to maintain and lots were made so parts can be had either nos or used.

Regarding the questions on the splitter, these big "knots" are very challenging to split by hand. Probably can do most of it by manual means but don't "fight" with the tough stuff, cast it aside and go after it with a powered unit later.

 

[fearofpavement]

This is not a recommendation to the OP but... Your present saw would be able to cut up every piece of wood you have lying there. As long as your bar is longer than the length of firewood you want to cut it is possible.

For pieces too large to cut through, noodle the ends of the logs to the full length of the bar, then start your bucking cuts and removing pieces. Then noodle the top half of the log again and remove some more pieces by bucking the top half again. You now have room to buck the bottom of the log and keep repeating. A saw with an 18" bar can turn a redwood into 16" firewood eventually.

Care needs to be taken to keep the chain very sharp, keep the air filter clean, keep the rest of the saw blown out so the cylinder can cool and don't be in a hurry.

You NEED a bigger saw but it CAN be done with what you have.

 

[CTYank]

Hopefully we've dropped the idea of a 20" bar on a 445; it'll thank you.

But, to the basics, for a given saw and new b&c you need:
1) bar mount to match saw (slot for studs, oil passage, adjuster holes)
2) pitch (link spacing) of chain to match that of drive sprocket and bar sprocket
3) gauge (drive link thickness) to match width of bar slots
4) # of chain drive links to match requirement of that bar on that saw. (Often marked on bar, hopefully suitable for that saw.)

It's very simple physics. Any mismatch and its NFG. :msp_sad:

Just gets tedious to separate 70DL chains from the 72DL chains in the stash. :msp_wink:
(IOW, count the DLs, by hand, if it matters at all; then tag the chain.)

 

[nootkaebear]

I recently sold a McCulloch PM700 for under $200. That is about the 70cc class as has been mentioned. For a modern saw in that cc range you are looking at used prices of $400 to $550 with some either side of that and new prices starting at $800 for the most part.
I have some older running Mac 10-10 models that will be going on the block soon and those saws are quite inexpensive and more powerful than what you have. (<$100) No anti-vibe and loud but they cut well. Simple to maintain and lots were made so parts can be had either nos or used.
Regarding the questions on the splitter, these big "knots" are very challenging to split by hand. Probably can do most of it by manual means but don't "fight" with the tough stuff, cast it aside and go after it with a powered unit later.

I appreciate the input. Would love to go for something around $200 that will do the job. Not worried about the age and/or missing luxuries. I don't know if we will be able to get wood like this often, or if it will turn out to be one of those one time jobs. Either way, not harm in having a 3rd or 4th chainsaw around, but can't see spending a lot of money right now. The trees came from less than a mile away, and it was convenient for us, and the tree man found it convenient to have someplace to take them. Usually, we ask and the people act like we are crazy, offering to take the woord from them. But we always ask, especially when it is close to where we live.

Do you have any idea how long before you would be willing to part with one of the Mac 10-10's? We still have the wood covered up, as the weather does not want to cooperate, so have it covered really good right now.

And yes, I understand what you mean about the knots. We have gotten used to taking the wedges, and sledge hammers, and the two of us breaking up the hard to split pieces, but will definitely wait, maybe for quite a long while before splitting the hard to split pieces. In fact, we were talking about cutting the large pieces down just enough to get them into the yard here, and storing them, with no bark on them, in an upright position so that they will be drying, and keep them covered of course. This one, we are playing by ear, thus another reason we have had a hard time taking anyone up on offers to assist us. Nothing worse than showing up someplace to knock out some work, and they are not organized enough for squat. So when there is an offer, and we have yet been unable to get everything worked out, we will normally pass on the assistance, that way, should we be ready and someone offer we will be prepared.

 

[nootkaebear]

chainsaws

We have been looking at many chainsaws to assist with our chore.

One:

hello, up for sale is a 044 stihl powerhead dealer rebuilt--new crank-rod--piston--rings--cylinder was good--new bearings--gaskets--seals--fuel system cleaned--new fuel lines--filter--carb kit--dealer didnt clean it up--dirty--scufs--scratches--chips--doesnt look new---runs like new.

I am wondering what I should be cautious on something like the above ad.

 

[eat a peach]

044

If it is offered by a dealer it should be ok. If it is presented as dealer refurbished by another owner ask to see paperwork. At least get dealers name to inquire about what work was done. I would ask what the compression is ,it should be at least 145-150 psi for a good working saw.

 

[nootkaebear]

If it is offered by a dealer it should be ok. If it is presented as dealer refurbished by another owner ask to see paperwork. At least get dealers name to inquire about what work was done. I would ask what the compression is ,it should be at least 145-150 psi for a good working saw.

That is good sound advice, I appreciate it!