Husqvarna 540i XP (pro battery saw)

[livemusic]

I bought this pro grade saw when they came out. I have a 16 inch bar and chose that size bar after asking a few people who know far more than me about saws. My issue is that in oak, the saw seems to bog down too easily. It happens over and over. Even if I have a new chain on, it will cut a few seconds and stop. I have to move it a bit or trigger it again and off we go again for a few seconds. Anyone found similar problem? What do you think is the max size oak log you can cut without it having a bogging problem.

Cuts are reasonable straight. But when I am cutting a decent size log, I have the sensation that the narrow kerf bar is getting bound in the cut. It's a sensation that I do not have with a strong gas saw. Wondering if anyone knows what I mean or if there is something wrong with my saw.

If I cut small limbs (2" - 4"), it, generally, cuts right through them. The issue seems to be 8+ inch oak logs. I need to find an 8+ inch softer hardwood log and try. Could it be that oak is just too much for this saw? If so, that is a bummer! This is regarded as about as strong a battery saw as one can buy.

Recently, I have been cutting water oak. I think it is in the red oak family.

P.S. Just now, I cut a bit more to make sure... and after cutting a several cuts, now, the saw will suddenly not run. Even though the green lights are on and the red light is not on. Hmmm... first time this has happened. I have two green lights left on the battery. Reason I mention that is I wonder if this new problem has anything to do with my saw stopping in the cut over and over. (Remember... it does not stop/bog in small limbs.)

 

[Franny K]

The battery saws seem to do best in the dog in and rotate method in larger stuff. That way the amount of bite is pretty controllable. I don't have that model but the prior 536 and some Makita ones. The makita one I have is even easier to trip it's breaker.

I think the small .043 3/8 chain does have chip clearance limitations,

Still broke? the chain brake will not let it do anything.

 

[cscltd]

I think your problem may be with chain, you say cuts reasonably straight. If right and left cutters are sharp, it should cut straight- not reasonably- if one side of cutters are duller than other it can bind in larger wood as you describe and can bind or stop in cut, thus tripping switch.
Try a “brand new” chain and test on a clean piece of wood.
also I think the 540i series uses .043 .325 pitch?

 

[livemusic]

SAY, THIS IS INTERESTING -- I reported that it would not run at all. Well, guess what. The chain brake was not on. If it's on, a red light comes on. Then, I noticed that the chain was loose. I tightened the chain to tension and it runs normally!

The chain I had on it has VERY little time on it, I don't see how it could be unevenly sharp but I am going to put a brand new one on and see what happens.

Once again, if anyone has an opinion on how big DBH oak logs one could buck reasonably well, lemme know.

Franny K, yes, it does seem you need to dog in and rotate. Especially on oak.

cscltd, yes, I think it is .043 and .325. NK chain. EDIT: It is Husky chain x-cut SP21G, 596 55 33-64.

 

[livemusic]

Trying to think back to how it behaved prior to recent use... it's been a few months since I used this saw and I have not used it alot.

Say, can one's cutting technique cause a chain to wear faster on one side? (New saw with new bar/chain... if the chain is sharper on one side, improper sharpening or saw wear and tear should not be the culprit.)

 

[Fatherwheels]

That saw is known for that. The Echo Makita and Oregon seem to be the best
of the lot, not as well balanced but they just keep chipping away til they are dead.

 

[HumBurner]

I picked one up over the summer. Overall, I'm not terribly impressed, but that's also because I was pushing it to its limits. The 540i certainly has a place in the arsenal. It excels at brushing and falling small trees (dependent on bar size). Even slash cutting 6-10" dia max firs, it would often stall.in the cuts or at least flounder a bit, but under 6" was fine .

For fun, I buried it in some dead black cottonwood 16-20" dia rounds. It bogged at least once on each round, but after clearing the kerf, it jumped right back in fine.

I'm curious as to the longevity of the motor, especially.in super hardwoods all day, every day.

There's basically no way to clean out the insides of the saw or battery without compressed air. That may also lead to heat issues for some folks.

I imagine a dull chain or improperly taken-down depth gauges will also kill the motor quickly. No idea what parts cost for this line.

SAY, THIS IS INTERESTING -- I reported that it would not run at all. Well, guess what. The chain brake was not on. If it's on, a red light comes on. Then, I noticed that the chain was loose. I tightened the chain to tension and it runs normally!

The chain I had on it has VERY little time on it, I don't see how it could be unevenly sharp but I am going to put a brand new one on and see what happens.

Once again, if anyone has an opinion on how big DBH oak logs one could buck reasonably well, lemme know.

Franny K, yes, it does seem you need to dog in and rotate. Especially on oak.

cscltd, yes, I think it is .043 and .325. NK chain. EDIT: It is Husky chain x-cut SP21G, 596 55 33-64.

 

[Franny K]

I'm curious as to the longevity of the motor, especially.in super hardwoods all day, every day.

I think the motor itself should be trouble free. It gets fed three phase electricity pulsed as designed and delivered from the electronics, I would expect there is a temperature sensor in it. The current model has been changed from the ones I have, top handle 536 pole non extendable 536 string trimmer 5xx and blower 4xx. Only the string trimmer has always worked properly. It is like they are a piston engine but missing. It seems to go away with use, is rare with the top handle and almost always with the blower. They have not stopped working. And the charger is fragile don't let your help drop them or do it yourself. You would think it would be preferable to blow air over cylinder fins as opposed through the battery and motor and or electronics like the top handle one if there was dust of various types involved. None of the Makita stuff has had this like missing a beat behavior.

 

[Xmaniac]

Mine was working fine for less than a year, I always blew it out, maintained it. One day it made a electrical pop noise and I saw smoke coming out from it that smelled like burnt wires.... since my local husqvarna dealer sucks at best. I opened it up, noticed the main control board was melted.... replaced it, 200 bucks. Didn't work... replaced switch control and wiring harness that battery clips into.... still doesn't work... tested alI other wiring ... I get all green flashing lights on display panel, with batteries that work perfectly in my other one...I have 4 of the older models that still work fine... reached out to husqvarna support, they said take it to my local dealer that doesn't even clean saws before working on them, charges $90 an hour, and 3 months later tells you to buy a new saw....