Not the greatest, but I'd new ring and run it if everything else is OK. Check out the main bearings they had issues back then.
Husqvarna 562xp wont idle?
- Thread starter david newbie
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I pressure and vacuum tested the 2013 non runner and it passed! (what a fuss!@#$#). Here's picture of the carb it had, is this the problematic kind? I expect I will order a carb kit for it.
Also, somewhere along the line in a trade I ended up with 2 mystery cylinders. Could they be 562 or 555?
Not everyone had issues with the earlier carbs, I ran my 2012 552xp till 2021 when the original carb crapped out. Wouldn't specifically worry about it at this point.
far as I know the cylinders were the same. Don't take that as gospel though.
far as I know the cylinders were the same. Don't take that as gospel though.
Tried the flash the carb myself, but it didn't work, ran right out the door
LMAO , took a second to get it
Before any of you guys asked me for my number, sorry I’m already married
Nothing wrong with an EL48 carb.
Before you spend money on a carb kit, flip the carb over and remove the bottom cover (after taking off the horns) There is a fine screen in the bottom of the carb that gets plugged from old or bad gas. Normal symptoms are no power, bogging, not an idle issue, but if it’s really bad it can stop it running at all. 15 min job and an easy fix.
Before you spend money on a carb kit, flip the carb over and remove the bottom cover (after taking off the horns) There is a fine screen in the bottom of the carb that gets plugged from old or bad gas. Normal symptoms are no power, bogging, not an idle issue, but if it’s really bad it can stop it running at all. 15 min job and an easy fix.
I worked on the older one with the worn piston yesterday before I start in on the nicer newer one. Replaced the ring , sanded the piston a little and rebuilt the carb. Made a couple mistakes along the way, but got it back together. It starts and runs and feels like good compression. I have not put a bar on it yet. Now imI’m gonna try rebuilding the carb on the newer one. I think this carb installment Is easier if I pull the cythe cylinder and do the whole installation as a single unit?
I worked on the older one with the worn piston yesterday before I start in on the nicer newer one. Replaced the ring , sanded the piston a little and rebuilt the carb. Made a couple mistakes along the way, but got it back together. It starts and runs and feels like good compression. I have not put a bar on it yet. Now imI’m gonna try rebuilding the carb on the newer one. I think this carb installment Is easier if I pull the cythe cylinder and do the whole installation as a single unit?
I have some questions about the older 562 that ive got running again. BTW, even though the piston was less than perfect, it seems to have very good compression with the new caber ring! First question, this 2013 model, does it just have a 2 position oiler? Seemed like that to me when I tried to give it more oil. 2nd question, not familiar with these husky 3/4 wraps. I feel like I'm progbably missing a screw, any Idea what it's supposed to look like, ect. #rd question. what's that round peg , knob just above the clutch cover? Thanks for any ideas
They have detents, but they are fully adjustable. Normally ran mine wide open anyway.
Sad news on the older 562. New ring , rebuilt carb, past pressure and vacuum test. Today I took it to a spot where I could do some big logs to attempt to do a reset on the computer. I ran it for about three minutes ripping a big log lengthwise with a 20 inch bar. When I was finished, I let go of the throttle in the saw died and would not restart it home. Let it cooled off won’t restart. I pulled the muffler and it looks like the piston is scored. I think I may give up on this saw I have another newer one that I still need to rebuild the carbon as well , at least I know how to rebuild the car and get it in and out. By the way, as far as I can tell this one just seems to have two oiler positions. Maybe that’s just the detent.
Bearings would be the most likely. Cages like to come apart. Can't fuel the carb out. You can swap the ignition module and carb feom the newer saw and see how it runs.
I pressure and vacuumed it. Wouldn’t bad bearing show up then?
Usually you spin the crank over slowly while doing the pressure and vac test to confirm.
If the seal is good, I don't think freed bearings would show a leak......but someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
So I rebuilt the carb on the nice 2021 562, but nothing changed. Still starts, runs, but if I release the trigger for more than a couple seconds, it dies. The one thing I did not include in the carb rebuild and cleaning was the solenoid. I was afraid to mess with that, so I did not unscrew that component. Maybe I need to take it apart again and clean in there? Hate to do it, I really struggled to reinstall that carb! And it came out so easily!
So I rebuilt the carb on the nice 2021 562, but nothing changed. Still starts, runs, but if I release the trigger for more than a couple seconds, it dies. The one thing I did not include in the carb rebuild and cleaning was the solenoid. I was afraid to mess with that, so I did not unscrew that component. Maybe I need to take it apart again and clean in there? Hate to do it, I really struggled to reinstall that carb! And it came out so easily!
You're absolutely sure there's no holes in the fuel lines?
Does it start easily, or do you have to play with the choke and/or crank it with the throttle engaged?
