Hey look what followed me home! $60 at a garage sale. chainbrake is apart but supposedly "removed because it makes chain maintenance harder?"
Brian
Pretty clean saw...
Husqvarna Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Pretty clean saw...
Vermonster
ArboristSite Operative
My two go-to saws are the Stihl 361 and a Husky 350. Although I love the power and speed of the 361, it has been less reliable than the old Husky. Just my 2 cents.
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
yeah my 362XP never fails and same with the 65 but they get heavy as the day goes along so hopefully this 41 will work out as a dependable limbing saw. my go to 50 cc saw is the jonsereds 535 but i just got the stihl 028wb kicking so hopefully i can take about a six saw arsenal with me!
Brian
Brian
J.Walker
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Been on this red kick when it comes to buying saws, but bought this 562xp last spring from Spike.\
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kmcinms
ArboristSite Guru
Hey look what followed me home! $60 at a garage sale. chainbrake is apart but supposedly "removed because it makes chain maintenance harder?"
Brian
Hey Brian, long time no see. Nice 41. That chain maintenance statement is ridiculous, huh? You'll like that 41 for limbing. That's what I do with my muff modded 36. Been tempted to do a 41 transplant.
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
I did some limbing yesterday with it! your right, it has a little 13 inch bar but really is light and still has plenty of power for the job. missing chain brake parts are on order. :beer:
Brian
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have all the parts now for the chain brake but can for the life of me figure out how to reassmble it. I dont see where the spring fits in and I assume the big pin goes through that pyramid shaped hole but it doesnt align.
Brian
Brian
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I have all the parts now for the chain brake but can for the life of me figure out how to reassmble it. I dont see where the spring fits in and I assume the big pin goes through that pyramid shaped hole but it doesnt align.
Brian
That spring actually fits inside of the chainbrake lever. Push the coil end into the lever first. Force it up into the lever towards the 'flag' end. The straight arm with the"O" loop on it goes towards the rearward edge of the chainbrake lever. The curved arm of the spring goes towards the forward edge of the chainbrake lever. This orientation can be seen the the IPL's. Looking at your picture, flip the spring over and tuck the coil end into the brake lever.
The pin doesn't go through the pyramid shaped hole. It actually just passes over and in front of the extention (tail) that sticks up and back behind the pyramid section. It doesn't connect the lever to the 'knee link' hardware................it just pushes that tail back and down when you pull the lever back to reset the chainbrake. That's why the chainbrake lever feels 'dsiconnected' and 'floppy' on these saws until the brake has been tripped. When it's tripped, the knee link has folded forward and up..............and that tail is forced against the pin. When the chainbrake is cocked and you push the chainbrake lever forward (either by hand or from the inertia of a kickback event.......where the lever stays put while the rest of the saw kicks back/up), the pin pushes against the pyramid section of the link, nudging it over center (which allows it to fold).
When I work on these buggers I remove the coil spring cover plate on the clutch cover and pop out the bottom/rear end of the coil spring. Makes moving things around for assembly MUCH easier. Once you have the top end stuff (lever, pivot, pin, and such) together, use a screwdriver and your fingers to lever the bottom of the spring back into place. It's a bit tricky. Then reinstall the spring cover. You'll need to reset the chainbrake before putting the clutch cover on the saw. That's also a bit tricky...
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briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Okay is making more sense. The tip about letting the end of the coil spring out to reduce force makes sense. On the goofy spring up in the handle does the metal pin go through the small "o" or is the spring just stuffed up there?
Brian
Brian
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I can't remember. It might. I do know that when the spring is stuffed all the way in there everything goes together.
I have a spare lever in the bin. I think it has the spring in it. Will check and get back to you.
mic214
New Member
My little McCulloch MiniMac 110 finally gave up the ghost after 25+ years, so I was recently in the market for a new saw. We recently moved into the mountains to a house that sits on an acre which is heavily wooded, mostly with Ponderosa pines, Pinon pine and Alligator Juniper, with a few scrub Oaks here and there. The land had been neglected for several years, so there is lots of clean up to do. We have several large trees that have already fallen down and numerous dead trees that are still standing. There are also lots of smaller trees that need to be thinned out.
I decided that I needed a mid-range sized saw to deal with our property, so after going back and forth between Stihl and Husqvarna, I decided on a Husky 450 with an 18" bar. I had tested one of my neighbors' Stihl 260 "Farm Boss" and another neighbors' Husky 455 "Rancher". Both saws worked great and seemed about equal in cutting ability.
The deciding factors for me was the ease of maintenance on the 450 to clean/replace the filter and access to the spark plug. I was also able to get a nice package deal on the Husky that included a case, extra chain, chain oil and gas mix oil. There is a great shop in town that carries and works on them, so parts and service will not be a problem. After I get rid of the 20" trees, I will probably drop down to a smaller bar (14" or 16") for ease of handling as the remainder of my trees are 6" to 8" in diameter.
I decided that I needed a mid-range sized saw to deal with our property, so after going back and forth between Stihl and Husqvarna, I decided on a Husky 450 with an 18" bar. I had tested one of my neighbors' Stihl 260 "Farm Boss" and another neighbors' Husky 455 "Rancher". Both saws worked great and seemed about equal in cutting ability.
The deciding factors for me was the ease of maintenance on the 450 to clean/replace the filter and access to the spark plug. I was also able to get a nice package deal on the Husky that included a case, extra chain, chain oil and gas mix oil. There is a great shop in town that carries and works on them, so parts and service will not be a problem. After I get rid of the 20" trees, I will probably drop down to a smaller bar (14" or 16") for ease of handling as the remainder of my trees are 6" to 8" in diameter.
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have a random .325 20" bar that will go right on my 362XP. Everything I have had on it is 3/8 pitch. Question is if I get a rim to drive .325 chain how many drive slots? I have a .325 7 slot here but should it be an eight given the speed of this saw?
Sellseverything
ArboristSite Operative
SawTroll
Information Collector
.325x7 surely won't do that saw justice - you need .325x8.
SawTroll
Information Collector
No, you got that the wrong way around!
Sellseverything
ArboristSite Operative
You are correct .I apologize. The .325 rim sprocket i have here is for a 350 and its a .325/7. i do also have 3/8-8 and 3/8-7 sprockets
