Husqvarna Protective Boots

[SawTroll]

Looking at winter boots. Thinking I could kill two birds with one stone with these..... getting them with the liners. I see Labonville sells these, so I'm thinking I may be able to drive there and at least try them on before I buy a pair.

Bailey's - Viking Black Tusk Chainsaw Boots - Lug Soles

I haven't seen those here.

 

[StihlyinEly]

Rubber just flat out sucks to wear when working. The feet don't breathe at all, so you're swimming in sweat inside summer or winter, even if you are wearing multiple layers of wicking socks to keep the moisture away from your foot. In summer, it's just really uncomfortable. In winter, it's downright cold.

I have a pair of heavily insulated rubber/neoprene boots (Muckboots Woody Max boots), but only wear them when I absolutely have to, for the reasons mentioned.

Day in and day out, in all weathers, nothing beats leather and/or Goretex in a workboot.

 

[Philbert]

They are heavy compared to jogging shoes and might chafe your shin at the top of the boot until you toughen up .
The one you pictured in the first post are not the same as the Vikings but they are like the oldest pair of J'Red ones I have and work just fine , . . .

These rubber boots fit OK. But, most importantly, in practice they stink. There isn't the same ankle support the leather boots have. They gather sawdust like no one's business. They are hot as hell. They are heavy as hell. And if they fit right, they are a complete bich to remove at the end of the day. And, they will make your feet stink like hell.

Rubber just flat out sucks to wear when working.

Thanks guys for the input.

Currently, I wear steel-toed boots. I have a pair of metatarsal protective boots that I had to buy for some work at a steel mill, that may become my next pair, to provide some additional protection in case the saw slips up from the toe cap to the instep area. I would like to find an affordable pair with the kevlar lining up the sides at some point though.

Philbert

Chainsaw Boot Test - YouTube

Chainsaw boots test - YouTube

 

[Ductape]

This is just food for thought while we are on the subject. These are a couple pics of my Chippewa boot that I was wearing when I had a little chainsaw accident. I had my foot on a small limb, keeping it still while I was cutting it to stove length. My chain bit into the limb, causing it to roll out from under my toes and made it roll up over the top of my boot. When it did, it took the saw with it. It happened in a fraction of a second ..... I don't think I even had time to let off the throttle. I'm pretty confident that if I weren't wearing steel toed boots, I'd be missing a couple of toes. Like with anything else.... buy as much safety as you can afford.

 

[SawTroll]

This is just food for thought while we are on the subject. These are a couple pics of my Chippewa boot that I was wearing when I had a little chainsaw accident. I had my foot on a small limb, keeping it still while I was cutting it to stove length. My chain bit into the limb, causing it to roll out from under my toes and made it roll up over the top of my boot. When it did, it took the saw with it. It happened in a fraction of a second ..... I don't think I even had time to let off the throttle. I'm pretty confident that if I weren't wearing steel toed boots, I'd be missing a couple of toes. Like with anything else.... buy as much safety as you can afford.

The steel toe cap, and the studiness of the rubber Husky/Vikings is the main reason I wear protective boots at all - I simply don't cut close to my feet, like that! :msp_wink:

 

[StihlyinEly]

Currently, I wear steel-toed boots. I have a pair of metatarsal protective boots that I had to buy for some work at a steel mill, that may become my next pair, to provide some additional protection in case the saw slips up from the toe cap to the instep area.

My working chainsaw boots are the same as what you're describing. They are made by Carolina Boot, and cost me about $150. Nine-inch boot, very soft/grippy sole, uninsulated leather. I like the metatarsal flap not only for additional protection from a stray bar, but for those times when logs shift unpredictably onto one's foot.

I also do a fair amount of construction, and a 10-foot 4x4 will REALLY hurt your foot if you happen to drop it on standard boots!

 

[Hank Chinaski]

Philbert
I know you do Disaster Relief work, and after long deliberate thinking, these are the ones I ended up with to use for DR and all my saw work:

The Matterhorn 12900 Search and Rescue boot

10" Waterproof Search & Rescue Boot
with Steel Toe and Flexible Internal Metatarsal Guard
• Waterproof/Breathable GORE-TEX® Bootie
• Water-Resistant, Breathable Full Grain Leather
• Fabric Upper of 7 oz. Kevlar®/Nomex® Advance Ripstop
• Kevlar® Insulated Lining
• Goodyear Welt Construction
• Cambrelle® Breathable Moisture-Wicking Lining
• Patented Matterhorn® "Tiger Tip"®
• Kevlar® Upper and Sole stitching
• Matterhorn® Flexible Internal Metatarsal Guard™
• Removable DRYZ® Moisture/Odor-Control Shock-Absorbing Cushioned Insert
• Zinc-coated Ladder Shank
• Steel Toe, Stainless Steel Bottom Plate and Internal Metatarsal Guard: Meet All Current ANSI Standards, Class 75
• VIBRAM® One-Piece Lug Fire-Resistant Compound Outsole

I like them A LOT. The only thing that I'd like to add is a pull tab at the rear, but that's a small want (and I switched out the laces w/550 chord). Of course they're twice as much $ as you're looking at w/the rubber boots, but I feel very well protected in them.
I've had mine and enjoyed them for about three years now and I've already turned 3 nails with the steel shank, and that alone is well worth the cost when your in a DR area.

 

[SawTroll]

Philbert
I know you do Disaster Relief work, and after long deliberate thinking, these are the ones I ended up with to use for DR and all my saw work:

The Matterhorn 12900 Search and Rescue boot

10" Waterproof Search & Rescue Boot
with Steel Toe and Flexible Internal Metatarsal Guard
• Waterproof/Breathable GORE-TEX® Bootie
• Water-Resistant, Breathable Full Grain Leather
• Fabric Upper of 7 oz. Kevlar®/Nomex® Advance Ripstop
• Kevlar® Insulated Lining
• Goodyear Welt Construction
• Cambrelle® Breathable Moisture-Wicking Lining
• Patented Matterhorn® "Tiger Tip"®
• Kevlar® Upper and Sole stitching
• Matterhorn® Flexible Internal Metatarsal Guard™
• Removable DRYZ® Moisture/Odor-Control Shock-Absorbing Cushioned Insert
• Zinc-coated Ladder Shank
• Steel Toe, Stainless Steel Bottom Plate and Internal Metatarsal Guard: Meet All Current ANSI Standards, Class 75
• VIBRAM® One-Piece Lug Fire-Resistant Compound Outsole

I like them A LOT. The only thing that I'd like to add is a pull tab at the rear, but that's a small want (and I switched out the laces w/550 chord). Of course they're twice as much $ as you're looking at w/the rubber boots, but I feel very well protected in them.
I've had mine and enjoyed them for about three years now and I've already turned 3 nails with the steel shank, and that alone is well worth the cost when your in a DR area.

I don't see any chainspeed rating, and have no idea how/where the protection is?

 

[StihlyinEly]

Hank, what do those boots cost?

 

[wyk]

I don't see any chains peed rating, and have no idea how/where the protection is?

It meets ASTM F2413. Whatever that is.

However, another thing I forgot to share is boots do not protect you like chaps or trousers do when they have kevlar. The kevlar in a boot is virtually useless, and I feel it lures one into a false sense of security. I have seen how easily chainsaws can cut into kevlar boots in England, and that was a class 3 boot(highest rating). Yeah, it's class 3 - so long as you cut the toe only or use a wild thing with the chain on backwards. My steel toes Georgia Boot does that for $80 and it's super comfy and water proof. Kevlar stops a chainsaw by clogging it's drive mechanism. Not by preventing the cut, but by slowing it enough through clogging. The thickness protects you as much as the strength in kevlar as it allows more fibers to be pulled into the drive sprocket area before the chain contacts your flesh. You do not have this luxury in a boot. As anyone can see, you can not fit a lot of kevlar fibers into a boot. And none of them have enough to stop your chainsaw at any modern chainsaw speed unless it is very small and underpowered by US standards. Some boots that are highly rated don't even have steel toes - these are worthless against large saws. Kevlar is strong against cuts when it is very thick and has a large mass - two attributes it doesn't bring with it when it comes to boots. What protects you in a boot is the steel toe, or steel sheath/armor.

Oh, and don't put yer foot on what yer cutting

 

[SawTroll]

..... Oh, and don't put yer foot on what yer cutting

At least we agree on that one! :msp_biggrin:

 

[StihlyinEly]

It meets ASTM F2413. Whatever that is.

However, another thing I forgot to share is boots do not protect you like chaps or trousers do when they have kevlar. The kevlar in a boot is virtually useless, and I feel it lures one into a false sense of security. I have seen how easily chainsaws can cut into kevlar boots in England, and that was a class 3 boot(highest rating). Yeah, it's class 3 - so long as you cut the toe only or use a wild thing with the chain on backwards. My steel toes Georgia Boot does that for $80 and it's super comfy and water proof. Kevlar stops a chainsaw by clogging it's drive mechanism. Not by preventing the cut, but by slowing it enough through clogging. The thickness protects you as much as the strength in kevlar as it allows more fibers to be pulled into the drive sprocket area before the chain contacts your flesh. You do not have this luxury in a boot. As anyone can see, you can not fit a lot of kevlar fibers into a boot. And none of them have enough to stop your chainsaw at any modern chainsaw speed unless it is very small and underpowered by US standards. Some boots that are highly rated don't even have steel toes - these are worthless against large saws. Kevlar is strong against cuts when it is very thick and has a large mass - two attributes it doesn't bring with it when it comes to boots. What protects you in a boot is the steel toe, or steel sheath/armor.

Oh, and don't put yer foot on what yer cutting

See, my simple Carolina Boots are looking better and better.

 

[Motorsen]

Whao!

6eaf173b.jpeg24a38a06.jpeg206711d3.jpeg
Buy one of this instead(husqvarna)

I have a serious look at especialy the ones in your third picture in the Husqvarna "wankalog". Do you have any reviews of these boots??? Wow I would like to have and try a pair of these ones!
Very expensive in Denmark though! Something like 450 us dollars if you convert!!!!
Got a pair of Stihl rubber ones right now. If they are not bone dry in the morning I will not be able to mount them without liberal amounts of silicone spray!!! Great boots for occasional work in the garden. Not for foresting!
Still dreaming of great boots

Motorsen

 

[Ductape]

Oh, and don't put yer foot on what yer cutting

At least we agree on that one! :msp_biggrin:

Who'da thought ?? :msp_wink:

 

[Hank Chinaski]

Hank, what do those boots cost?

about $230ish

I don't see any chainspeed rating, and have no idea how/where the protection is?

Not quite sure what the chain speed rating of stainless steel is. My chaps are properly sized to reach the top of the metatarsal guard.

In a lot of the DR areas we are in, there is plenty of trash and blow down from structures etc and the stainless shank, toe, and metatarsal as well as the rubber kick toe and the kevlar sides all work and wear well.

I agree 100% with keeping your feet away from where you cut, but as we all know accidents happen, and lots of accidents that happen while sawing don't necessarily come from saw cuts.

 

[Philbert]

WOW!

Lots of feedback on an old thread!. Sent rep to those of you that I could.

This is just food for thought while we are on the subject. These are a couple pics of my Chippewa boot that I was wearing when I had a little chainsaw accident.

Thanks for sharing your experience and photos Ductape - glad that you are OK. The other comments reflect this as well, but it shows how one needs a combination of training, technique, equipment maintenance, and personal protective equipment (PPE) to minimize the risk of injury. Relying on just one could lead to unfortunate results.

I like the metatarsal flap not only for additional protection from a stray bar, but for those times when logs shift unpredictably onto one's foot.

Also keep the sawdust out of your laces!

Hank, what do those boots cost?

And who sells them?

However, another thing I forgot to share is boots do not protect you like chaps or trousers do when they have kevlar. The kevlar in a boot is virtually useless, and I feel it lures one into a false sense of security.

You can check out the videos in my post above. I agree that a false sense of security does not replace good work practices. My cutting is personal, or for volunteer work - folks that cut for work may be required to wear chainsaw protective boots meeting accepted test standards by OSHA or other regulations.

I agree 100% with keeping your feet away from where you cut, but as we all know accidents happen, and lots of accidents that happen while sawing don't necessarily come from saw cuts.

Trouble getting those things through the airports?

Philbert

 

[mingo]

I like my huskies they're about 4 years old have a pair of viking calks too I use felt inner soles in both. They are a bit heavy but you get use to it beats having to lace up boots every morning,and I would say they run big.

 

[Hank Chinaski]

Philbert, got em online (lots of places carry them, or any matterhorn/corcoran dealer ought to be able to order them) and fwiw: they're made in the USA.

Havn't tried to wear them thru an airport. I set stuff off anyway. I'd check them