Hutzl MS660 failure ~ 20h

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Sounds good in the cut but it looks like it's slow to come back to idle. If that's the case, try fattening up the low side and reset the idle.
Thanks, I'll put another tank or two through it then tune it to 40:1..I hadn't noticed that though till you pointed it out...cheers! I was trying to make sure it wasn't lean in the cut...my biggest fear!!
 
Thanks, I'll put another tank or two through it then tune it to 40:1..I hadn't noticed that though till you pointed it out...cheers! I was trying to make sure it wasn't lean in the cut...my biggest fear!!
Yep. That's why I like to lift the saw out of the cut and listen for a 4-stroke. I also like to tune rough (factory or below) at wot, then fine tune with my work mix and wood.
 
They do run....:) Whats the "No Load" you have that at? Sounds a bit lean...for a saw headed to someone else I tend to set them up a bit rich. 2600-2800 on the bottom and 12500-12700 on top. While not optimal, they do handle variations in seasons/temps better when your not there to supervise. Most MS660's I see run in the 12800 range after smart "Stihl" types set them up for work. But these are not Stihl's. I personally wouldn't take either saw with as delivered ports past 13,000 unless its one of my "bling" saws.
 
They do run....:) Whats the "No Load" you have that at? Sounds a bit lean...for a saw headed to someone else I tend to set them up a bit rich. 2600-2800 on the bottom and 12500-12700 on top. While not optimal, they do handle variations in seasons/temps better when your not there to supervise. Most MS660's I see run in the 12800 range after smart "Stihl" types set them up for work. But these are not Stihl's. I personally wouldn't take either saw with as delivered ports past 13,000 unless its one of my "bling" saws.

Not sure as I don't have a tach, but tried to make it rich. I'm changing muffler today, as this one has been opened right up, past any gains and all noise. Will be going through another couple of tanks before giving it to its owner..so will be trying again to get it 4 stroking at WOT. Has genuine Walbro carb, the chinese one was horrible, when trying to seat the needles they felt really spongy. The owner of it I'm trying to push into a 661, but he is building a new house currently so no chance..plus a 661 is $2500 here, and this thing is probably at $500. But agree it sounds rich and too fast, but the H screw is out a fair way, any more and it dies when idling, despite adjusting L and idle screw. Its no Stihl to tune, thats for sure. Once I've got it better I'll try to post another vid, its good having other peoples ideas for tuning..cheers
 
Those carbs can be like that. I've put Walbro's on my two saws I use frequently.

BTW to those who watched last year...the "Farmer Jones" and "Cross Preformance" saws I built. Have had both in use by a logger...the Cross Performance blew up today...:( "Farmer Jones 660" has 20 plus more tanks through it than the Cross and is running just fine. He's telling me he would like to keep my "FJ" build and I can have the other one back. I'll get it back next week or so and pick through the rubble to figure out what let go & if this was a ploy to acquire my FJ...:)
 
These saws like the HLiC carbs with a .76 jet. They tune well on it. Give it plenty of love on the power and lubrication side. It looks like everyone on eBay sells them but they don't. Most of them are stolen pics on rotten carbs. If you can find them buy them. Last one I bought was 16$ I bought two extra because I will build again and don't want to look. To important a part.

On that broken piston did you find a complete bearing and the whole circlips and 100% of the fused rings? That is the first failure of that type seen reported. My last one got oem bearing, pin, circlips and an actual coated cylinder with cabers so along with av100 mixing 40:1 and 32:1 and a carb that delivers enough of it to that area I should be golden, should be!
 
Those carbs can be like that. I've put Walbro's on my two saws I use frequently.

BTW to those who watched last year...the "Farmer Jones" and "Cross Preformance" saws I built. Have had both in use by a logger...the Cross Performance blew up today...:( "Farmer Jones 660" has 20 plus more tanks through it than the Cross and is running just fine. He's telling me he would like to keep my "FJ" build and I can have the other one back. I'll get it back next week or so and pick through the rubble to figure out what let go & if this was a ploy to acquire my FJ...:)
Good info. The true test and report. We’re looking forward to the vid... you will make a teardown vid, right? Lol.

These cylinders— I have 4 years on an 036 Hyway. It’s still alive... but, it was the best AM kit that’s come across my bench. Plating, ports, bevels, all good.
 
The one that blew up....rod bearing. Thought at first maybe I was too tight with squish.....pecker piston. Because there was a "ring" from the piston tapping the cylinder, then realized that of course it will smack the top for a revolution or three when the rod bearing adds slop therefore letting the piston go further north.....didn't hurt the piston or cylinder...wow! So thats a testament to the Cross Performance product. I will put them back on another lower end I'm building up ...video will follow at some point
 
Got a chance to test my HO oil pump. From the start when tried it with the bar off I could tell it pumped way more so that was great.
But in my vid I had to stop due to the pump failed. It now barely puts out and the adjustment screw is loose and just flops around. I haven't pulled it yet to take a look at it. I have 2 more so I'm going to get my money back on this one. I've had trouble in the past but I bought this one on eBay so I know I'll atleast get my money back. The saw ran great though and I liked how snappy the throttle felt. I tuned it to 12,8. Very little smoke running 32:1
 
Off doing 562xp builds so won't have time document the MS660's until later. BUT my early speculation on the clutch & drum unfortunately has turned out to be valid. SO the "work" 660's are getting different clutch setups. The Farmer Jones an OEM. The other ones Hyway clutches from HLSupply. Then they head out into the field again....AND the handles...are spaghetti. I have a pile of the Huztl handles, the HLSupply handles ($35) seem to hold up. Also even the shimmed chain adjusters have failed. Back to Slightly shimmed OEM adjusters on all the work saws. The rest of the parts seem to be holding up pretty well. Had a few issues. Out of 12 I have either in the field or used by me I have the one rod bearing failure, the chain adjuster issues, a bar oil pump, a pull start, one top end (plating on a BB). Also swapped in a few Walbro's. Makes a difference. Most of the clutches have been replaced once... Headed into year three! Doing a set of builds with the new 54mm cylinders with finger ports & a few more RPM's. THAT will test the bottom ends a bit. Bottom line? Most of the issues back in 2015 are still area's of concern now...Solvable, but might want to consider blending better parts in those area's if its a working saw..:)
 
The edges of the intake port make me nervous.
Especially that one half of the top of the port, that's on the same side as the broken skirt?
 
Doing a "Chicken **** 2 Chicken Soup" build....taking the one that blew up and another that had damage in shipping, blending the parts with a little "spice". Think it will run? Interesting I took the fly wheel side case half from the one that crapped the crank & put that half one the one where the flywheel side case was damaged in shipping. Took the better cylinder and did as u see.


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