Huztl FarmerTec 070 Build Thread with upgrade info and completed saw
- Thread starter Bedford T
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I looked at the ipl and the mechanism is attached with eclips to the pin. I read what he wrote twice and have trouble understanding it. if the thing came loose you tighten it. if it came loose and if he removed it and said i need to tinker with this because everyone has had trouble with the 660 kit decomp valves? There was a guy that said he needed to do something with his 660 kit cylinder and he was assured it was not necessary and he carried through anyway because that was what he wanted but needed a reason to do it, so he made one.
the ipl shows 2 eclips. it would be helpful to get a second opinion, but the design should not allow it to act like the 660 valve?
the ipl shows 2 eclips. it would be helpful to get a second opinion, but the design should not allow it to act like the 660 valve?
I put the other bar available for the 070 on and it lined up fine. Should have my chains by end of next week. The gray paint is on order to paint the remaining clutch cover and should be here before the chain.
It was my intention to alert as to the possibility that the plunger or valve that is shown in the picture can and will fall into the cylinder if the C clips come loose. In my case the whole assembly came loose leaking until it would not run. As a quick fix the groves on the upper end of the plunger were enlarged to allow for a much more substantial C clip made from a machine washers. Then the C clips were crimped around the upper end of the plunger then tack welded with brass to do every thing possible that they do not come apart. I located several similar designed compression releases that I have not ordered yet so do not know for sure that they will install with out modification. Some Stihls and Huqavarns use a compression release that are inter changeable that I did order and discovered that will not work without much modification. At this moment I am not sure how to or what to modify to make them work. Or they may not work at all. Since they are so easy to order and inexpensive they seemed like a great option. The cylinder would need to be drilled to a larger hole and taped then the top part of the cylinder would need to be recessed to allow the release to go down into the cylinder at least .25" more. Thanks
Boomer 87
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Well i had a failure today with the 070, put it on the mill, apparently the taper lock on the clutch wasnt tight enough and it spun on the crank
. I polished up the crank and its fine but the taper sleeve is galled up, so i ordered another clutch assembly. It was cheap and now ill have a spare clutch. It was hogging wood up until that point.
. I polished up the crank and its fine but the taper sleeve is galled up, so i ordered another clutch assembly. It was cheap and now ill have a spare clutch. It was hogging wood up until that point.
Boomer 87
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I didnt, the clutch it self it fine, its just the tapered sleeve that got biffed, but i got a whole new assembly for 16 bucks shipped. Just a precaution for yall check that the nut is properly tight before milling. Just a little hiccup is all. i had plenty of power.
I took mine off with a air wrench just to see if any of my extra clutches would fit and then put it back on with a air wrench. So I now know that if it slips the problem would be in the design not the amount of torque it has. I would think under saw mill conditions that it will get very warm so not surprised that it sliped a little. Thanks
Boomer 87
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Yeah i have a new clutch, sleeve and washer on the way as we speak. Im gonna put some blue loctite on the crank and lock it down id like to know if theres a torque spec for that, so then i know for sure its good.
The design lends itself to be a little poor, it should have just been threaded on like a normal saw.
The design lends itself to be a little poor, it should have just been threaded on like a normal saw.
boomer you know you can get a manual in the beg section that will have all that info in it. its in the sticky section.
on a general note i got word that my chains had been cut, sharpen and shipped out and would be here around thursday. its rained for days here and it might dry up some by Saturday and maybe i could do some cutting or milling. i have been about as patient as i can stand to be waiting to get this far and then i will go for the upgrades soon, i want to use it a few weeks then go to 090.
on a general note i got word that my chains had been cut, sharpen and shipped out and would be here around thursday. its rained for days here and it might dry up some by Saturday and maybe i could do some cutting or milling. i have been about as patient as i can stand to be waiting to get this far and then i will go for the upgrades soon, i want to use it a few weeks then go to 090.
a suggestion that the piston stop tool they sell will make that easier. the cylinder is so big in this case rope may not be the best way. the stop is quite large.
http://www.huztl.net/Piston-Stop-To...TIHL-1107-191-1201-1107-191-1200-p227568.html
http://www.huztl.net/Piston-Stop-To...TIHL-1107-191-1201-1107-191-1200-p227568.html
Mac&Homelite
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I've seen it before, but my concern was that it would leave a nasty dent in the top of the soft piston. I suppose it wouldn't really matter, but it is a thought. I always feel better with the plastic piston stops.
That is what air wrenches are for. I hate to put any torque on the pistons, unless there are not any options. I take a little more time and stuff contractor string into the plug hole. Either way is probably OK. Thanks
Derf
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I've had some good luck glueing a thick piece of card board (not corrugated soft stuff like a packing box, but hard card stock like for making a gasket) to the end of the metal piston stop so they never mar the piston.
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