Huztl / Farmertec ms 440

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Not saying cranks are the problem but this is interesting If you can understand the guy, He knows his cranks. It's a scooter crank but same idea.
 
I have been able to get a days worth of cutting on mine, I did notice just with t he power head and no bar and chain running it, there was a noticeable vibration but would smooth out higher in the rpms, when you put the bar and chain on it diminishes even more, I only have experience with a ms 441 and the antivibe on that saw is amazing, probably to good, so coming from that, the saw vibrated a lot, but nothing I can't get used to;)
 
When you are trying to help, and folks kinda gang up on ya and say that just not the way it works and ya know in your heart that something is just not right. I am pointing this out only to help those of us with the fat pins. It could be, not that it is.

Here is an article where the wrist pin is involved in balancing by removing grams not ounces from its weight. So you knowlegable guys don't know all you could know either

So I guess one could say I did know what I was talking about and it's at least possible that a big fat wrist pin could alter the balance same as a lighter one could.

http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/vibes.html
 
The wrist pin isn't the problem. A bigger and heavier BB piston doesn't cause this problem, so neither will a slightly heavier wrist pin. I suspect the problem is an out of phase crank.

here is an article that suggests the wrist pin in fact can and does matter and a real fat wrist pin like the ones that come in this kit could possibly impact the vibration. so your dismissive remarks are incorrect, this is not unknown to people who do more than remove and replace oem parts. i guess this indicates your post was wrong about wrist pins and balance.

http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/vibes.html
 
OEM Stihl pin is also very slightly tapered at the ends to push the circlips down in the groove.
It is lighter than Farmertec, NWP and Meteor pins, a difference of grams not ounces :)
Is the flywheel set perfectly square on the tapered crankshaft?
This probably wouldn't happen on this model but I have seen a poorly cast captured key cause the flywheel to be seated improperly, vibrated like mad for a second or so till it sheared.
My .02 is on a bad flywheel or crank


here you go, grams do matter
http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/vibes.html
 
Go ahead, swap out your wrist pin, even install one made of titanium if you want, and then report back.

When you're done with that, explain to us how Stihl uses the same saw for both the MS650 and MS660.

How about the Dolmar 6400, 7300, and 7900. Again, these saws are identical with the exception of a huge variance in topend size.

How about a Stihl 064 with an 066 topend? Or, how about my 440 with a 460 topend turning nearly 16,000 RPMs?

Get the point.yet, or do you need more? Let me guess....
 
I got the point I was hoping you would. The whole point has been made. I can not make it any clearer. From the start I said this is from left field, seeking possibilities that were in our control. Actual possibilities. It's not even certain it's a wide spread issue. I took exception to you saying it had no bearing in the scope of vibration.

If we focus on the problem everybody wins. I said your suggestions were possible you did not afford me the same courtesy. I supplied an article that was inclusive of the pin.
 
Go ahead, swap out your wrist pin, even install one made of titanium if you want, and then report back.

When you're done with that, explain to us how Stihl uses the same saw for both the MS650 and MS660.

How about the Dolmar 6400, 7300, and 7900. Again, these saws are identical with the exception of a huge variance in topend size.

How about a Stihl 064 with an 066 topend? Or, how about my 440 with a 460 topend turning nearly 16,000 RPMs?

Get the point.yet, or do you need more? Let me guess....
I answered this above
 
Bedford T, I don't know what you're deal is, but you're out of your element. You knew nothing about saws a VERY short time ago. You couldn't even get your own saws running. Many of us tried to help you then, and met the same resistance we are here and now. You come in here acting like no one else knows what they're talking about. You then think you're ready to start telling others how to build saws, giving erroneous instruction, and refuse to backup when it's pointed out.
 
I backed it up. I gave you a link on the wrist pin. I did get the 660 saw running. It was a broken piece of cylinder that caused the problem. I posted all this. You are just looking to cause trouble.

I learned that you in particular are set In His ways and has limited experience with aftermarket parts and you think in terms of OEM parts and the wrist pin is a good example. Or the time you said you did not recommend putting the case in an oven. You are out of your elements in these threads
 
I backed it up. I gave you a link on the wrist pin. I did get the 660 saw running. It was a broken piece of cylinder that caused the problem. I posted all this. You are just looking to cause trouble.

I learned that you in particular are set In His ways and has limited experience with aftermarket parts and you think in terms of OEM parts and the wrist pin is a good example. Or the time you said you did not recommend putting the case in an oven. You are out of your elements in these threads
Really?

This has NOTHING to do with OEM vs AM in this case, demonstrating that you have no idea what you're talking about, again. And what do you know about my experience with AM parts anyway. I've been there and done that. Just like others with more experience than yourself, you may come to understand and appreciate why we have the opinions we do. Until then, you need to set back and learn before you start trying to school us.

I'm not trying to cause trouble at all. I'm trying to protect others from your misinformation. You refuse to acknowledge practical experience and knowledge gained through years of working on these things. From the very beginning of your time here, you have been obstinate and resistant to any instruction that even hinted of disagreeing with you.
 
This is getting to be a heated discussion, the way i see this form is a way to gain information whether it is not exactly accurate is part of the internet, everything said on the internet isn't always true or accurate, how ever forming a reputation and having known knowledge is always a plus when considering suggestions from members, I love how we can get many suggestions, and that is the word i use when i read responses to questions, this is America you do what you want but using the form as a source of information and suggestions is always been a great asset, at least for me ;)
 
...your dismissive remarks are incorrect... i guess this indicates your post was wrong about wrist pins and balance.
This is why I respond to you like I do. You repeatedly choose to ignore practical experience and years of building these saws, with both AM and OEM parts, and then either flat out tell us we're wrong, or continue to try and lead others in the wrong direction.
 
How about pie? Apple or cherry would be just fine! Or, how about a mix!

pie.jpg
 

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