Huztl MS 440 Initial Impressions, and Build

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Here comes some reviews, I went through and reviewed some of the Huztl products that come in the kit. I will be using the school grading system, such as,
a+ might as well be OEM
a being considered OEM
b+ great quality and fitment

again this is initial impressions and feel, the grades include cosmetic appeal, sturdiness in the hand and overall appeal. I have not even run the saw yet so i can't say anything about reliability, but this is what i could do with what i got so far.

Recoil Start Assembly
a
Feels solid in the hand, and the action feels smooth and precise, no wobble or weird noises. The casting feels great and is smooth. Definitely a worth wild part.
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Over sized Clutch Cover
A
Feels good in the hand and seems thicker than OEM, For the price you cant beat it. I would highly recommend this!
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CrankCase
b+
I found it to be great quality and fitment of everything was good, there were a few rough edges and the final finish of it wasn't 100% perfect but overall good, I would buy another one without hesitation. It feels good and solid in the hand and doesn't seem cheap.
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Plastic
A+
I can't believe how good of quality these things are, if you gave me OEM and these i couldn't tell the difference, they feel rigid enough to hold shape but are flexible enough to not just crack. I feels great in the hand and flexes nicely without cracking or splitting. Great!!
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3/4 wrap Handle Bar
b
I found it to feel great in the hand and i believe it is made of 1/16 steel. I could not bend it with all my strength with my two hands so dropping it or laying it down should not be a problem, Rubber feels nice and sturdy. The fitment was less to be desired but it may even out once everything is togeather. The fitment didn't cause issues and would work just fine, it just didn't sit in the grove very well.
 

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3/4 wrap Handle Bar
b
I found it to feel great in the hand and i believe it is made of 1/16 steel. I could not bend it with all my strength with my two hands so dropping it or laying it down should not be a problem, Rubber feels nice and sturdy. The fitment was less to be desired but it may even out once everything is togeather. The fitment didn't cause issues and would work just fine, it just didn't sit in the groove very well.
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1/2 wrap Handle Bar
A
This was much better fit than the 3/4 probably because when they mock up the 3/4 the more welding and angles through everything off, but the 1/2 feels great and i would highly recommend it.
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The Muffler
A+
It is already gutted and is made very well, I could not think of anything that could go wrong, very solid feeling and is already dual ported ready to rip, highly recommend it!
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Air Filter
B+
Feels good, not OEM but enough to get the job done, and for the price astounding . I already have another coming for back up, i think it was 2$. Feels good in the hand and has a solid feel.
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Rubber pieces
A
As for long term reliability, I don't know, but for now they feel great, and for the fuel line,impulse line, they feel like they are made of quality rubber and the AV buffers feel good as well, I would buy again. They do have a little cosmetic blemishes but don't affect anything.
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Piston and Cylinder
B+
Obviously i have changed a few things but the way it came i would think it would have ran okay, the cylinder feels like it is good quality and the piston is surprisingly solid feeling. I have no clue to long term longevity but for now i am slightly impressed.
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Felling Spikes
A+
When mounted on the saw you just can't go wrong, definitely overkill for where i am at and the trees i am cutting but for the little change i paid for them, everyone should buy a set. Feels super solid and no flex when mounted on the saw!!
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I hope this helps, I will be doing a little more reviews when i get her running tomorrow afternoon, I hope she fires up and runs good.
Good info. Two things, a comment and a question. 1, there is no spark arrestor in the muffler which is a killer for those of us who contend with tinder dry land and fear fire. 2, it sounds like the rubber making up the throttle manifold was pretty good. I had the opposite reaction to a manifold for the MS200T. It was overly stiff and poorly proportioned, enough so as to be unusable.
 
They sell the screen on eBay. Screen-type spark arrestor of 0.023" mesh or less, qualified under US Forest Service standards.

I got a 4.5x4.5in. sheet
 
And there is the OEM muffler with all sorts of restrictions. The screen is for someone who needs to cut in us forest and worries. I bought to keep sticks and debris out of the hole I am going to create in a 029 muffler.

if you want an AM with a screen, they got it <10$
www.huztl.net
Item #: PJ44005A
1128-145-0803
 
I made a Excel spreadsheet that converts piston distance from squish band to degrees of crank rotation. It works for any saw. Enter stroke, connecting rod length, squish. It has a column that shows the distance from the squish band and another column that shows the rotation degrees. It is as accurate as you can measure the port differences from the squish. It has other information that is interesting like displacement, rate of displacement and other useless stuff. I have one setup for a 660 and the 440. I do need an actual connecting rod length for a 440.

I don't know how to post an Excel file but I if some tells me how I will post it.
I still don't know how to upload an Excel file but here is a PDF version. It is as accurate as you can measure distances from the squish band at the top of the cylinder.
The "From top of cylinder" is a measurement from the squish band to the top of the piston. The table assumes 0.000" squish so you will have to add your actual squish measurement.
I sort of measured the connector arm at 60mm. If someone has a more accurate measurement let me know. If it is a little off it won't make a big difference in the numbers.

1. Measure from squish band to the top of the exhaust port in mm.
2. Add the squish measurement for your saw in mm to the number from 1. above. (Multiply your squish in mils by 0.0254 to get mm. Example : 39.5 mils X .0254 = 1.00mm)
3. Find a close number in the " From top of Cylinder" column.
4. Read the degrees in the first column. That is the exhaust port open timing.

The top and bottom of the other ports can be found in a similar way.

The other columns in the table aren't as meaningful.
 

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host it and share it for a couple weeks. Like a Dropbox or Drive. Put your link in here. It will spread
 
This (Huztl) is an absolute gold mine

Had no idea it existed

:clap:
I used to be happy with my Husky 455 and old Partner saws. Not no more! Now inexpensive rebuilds are possible not to mention the complete parts saws in a box.
 
Thanks - tried that already. It's the spring. Also, with the plate off, I gave the choke shaft one revolution to tighten the return spring, but that made it too tight (as in too much return spring force) for the master switch to fully close the choke. We'll see what a new carb will do to help.

Try holding the choke closed and loosen the butterfly screw then retighten. Might be binding
 
So the parts I have had to order;

  • Throttle Rod - was MIA from the box.
  • Carb - choke plate return spring too weak
  • Chain adjuster assembly - the one in the box was just too "cheap feeling" for me
  • Chain brake tension spring - the one in the box had the rear anchor hook manufactured incorrectly - not usable. Plus the coil diameters were too large to fit in the recess in the case. I think it might have been made for another saw.
  • Piston pin circlips - the provided ones were crap, as the steel they were made from just bent on attempted installation - don't use them - get some 12x1 circlips from your dealer. Mine were 40 cents apiece.

For anyone thinking of getting the kit - I would do it again. Some of it took some serious thinking about how it should go together and in what order the parts should be installed. The IPL and a micrometer were invaluable for getting the right length screws in the right places. Having an 036 nearby helped with how to route wiring.

It was a great big-boy jigsaw puzzle. Once I get my new parts, we'll see if I can get her started. I am a bit worried, as the tested compression with assembly oil on the rings was only 100 PSI, but the real proof will be when she starts.
 
Finally, i was able to build up the saw tonight, I got in contact with Huztl and they normally get back to you in 1 to 1.5 days. They were very concerned that i got wrong or missing parts and were adamant about replacing those parts, they are in the mail as we speak. I had almost all the same problems as dwensen, with the chain brake spring being the wrong size, and the piston circlips being for a 10mm pin, and for my chain adjuster is definitely feels like crap but seems to work okay, i will run it till it brakes.
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I was pleasantly surprised to find this,


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as for something i am not proud of, I forgot to tighten the flywheel nut and when i went to start it for the first time, by the way the thing roared to life like a well-oiled machine, no excessive amount of pulls or anything, i have yet to tune the saw due to the fact that when i didn't tighten the flywheel i heard a big cracking sound and all of a sudden i pull the cord and there is no resistance, the first thing i am thinking is i just snapped a crank within 10 seconds of the first fire up. It was the flywheel key due to the loose flywheel nut. So i just torqued the flywheel on and good to go. Makes advancing timing a breeze.



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By the way, I have a 25" bar and chain coming on Wednesday in the mail to finish off the build, If anyone was wondering Total price into the build including bar and chain,
450$, Not bad!!
 
Photos of my 440 built with brake spring installed.
Do you think you can send some pictures with measurements on a ruler or something in the back ground so I can see, huztl asked me to send the measurements of a spring that worked. Thanks
 

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