Huztl MS660

[Kostas]

@weimedog yes I tried and it pinched and deformed. Now that I am an "expert" at removing preinstalled seals I would say on clutch side pinching is likely to happen.

I was not apologizing to the guy, I was looking at the page count like he. several pages devoted to just getting on the site, or getting them to communicate both unfortunate. It's not a race for me and I might come in last, so what. It's the journey. Most are already yawning.

The guy that made the first hurdle has yet to show us. I documented parts, fasteners, issues. I would love to "see" progress.

I did find a retired Stihl tech who said he could pull crank in for me and he said in the same breath I walking out the door for a 10 day vacation call me the week of the 25th.

So I have had to adjust my expectations that have certainly flirted with disappointment.. I will get there and it will be so sweet.

I wish I could film it all, it's not working out that way. Taking pics is best I can do for the build process.

I don't know for this particular saw but how difficult is to push the crankshaft in the bearings?I am not try to play the expert but 2 hours ago i was messing with an Efco Stark 42 string trimmer.I was able to push down the crankshaft in the bearing with my bare hands,then i pushed the crank in the other bearing,a couple hits and the screws did the rest of the job.I was very anxious with all the things i read and i couldn't believe how easy it was.Someone sayed something about a 20 tons press,for a chainsaw crankshaft?No offence guys but..........If you put the crankshaft in the freezer,i bet it will go in the bearing very easy without the use of heat.

 

[davhul]

It does take some skills and ability to adapt & innovate at times. The thing that also has to be entered into the discussion....the resultant saw isn't for a novice either! Big Heavy Powerful saws when done.

That's very true. We have people all the time that have no business running a saw. We try to educate them but some is no hope. I would like to say first if you can't start it you might not should run it.

 

[trboxman]

No offense taken. I have a 20ton press, so I used a 20ton press. If you don't have one, don't buy one to do this job. Candidly I think this could be done with a puller for the PTO side and then use the case screws to pull it all together on the flywheel side, a couple of whacks with a hammer and brass punch to even up the side clearance and you're done.

 

[davhul]

I'll have to say watching weimedog's YouTube channel is what sealed the deal on ordering a kit. It looks like of decent quality and give me something to do for a few hours in the coming weeks

 

[trboxman]

There will be several folks on my Christmas list get a nice big surprise this year...

 

[weimedog]

That's very true. We have people all the time that have no business running a saw. We try to educate them but some is no hope. I would like to say first if you can't start it you might not should run it.

That's the same with any skill ..there are those just not hardwired to tackle that type of thing...of course the other side is there are some who never knew that had the talent....and things like this opens that door.

 

[Bedford T]

thanks for joining in

I ordered the 660 kit yesterday myself. I'm a stihl tech and I was interested how the quality is on this $240 saw in a box. So what the heck.
I plan on putting the case together with my stihl case splitter-installer. The Stihl tool makes it easy to pull the crank through the halfs as that's the only way I've done it and only takes 15 min. I'm going to do it at my shop at home I'm sure Stihl probably wouldn't like it. They were talking about the stihl clones at the gold class in Virginia Beach I went to the and people selling them out of the trunk of their car. I can't see that being the case as it take someone with a little know how to put them together. When I do finally get the saw I'll post pics of it going together. .

 

[Bedford T]

i was just happy to see the halfs joined, that was nice and encouraging.

A few pics. I don't document these things like a helecoper mom on a family vacation so there's lots of stuff not pictured.

 

[Bedford T]

i got a whole week ahead of me to make some magic happen. i am thinking and trying for example i called auto stores for tool rentals looking for 1 7/8 sockets they had only 1 1/8, i will call other shops and stihl dealers in surrounding areas. i had compound problems last week like the seal this week the next step is replacing the gasket since no one said a tore gasket was safe to use and put the case together. putting that seal in does not seam like a problem, not that one anyway it has a skirt on it. manual says to push it in place.

Even the stihl service manual talks about heating the cases and my tech recommended it, so i looked in my stash and found this gloves that are used in handling hot things so i can accurately place a hot half and a cold half. The future is bright for my saw just gotta keep it up.

An interesting note the gasket was only torn on the outside the location pin and with the yamabond i am safe to push them together

Why not Stick them together w/o the seals and see if definitive Dave has a seal driver & if your local dealer has the gaskets and seals. Of course the other option for those who feel nervous about that operation...they sell short block 660s cheap on ebay

 

[trboxman]

Time for some "lessons learned so far".

Be meticulous in making sure that all of those little bags are empty. I just had to recycle can dive to retrieve that little tiny screw that holds the bar side plate on to the case. It's the same screw that holds the chain tensioner in place. Also the tensioner seems quite passable with a dab of grease on the pinion gears and the screw slider. Work it back three or four times and it smooths right out (probably chewing itself up but what the heck).

A generous amount of aerosol hairspray on the AV buffers make them slide in easy peasy.

Definitive Dave is going to love me 'cause I went ahead an ordered the Stihl case splitter/installer tools for both the PTO and flywheel side. I justified it to myself as it'll make building several as Christmas presents go faster. I think I'll still fab up some homemade tools to do the same job, but....

 

[davhul]

This is the tool the dealer should have to split and install the case halfs. When I went to the gold class in Virginia Beach they pulled some ms660 rejects off the assembly line and had them lazer engraved for us. They have to be within 4 microns to spec or their rejected.

 

[davhul]

Sorry here's the pic

 

[Bedford T]

what do they charge for doing it?

 

[trboxman]

Sorry here's the pic

Yep, that's what I just ordered.

 

[davhul]

Did you get both? If you don't mine me asking how much were they. I tried looking them up in the price book but it doesn't list a price. I want to say they were over a 100 each. I was just curious

 

[trboxman]

I got both. Search on Ebay, the prices are high, more than double your guess...each...

Yes, I'm spending too much money. Yes, I do this when I decide to "get into" something. This will be the first time that the purchase of tools don't pay for themselves avoiding paying someone else to do something that I could do with the proper tools.

 

[davhul]

Did the ones you ordered come with the sleeves that screw on the crank for reassembly? The one I seen on eBay didn't. But the one I seen was used

 

[MustangMike]

How do these things run compared to an OEM 660?

Is the big bore kit worth it?

Anyone got some real hours on one and know if they will stand up to milling?

 

[davhul]

what do they charge for doing it?

If you brought a complete saw in that needed the case split for a gasket,or bearings it would be $130 labor. That's by the book. And that's if nothing else was wrong you also get a pressure vacc test afterward. But if you just brought the case in not much. I doubt any stihl dealer would touch one of these saws unless you knew them personally.

 

[Bedford T]

thats basically what happened, he said he did not have the tool.

i just spoke with the guy where he bought the tool and he says the tool for pulling a crankcase together is actually the oem crankcase splitters and the pair cost close to $500 but that does not include the closure tool and he doe not sell that, if i read it correctly.
so ouch.

If you brought a complete saw in that needed the case split for a gasket,or bearings it would be $130 labor. That's by the book. And that's if nothing else was wrong you also get a pressure vacc test afterward. But if you just brought the case in not much. I doubt any stihl dealer would touch one of these saws unless you knew them personally.