Huztl MS660

[IQRaceworks]

Man....I really want to order one of the 660 kits and put a big 30" bar on the thing.......but I know it would end up setting on the shelf most of the time.....and probably wouldn't ever get used...ever. My little modded Poulan Wild Thing cuts firewood just fine....and that's really all I need.

Are there any of the smaller "Stihl Copy" saw kits from Huztl that would suit me better.....something I could use to fell small trees and can firewood? I don't need a 660 with 30" bar to cut 8" diameter firewood logs.......I need something light, easy to handle, and something that cuts fast with a smaller 16"-18" bar on it. Even the biggest cedars on my properly are only 12" diameter.

 

[Probablywillforget]

You'd probably be happy with an 036/360 kit. 60cc saw that isn't too heavy.

 

[TimTaylor]

They make an ms250 kit now, I don't know what the quality is like but even the real Stihl 250 isn't a pro saw, so what about a 368 husky? The kit is good quality and the saw is a beast. Maybe a bit bigger than you need, but not that much.

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk

 

[TimTaylor]

Or 440 Stihl. I had problems with my kit but once it is sorted its a nice firewood saw


Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk

 

[dswensen]

They make an ms250 kit now, I don't know what the quality is like but even the real Stihl 250 isn't a pro saw, so what about a 368 husky? The kit is good quality and the saw is a beast. Maybe a bit bigger than you need, but not that much.

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk

I have not built a 250, but the reviews of that kit have been very mixed. Personally, I have built three kits, and the 360 kit was a good one to build. I really like the saw - time will tell if it has any durability. It's definitely not a Stihl quality-wise, but I definitely didn't pay Stihl prices either.

 

[Bedford T]

Second on the ms440 kit. Light to me. Powerful. You can upgrade the cylinder. Mine has a few small oem parts.

 

[davhul]

I've thought about another 440 kit also and get the 460 topend. But I still have another 660 kit sitting here in the box I need to assemble So maybe later. If you change your mind on a 660 it'll run a 36 ok. Phone died mid cut
And 440 ran good also.

 

[davhul]

Here's a little Stihl 250.

 

[Hydro74]

I've have built a few farmertec ms250 the rotor for the recoil is junk they break over and over I put a oem Stihl one on em now no problems they actually run pretty well all considering. Built the 440 kit with big bore kit on it and got the squish down to .021 with no base gasket it pulls a 28" bar no problem


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bedford T]

I've have built a few farmertec ms250 the rotor for the recoil is junk they break over and over I put a oem Stihl one on em now no problems they actually run pretty well all considering. Built the 440 kit with big bore kit on it and got the squish down to .021 with no base gasket it pulls a 28" bar no problem


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The rotor can be a weak point on the 660 as well. Oem now Everytime. I got a 250 kit I am ready to reassemble. I will grab a rotor now

 

[Hydro74]

The hyway rotors for the 660's seem to last longer than the farmertecs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JLwoodturning]

I was pulling the factory oil seals out and accidentally put a couple nicks in the case on flywheel side. Before I put the new little oil seal in, would it be okay to put a little coating of Permatex copper on the outer seal edge? Or is there usually bad to do?

 

[Bedford T]

I was pulling the factory oil seals out and accidentally put a couple nicks in the case on flywheel side. Before I put the new little oil seal in, would it be okay to put a little coating of Permatex copper on the outer seal edge? Or is there usually bad to do?

You should put some dirko or something similar along the outer edge

 

[JLwoodturning]

I have Permatex Ultra Copper Maximum Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker. Is that similar to Dirko?

 

[Bedford T]

I have Permatex Ultra Copper Maximum Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker. Is that similar to Dirko?

?. Google is your buddy here on that aspect. I have never used your stuff. Sorry. Might be better. Just don't know.

 

[JLwoodturning]

cool no worries, thanks for the help

 

[YajReizarb]

Hey:

I'll start with a quick thanks to everyone who contributed valuable know-how and intel in this thread.

I had zero background working on small gas engines - but figured that assembling a saw would be a great way to learn, and I'd wind up with something I could put to use in a milling project that I stumbled into. Anyhow - I bought the kit, along with around a dozen OEM parts and got a few tanks through the saw before it went stone-cold dead on me. The compression was so low that the decomp valve stayed open when I tried to pull start it multiple times, and I heard a sound that sounded roughly like the jingling of keys coming from inside the engine.

When I got it out of the woods, I found that the compression had dropped from 150+ to ~60, and after pulling off the muffler I couldn't detect any scoring on the piston, the rings looked fine - etc. I should have conducted a pressure test at that point (doh!) but instead I pulled off the top end. The piston, rings, cylinder, etc all looked good - but I noticed that there was a *lot* of play in the rod, and that I could move the rod back and forth several mm at the junction of the crank and the rod. I don't remember being able to do that prior to assembling the saw, so it's starting to dawn on me that I probably fried the rod bearing. If that's the case (any input on that point would be welcomed) it looks like I'll be learning how to split the case, remove the crank bearings, etc. Short of the saw exploding - that seems like the most costly and labor-intensive failure to fix. I'd like to avoid a repeat of that failure - so could anyone recommend a replacement crank/rod assembly that's likely to be better than the one that came with the kit, but less expensive than OEM?

In the meantime I picked up an almost-new 661c that I'll re-sell as soon as I'm done with the milling project, so I'm not in a hurry to get the kit-saw going again, but I'd like to turn it into something more reliable than I wound up with after the first build, so I don't mind spending the money on decent parts.

Thanks in advance.

-Jay

 

[Dieseldash]

Sounds like the rod bearing failed. You'll need a new crank. Bummer. I thought I heard a report of someone else having a rod bearing fail on here.

 

[TimTaylor]

Yes I had that fun.
I have learned a bit fixing it though.
I don't blame Farmertec at all actually. I accept that I caused it and here is the reasoning.
It was my first kit build.
I didn't check to see if the con rod was central to the bore and I'm sure it wasn't.
I made mistakes measuring the squish and I tried to get it too small for the quality of the cylinder casting which is good but not perfect.
And I didn't run it in properly, remembering that the bearings need time to bed in and polish up because unlike expensive bearings that isn't done at manufacture.
With these things in mind my second crank is much older than the first and my trust in the saw is coming back, slowly

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk

 

[YajReizarb]

Is there anything that you need to do to insure that the connecting rod is central to the bore other than making sure that the crank is centered? When I put mine together, the difference between the width of the crank and the opening in the case was ~70 thousandths, so I positioned the crank so that I had 35 thousandths on each side and called it good. Is there something else that I should have done there?

I went ahead and picked up an NWP crank - which was priced about 3X higher than the most inexpensive stuff on e-bay and 3X lower than OEM - so hopefully that'll translate into a normal working life.